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Originally Posted by gharari
Anyone know how to replace the inside CV boots? I need to do this and am debating on whether or not to attempt this myself. My mechanic wants $450 including parts. I am told the parts are $90 for two CV boots.
If anyone has instructions, photos, or diagrams, and is willing to email them to me, that would be much appreciated!
gharari@cox.net |
It's easy to do and takes about 1 1/2 hours per side.
One thing to consider WYAIT. Though it can be done, it's really difficult to replace the boot while you're laying under the car so it's better to just take the axel off. While it's off, go ahead and do the outside so you don't have to go through it all over again in a few thousand miles.
Parts:
1) Boot kit (should have boots, clamps, circlip and grease packets). Check with
http://www.sunsetporsche.com for a much better price than local dealers.
2) Moly grease (dealer has it for $25. It's a small tube, but it will last you a life time.
3) Several cans of brake or parts cleaner.
Tools:
1) Allen socket set and allen wrench set.
2) 3/4" ratchet or breaker bar and large axle socket. You can rent these for free at AutoZone and they can look up the exact socket size there.
3) Brass punch set ($15 at Northern Tools) and hammer (mini sledge is best for weight and balance).
How to replace the boots:
If you plan to replace the inner and outer, go to step 2 first, then return to 1.
1) It's easier to do if you lift the car enough to get under it on a creeper. The inner axle is held on by 6-8 allen bolts (I believe they're 8mm). Lock the wheels with the parking brake and put it in 5th gear then remove the bolts.
2) The outer axle is held on with a single, large nut (30mm+). If you're doing both sides, make sure you loosen both rear axle nuts before lifting the car. It's easiest and safer for the tranny to take the center cap off of the wheel and leave the car on the ground when you take that nut off. Once the nut's off, and the inner jont is unbolted, you can push the axel toward the inside through the hub. A brass punch ($15 at norther tool for a set) can be used on the center of the axle to break it loose if it's stuck.
3) Once the axle is off, you need to remove the inner joint. There's a circlip holding it on that needs to be removed first. After that, pop the clips off the boot and slide it toward the middle of the axle a little. Next, you'll probably need to put the axle in a table vice (with soft jaws so you don't tear up the axel) and use a brass punch to knock the joint off the end. Make sure you put the joint as close to the axle as possible to keep from hitting one of the large ball bearings and damaging it. It can take some force, so don't be surprised with that. Also, be careful once the joint is off. If you turn the inside of the joint about 60 degrees, the bearings can fall out and you have to figure out how to put them back in correctly.
4) Once the inner joint is off the axle, you can slide the inner boot off. Next, if you're doing the outer joint, remove the clips for the outer joint and slide the boot off the inner axel. You don't have to remove the outer joint.
5) Clean the joints well. You can use brake cleaner to do this (with rubber gloves) or get a can of parts cleaner. There are no rubber parts left on the axle so you won't damage anything. Let everything dry completely before you put it all back together.
6) Slide the new outer boot on if replacing it, then put the grease in the boot and seal it up according to the instructions. You'll need a set of clamping pliers for the metal clamp that holds the boots on if you don't have one.
7) For the inner boot, slide the boot on first. Take an old toothbrush and put a thin layer of the moly grease on the splines where the inner joint goes back on the axle. Put the inner joint back on (you may need to put the axle back in the vice and use a large socket to pop it all the way on). Make sure whatever you use to pop it back on is centered. Otherwise the joint will go on a little crooked and be difficult to get all the way on.
8) Once it's on, fill the boot and joint with grease and seal the boot onto the joint according to the directions.
9) Before putting the axle back on, put some moly grease on the outer splines. The axle will most likely slide into the hub easily, then you can put the bolts back into the inner joint. Put the axle nut on and tighten it down to about 100 ft lbs. Put the tires back on, but not the center caps, lower the car and tighten the axle nut all the way. Drive around a couple of miles, then tighten the axle nut again and you're done.
I have pictures from when I did this on the 928 if you want them. It's the same procedure, just looks different underneath.
Please chime in if I left anything out or there are any short cuts I don't know about.
Hope it helps.
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