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		|  07-25-2013, 04:39 PM | #1 |  
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			what if I slotted the upper mount holes and got to -1 CAM???Geez all I did was move the  ROW M030 strut down .625" in the hub carrier...that's easy to reverse...how much can you lower these before needing adjustable tie-rods Brad?
 
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		|  07-25-2013, 04:41 PM | #2 |  
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			Just move them back up.. and don't fool with mother nature   
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		|  07-25-2013, 04:42 PM | #3 |  
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			I push the rubber bushing out and install an offset mounting hole (made from alum) in the tow link (at the inside mounting point)
		 
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		|  07-25-2013, 04:45 PM | #4 |  
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			and FYI 
NEXT time... TELL US/ME that you moved the strut down!!
 
I could have ended this thread 10posts ago!!!   
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		|  07-25-2013, 05:06 PM | #5 |  
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	Quote: 
	
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					Originally Posted by Brad Roberts  I push the rubber bushing out and install an offset mounting hole (made from alum) in the tow link (at the inside mounting point) |  
NICE!hmmmn
		 
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		|  07-25-2013, 05:50 PM | #6 |  
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			I appreciate your attempt    You had the right idea, just didn't have the rest of the parts to pull it off!!
 
I have run shorter shocks, and moved them up    
I have also run a specific Porsche upright that moves the wheel bearing up 2inches in the upright, but does not change the suspension geometry.
 
You just have to know what to buy   
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		|  07-26-2013, 02:00 PM | #7 |  
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			I measured the ride height- FR is lower by 1" and RR is lower by .5"!! I was expecting an additional .5" lowering FR and RR...The FR I can live with but why is the suspension so out of spec after .5"lowering? I'm not totally susprised that the rear isn't as low as I expected since I bought the Tip set (my car is a 6-speed)as it was $250 cheaper. I thought hey I'll get a little higher spring rate (assumption)  and more neutral handling--perfect! Maybe the rate's the same and the coil length is greater, hence less lowering???That's fine too but why's it so out of spec??? Dammit, new OEM parts and still more probs.
		 
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