rear suspension noise over tar strips
 

I'm hoping this is a quick question. My car drives quite solidly with no vibrations to speak of and no rattles, er, except one.

When I'm at 25-ish on a street with heavy tar strips I get a noise right behind me - literally behind and to the left of my chest (left hand drive car).

I did a search on this forum and found it could be a few things but seems likely it is a Track Arm.

In doing a search on ebay I find a piece called a Link Track Arm
Porsche 986 Boxster 97 04 Rear Suspension Control Arm Link Track Arm 98633114304 | eBay

and a Track Rod Link
997 331 045 04 245 03 Porsche Cayman Boxster 987 Rear Suspension Track Rod Link | eBay

Now, blindly I could order the Link Track Arm but just want to make sure it is a link which transmits load to a position up behind my back.

Also, is it required to purchase the entire link rather than press new bushings into the existing casting?

Before you buy anything, get your car up in the air and get under it and inspect everything. Pull, push, prod, poke, and you'll eventually find the culprit.

Trying to decide what part to replace based on the noise alone is not likely to identify the correct part (unless you are already an expert mechanic or you're really, really lucky).

Tag
 

I want to follow this

Here is where your problem is:

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1407471617.jpg

Replace this arm and problem solved.

My experience when my Boxster was up and off the ground and inspecting all the joints, I could not make this arm rattle or make any loose noise when grabbing and twisting it.

ALignment
 

I recently had a 4 wheel alignment, if I replace that would a realignment be necessary ?

I have a similar noise on the passenger side.

If you can get away with not disconnecting the three point arm to which this trailing arm connects (it's the one with the ball joint at the hub and the alignment setting bolt at the frame you can get away without an alignment.

BTW, this is definitely a DIY job to swap this out, but be patient, it fits into each end very tightly and will not be the easiest thing you've done. I had to give up, drink a beer, and come back and give it another go before I figured out which end should go on first and eventually get it done.

Thanks
 

I learned a long time ago that when working on a project if you start talking about it's Mother to walk away and give your brain and your patience a break. I recently did this on my secondary Cat job.

Question can the bushing be replaced or is a replace the entire arm....and if doing one should both be replaced at the same time ?

Replace both trailing arms.

OEM ones from TRW are available from Pelican Parts:

Porsche Boxster (1997-2004) - Suspension, Shocks & Springs - Page 3

Rebuilt ones with polyurethane bushings are available from Vertex Auto (with core exchange).

I went with the TRW ones.

Just sayin'...........

TO

Thanks for the picture Jager, it makes the thread easy to follow.

Somebody is rebuilding these with poly bushings?? WTF?? LOL Next time I'm through Vertex area? I'll be sure to stop in a smack them in the side of the head.

The arm they are *rebuilding*?? Has a FRIGGIN MONOBALL in it from the factory!! Why in the hell would you go Urethane?? LOL

Yes, these are wearing out. Yes, this is the problem.

Yes you can swap these out without changing the alignment. I do these at the track in 10min per side with the under tray ON. :)

Wow Brad
 

If you were closer I would buy you a case of Beer to help me :cheers:

I appreciate the info, definitely a job to do before winter. I get a little noise on a gravel road from the passenger side only....but they are both the same age so both it will be.

I went to the Vertex site and ...WOW...3.6 rebuilt engines ........hhmmmm one day maybe. I didn't see nay rebuilt arms however ??

Thanks for all the great information everyone.

Sincerely
Dwight

I'd end up taking 3/4 of the case home!!

It's two bolts!! One in the front at the tub and one at the back in the control arm.

The one at the control arm has some serious torque on it. I use a breaker bar to bust it loose (or a Snap On 18V gun depending on how high I put the car in the air)

Easiest method for the front bolt is to take down the undertray, but it can be done with it in place. The drivers side is tough because the power steering lines are in the way. Start with the passenger side arm. You'll get a feel in open space on how to handle the drivers side with the lines in the way.

Buy the TRW arms.. NEW. They are $170x2

Part Number: Part # 987 331 043 02

Part number
 

Here is anew on on ebay

Porsche 986 996 Control Arm Link Front Rear Lower Carrera Turbo | eBay

says brand new TRW but the part # does not match

Here they are:

Porsche Boxster Rebuilt Upgraded Rear Track Control Arm Only $149 | eBay

The OEM number is: 986-331-043-07

TO

Better
 

So are the urethane ones that are rebuilt better than the TRW OEM ones ??

How would urethane be better than a monoball? :) You want STOCK pieces.. not rebuilt.

and you **WANT** the 987 pieces.. trust me. I gave you the correct part number. You will thank me the first time you drive the car.

TeamOx? You work for Pelican?

Might double check to see if these are equivalent?;

http://www.****************************************.com/Part-Number/Control-Arm-Link-__99733104301_TRW_2B69CDA3.aspx

substitute **************************************** for all those Astrix-es

substitute romeo mike easy uniform romeo oscar papa easy alpha november for all those astrixes

Geez...........I'm just commenting on my own personal experience with replacing the rear trailing arms of my 986.

