Drop the engine and the tip together?
 

In the Bentley manual, on the first page under engine removal and installation, they say: "NOTE- Porsche recommends removing the engine and transmission as one unit, then separating the two." Then they go on to describe the procedure of dropping the transmission then the engine separately. Huh?
I've undone all the top part (hoses, connections, etc.) and I've removed the exhaust, so now I'm looking at the underside and the prospect of reaching all those bolts that attach the tiptronic transmission to the engine makes me think that there may be some sense to Porsche's method.
Any thoughts or caveats on this?

Pull it all together. Unplug the ecu and pull the harness to the motor side and let it all sit on top of the motor. drop it and enjoy :)

A Porsche tech told me that they are designed to be dropped together and in 3 hrs.!?!!!!

Yeah, well...
I guess if you've got the drill down and in a spotlessly white Porsche garage with every imaginable tool.
If mine's out after 3 weeks (part time mind you) I'll be a happy camper! :)
It's just a bit confusing because Bentley's and Dempster's both outline the procedure for a separate drop, which entails certain unplugs and undoes which may not be necessary when they are dropped together.
Oh well "Damn the torpedoes, full speed ahead!"

Since I'm not a mechanic but I had time on my side, I tried to keep this project as simple as possible. I kept the structural cross member in, removed the exhaust then removed the manual transmission. The engine is support from above with the strong back therefore the atv jack can be used to remove the transmission. I am inexperienced and working by myself I need to keep things simple. With the exhaust out of the way access to the transmission was not difficult (mark flange bolts).
With the transmission clear I had the clutch in my face so ... remove it. Then I had the flywheel in my face .... remove it.
The whole time the engine is still secured to its mounts and supported from above, so I'm able to apply some torque removing bolts and not have the engine move around.
When it was time to lower the engine(atv jack) I had one of my children take care of the AC compressor (into the cabin) and another child and myself kept an eye on the engine clearance making sure nothing snagged. All went well with no snags therefore no extra expense.
Doing it this method was probably slower but I had smaller pieces I had to deal with and therefore less chance of missing something going wrong.

It's just a bit confusing because Bentley's and Dempster's both outline the procedure for a separate drop, which entails certain unplugs and undoes which may not be necessary when they are dropped together.
Oh well "Damn the torpedoes, full speed ahead!"[/QUOTE]

They are actually doing the work so they can take pictures, but they aren't going to do it twice to show both methods.

@pjq
You know, if mine was a manual transmission, I'd probably do the same. The tip seems to have more hoses and lines and doodads, torque converters and... to deal with. So the brace is out and I'm about ready for the drop. :eek:
@BYprodriver
So, if I'm successful, I'll give a resume of the procedure! :)

Alright, ahead on two ... steady as she goes ...all hands standby for lowering of the torpedo!

It looks like you have a few days of warmer temperatures (-6) ahead. That will help make the task a little more comfortable.
I got tired and cold of sitting/laying on a cold concrete floor so I went to the local hardware store and bought a 1.5 inch thick sheet of rigid insulation board (2x8 pink or blue board), what a difference.

Do not forget to loosen the torque converter bolts before lowering the engine and transmission assembly!

Other than that, its fairly straight forward.

Could you clarify this? Not quite sure why I need to do this.

You don't, read my response to your post on RennTech.org................

The proof of the pudding! (Okay, so it took me a while...) :rolleyes:http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1394572776.jpg

OMG, where do I start ?!!http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1394574114.jpg

What worked for me - mostly unless I got careless during dis-assembly- Start by putting on blue tape / sharpie labels on everything you are going to dis-assemble and then taking about 20 or 30 pictures to cover everything from every angle before you actually dis-assemble it. Be sure to label every connector with a description you can use for assembly. The tape labels will be very helpful during assembly -you wont be sorry for taking this time while re-assembling. Also bag every bolt in a ziplock bag with a note as to what the bolt is and where it goes. Be very specific so it's not a mystery when you re-assemble. I labeled some "under car bolts", what a useless idiot move. If bolts can be taped into the hole they came out of, like the four from the cross member, put the bolt through the hole and put a tape flag on the threads to hold it there. That's where I started!

Oh yes. I totally agree with that. Glad I've got my handy iphone always ready in my pocket! Taking things apart is easy! :)

If you are doing an engine rebuild there are some bolts that are not symetrical. installing a long bolt in a short bolt position will result in internal engine damage. If you are doing engine disassembly I can give you tips on where a newbie like me could have improved after my first rebuild.

The reason for the IMS cost being higher for the TIP cars as opposed to the manual has always been cited as having to remove both as one unit and then separate. If the guy who has done hundreds says it ....

Dropping them together is not that hard, although you must remove the cross member ( no sweat really). The real PITA is that there's a shiftload of extra hoses and wires to deal with. After I'm finished the engine work, I'm seriously considering loading it onto a flatbed and having a local shop stuff it back in. But maybe when the time comes... I am a cheap bastard after all ;)

Hey NewArt,

Too bad you didn't do a video of this project. Or did you and I missed it?

Reviving an old thread, sorry.

No, this was long before my YouTube days. Unfortunately I did many repairs and modifications before I started filming them.