Torque Wrench

[JackG]

The beam type have an additional advantage... they allow you to sneak up on the torque you are trying to achieve. That is especially important when working with aluminum.

[KRZTACO]

Well, for torquing rims or general stuff you can't go wrong with a craftsman or Snap-On (more expensive, better quality).

If your rebuilding motors then one torque wrench will cost $5,000.

KRZ

[Ronzi]

'But, the best is still the old Beam Type...'

Interesting. Do you mean the type that has a graduated plate with a pointer??

Many years ago when I bought my first torque wrench I went to the Snap On shop and asked for one of those. The guy behind the counter sneered and said "We sell torque wrenches, not guessers."
I was effectively put in my place and ultimately bought a Snap On 150 lb/ft dial type wrench for $65, a pretty good pile of money for a torque wrench in those days.

As for $5,000 for a torque wrench, a hell of a lot of engines have been rebuilt using wrenches that cost a lot less then that. A commercial rebuilding shop might be able to justify such a device, but I bet the reason for using it has more to do with repeatibility and durability over thousands of operations than strictly accuracy.

[MNBoxster]

Originally Posted by Ronzi

'But, the best is still the old Beam Type...'

Interesting. Do you mean the type that has a graduated plate with a pointer??

Many years ago when I bought my first torque wrench I went to the Snap On shop and asked for one of those. The guy behind the counter sneered and said "We sell torque wrenches, not guessers."
I was effectively put in my place and ultimately bought a Snap On 150 lb/ft dial type wrench for $65, a pretty good pile of money for a torque wrench in those days.

As for $5,000 for a torque wrench, a hell of a lot of engines have been rebuilt using wrenches that cost a lot less then that. A commercial rebuilding shop might be able to justify such a device, but I bet the reason for using it has more to do with repeatibility and durability over thousands of operations than strictly accuracy.

Hi,

A Beam Type wrench uses Physics as opposed to Engineering in the mechanical Dial or Click Type. It is the most accurate, but does require the user to properly read the scale, which is where the guessing you mentioned comes into play. There are many things which can fail in the mechanical types which the Beam is immune to, it relies on simple, known deflection.

In truth, there are so many variables, including the ambeient temperature, whether or not you're using an extension, etc. that Accuracy is really more of a concept than a reality. But, the Beam Type has fewer variables which must be correct to achieve an accurate torque.

With better machining tolerances in today's manufacturing, the trend is to rely less on a Torque Value in favor of a Torque Angle Value. This takes into account the material used, the size and pitch of the threads and results in a tighter tolerance when torquing a Fastener. A Torque Angle Meter is a simple tool similar in simplicity to a Beam Type Wrench. You use a Torque Wrench to achieve maybe 3/4 of the spec and then continue to rotate the Fastener an additional specified Angle to achieve the proper tightening...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

[Keddie]

MNBoxster:

What is your opinion on digital torque wrenches? How do they compare to beam?

Thanks for everyone's input. I really appreciate it.

Keddie

[MNBoxster]

Originally Posted by Keddie

MNBoxster:

What is your opinion on digital torque wrenches? How do they compare to beam?

Thanks for everyone's input. I really appreciate it.

Keddie

Hi,

All can be very good. But, the Beam Type is the simplest, so less to go wrong and more accurate readings.

The digitals have a complex mechanism which converts the mechanical torque into an electrical signal and subsequently an LCD Readout. I guess that the cheap ones won't match the accuracy and longevity of the more expensive ones. They are all bound to be relatively fragile because of the sensitive electronics they contain.

The important thing is to keep it calibrated and don't play rough with them, keep them away from heat and humidity and it'll probably serve the DIYer well...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

[TriGem2k]

I have the Split Beam one from TireRack.com....$249.

[MNBoxster]

Originally Posted by JackG

The beam type have an additional advantage... they allow you to sneak up on the torque you are trying to achieve. That is especially important when working with aluminum.

Hi,

You're quite correct. But, if using a Click Type, you should ALWAYS torque a Fastener in 3 steps of 1/3, 3/4 and then the Final Torque Spec. This allows the Fastener to relax between settings and allows the Wrench to work through a broader range. Both will insure greater accuracy.

Also remember, unless specified, all torque settings assume a Dry Thread. Threaded Fasteners work by stretching a pre-determined amount and there is a significant amount of friction between the threads to be overcome. If you use any type of agent on the threads - Lok-Tite, Thread Lube, Teflon Tape, or even if it's just greasy, you need to lower the torque value by 50% or you will be overtightening the Fastener, because you've eliminated the friction which the torque spec allows for.

This is a general rule, but if you don't reduce the torque when using an agent on the threads, you will either Shear, Strip or Stretch the Fastener, or worse, strip the Tap, especially if the part is Aluminum. Hope this helps...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99