I offered two options that I had personally considered; the OEM TRW arms and the rebuilt Vertez arms. I chose the TRW arms, and yes , I admit it...............I bought them from Pelican!

And no, I don't work for Pelican; in fact I work for no one now. Feels good, too. :)

Just sayin'...........

TO

Yep, that's the fix. Theres also a way to repair the bushing. It involves essentially knurling the bushing housing into the control arm. I don't have the link, but it's either here or on rennlist.

Keep me away from people who are doing that.. LOL OMG.. *really*?? If you cannot afford to repair these cars properly? Then sell it. "When, not IF" the monoball comes loose again in the arm?? you now end up with CRAZY rear wheel steering *probably* putting you in a ditch..

Replace the arms with factory OE parts (Pankl supplied them to Porsche, TRW MADE them for Pankl)

...not to mention you'd need a lathe, knurling tool and a hydraulic press ....

Looks like an inventive way to help a deteriorating situation
 

HOwever I am just going to buy new parts and replace...that way I can cross that off my list for quite a while.

Dwight

Dang,
Thanks for all the replies and discussion.

Going with the 987 links sounds like a no brainer.

Brad

what is the difference between the 986 and 987 part??

there's other posts that indicate that the swaybar drop link may also make rattling noise at low speeds.
I cheaped out and replaced all the drop links. did not solve the problem
replaced the lower control arms and no more noise. went with TRW parts. that was 30K miles ago My car is my daily drive so no heavy driving, and when it comes to suspension/drivetrain parts, I always go with original or oem parts - not a voting contest and an amateur weekend mechanic at best, but I'm aligned with Brad's comments.

The 987 is a TRW part, it is an OEM part...who do you think makes Porsche's

It on Renntech. Under Boxster control arm repair



Had this done on the Boxster.
Worked like a charm.

The clunk is gone.:dance:

Jinx

?
Need to order some, sounds like I have a pickup box full of loose lumber on poor pavement and rough dirt road I had to do to pick my son up this afternoon.
I've found the 986 part at a reasonable price but not the 987.

Now I know what that frigging noise is coming from, and how to fix it...

I just ordered the 986 rear track arms for my car. Now I'm curious to why the 987 is better?

987
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...104302-M80.jpg
986
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...104307-M80.jpg

I agree with you Kram. I am curious about the difference?
I came to the conclusion that they were both the same and ordered some 986 ones...

I did not know they were interchangeable when I ordered mine. Normally when they are Porsche supersedes the part number. Maybe it's a build date issue, the 986 numbered track arms have been sitting around longer then the 987 ones? Once they run out of them they supersede the number?

Like if you go to Pelican to order a motor mount, you now get the 987-375-023-05 part number.

Not sure what the exact difference is, but beware that Pelican has a ton of "file photos" on their parts pages. I thought i had gotten the wrong clutch slave cylinder because of it.

On the subject of the track arm i watched the video from EPS about theirs with the urethane bushing. I like some EPS stuff but not that. If you watch him push the thing around you see the arm bending quite a bit. That track arm isn't designed to bend and with a ball in the end it never will. Look up "pin connected structures" in any statics book. Each member is statically determinant (just means a mortal can do the math on all pieces of the free body diagram) because they can only push or pull, exactly the job of a track arm. Counting on that flimsy forging to stiffen the ride is a suckers bet in the long run. I bet some of those will snap off a few inches from that end. That would be "interesting"

I have to agree with Brad Roberts on this one. I'm hoping he will explain the 987 arm better

There used to be some aftermarket replacements available with greasable spherical joints at very reasonanle prices here in the states. Wonder what happen to them?

Sent from my SM-T310 using Tapatalk

here they are!


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Porsche-986-987-Boxster-Boxster-S-97-10-Adjustable-Rear-Track-Arm-Arms-/391099382619?hash=item5b0f56fb5b

http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NDgwWDY0MA...46Q~~60_12.JPG

Not as cheap as I remembered but I guess it a sign of me getting old... :(

Heres the link to the control arm repair procedure.

Boxster Control Arm Repair - 986 Boxster Suspension, Brakes, and Wheels - RennTech.org Community

Has anyone here used these? Care to do a review?

They look heavy.

Is the ball joint free of plastic? Do they have the potential to outlive a stock set.

I'm planning on lowering the car and was looking at their toe control arms. Is there a need for adjustment on the trailing arms?

Well if it is all metal, It may not be as durable. Once a little play sets in I'm sure you will hear it.

You're probably right.

Just blown away that a cars trailing arms are shot at 60 000 miles and the hole part has to be replaced. Would rather press in new joints. Seems wasteful.

That is what is possible with the part I showed. Whether or not the rod end is easily available is something else. May want to contact the manufacturer or the seller to find out.