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Old 07-02-2008, 02:58 PM   #1
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Super Information both JackG and Dohertycm.

I'm going to try the passenger side likely tomorrow or Friday.
Dohertycm, what size of bearing puller did you use? 8" or 6"?.

The drivers side sounds like the toughest for clearance. Did you guys find that you didn't need to drop the exhaust (header) on the passenger side?

I'm going to try and take pictures as I go.
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Old 07-02-2008, 06:58 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sputter
Super Information both JackG and Dohertycm.

I'm going to try the passenger side likely tomorrow or Friday.
Dohertycm, what size of bearing puller did you use? 8" or 6"?.

The drivers side sounds like the toughest for clearance. Did you guys find that you didn't need to drop the exhaust (header) on the passenger side?

I'm going to try and take pictures as I go.
Hi Sputter,

The axle puller is a device that mounts to the lug bolt pattern, and has a center threaded bolt that pushes the axle out of the hub. I borrowed one from Advance (I think). They are common for working on front wheel drive cars.

The drivers side on an "S" is the tighter side, and requires dropping the header. The passenger side does not require this step on an S.

Good luck with it, and make sure you get those CV joints clean and greased back up. Don't want to have to do it again anytime soon, huh?
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Old 07-02-2008, 07:16 PM   #3
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I've got my boots/mobil1 grease. I'm just waiting for the new axle nuts. I'll be keeping my fingers crossed that I don't snap a header bolt.


Quote:
Originally Posted by JackG
Hi Sputter,

The axle puller is a device that mounts to the lug bolt pattern, and has a center threaded bolt that pushes the axle out of the hub. I borrowed one from Advance (I think). They are common for working on front wheel drive cars.

The drivers side on an "S" is the tighter side, and requires dropping the header. The passenger side does not require this step on an S.

Good luck with it, and make sure you get those CV joints clean and greased back up. Don't want to have to do it again anytime soon, huh?
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Old 07-03-2008, 05:26 AM   #4
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Nice write up.

You said they quoted you 10 hours labor. Any idea what it took you?
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Old 07-03-2008, 09:41 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frodo
Nice write up.

You said they quoted you 10 hours labor. Any idea what it took you?
From the time I drove it into my shop until I backed it out, I had just over 10 hours of my time invested. I think now that I've done it once, I could do both sides, innner and outer, in 6-7 hours.
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Old 07-08-2008, 05:59 AM   #6
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(passenger side)
I had to move the wheel carrier out of the way. It might be due to having the PSE option but I couldn't get enough room to drop the shaft out.
I used a brass drift to tap out the shaft. I spent more time sorting it all out than actually doing work. So far, i don't see this job being more than 4 hours with experience. (maybe less,for both sides as I was really taking my time)

I think I can do the same thing on the drivers side when I get there.

I'm still sorting out how exactly the end caps come off to install the new boots.
Is it both ends that come off or just the inner and slide the outer all the way up?

Too bad Bentleys doesn't really cover the boot replacement.
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Old 07-08-2008, 06:09 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sputter
(passenger side)
I'm still sorting out how exactly the end caps come off to install the new boots.
Is it both ends that come off or just the inner and slide the outer all the way up?
Read these steps carefully:

13. Pry the metal cap off of the inner CV joint to expose the end of the axle.

14. Remove the C clip from the end of the axle, then carefully drive the axle out of the CV joint. I used a large brass rod as a drift punch on the end of the axle, and held the CV joint in my hands to eliminate any chance of damage.

15. Remove the outer CV joint boot, then clean everything.

16. Re-pack outer joint with grease, install outer boot, install inner boot on axle, then inner CV joint, the re-pack inner CV joint, then slide boot down and install metal end cap. I used a large socket to carefully drive the CV joint down over the axle. Everything is clean and lightly lubed, so it's easy.

Does that make sense? The flange that bolts to the diff has a metal cap that has to be pried off, and under it is a clip that retains the axle. You should have a new metal cap in the boot kit.

Hope that helps.
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