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Old 10-02-2011, 03:26 PM   #1
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Just so I understand, you feel that 50 grade oil provides better lubrication at higher operating temperatures than 40W ? Also, some of what I've read suggests that there's a benefit to using 0-5W for initial start-up over the usual 10W . Does this make sense ?
I can tell from the UOA that the 50 weight is doing it's job, because the zinc and phosphorus are lower than Red Line's content. And wear metals went down with a longer drain interval.

I think a 5 weight is better than a 0 weight because it narrows the gap to 50 and keeps the range tighter. A 0 weight would be good for a very cold climate (when my cars are stored). There are no 10 weight oils that at Porsche approved for the 986/987/996/997.

My car sees a LOT of +6,000 RPM's (shifting).

I'll post my cumulative UOA from the past 4 oil changes one day this week, when I get a chance, and you'll see the data.

Without the UOA's I'd never know that the Red Line 5W40 was a great oil, and the Mobil 5W50 appears to be as good or better.

Last edited by Flavor 987S; 10-02-2011 at 03:29 PM.
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Old 10-02-2011, 04:45 PM   #2
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I can tell from the UOA that the 50 weight is doing it's job, because the zinc and phosphorus are lower than Red Line's content. And wear metals went down with a longer drain interval.

I think a 5 weight is better than a 0 weight because it narrows the gap to 50 and keeps the range tighter. A 0 weight would be good for a very cold climate (when my cars are stored). There are no 10 weight oils that at Porsche approved for the 986/987/996/997.

My car sees a LOT of +6,000 RPM's (shifting).

I'll post my cumulative UOA from the past 4 oil changes one day this week, when I get a chance, and you'll see the data.

Without the UOA's I'd never know that the Red Line 5W40 was a great oil, and the Mobil 5W50 appears to be as good or better.
From the UOAs I've done so far, M1 0-40 is by far the best. P and Z levels consistently above 1000, Moly at 90, always in the middle of the viscosity range. With Mobil 15-50, Z and P were in the 750-850 range, Moly in the 20 range and it had sheared below grade after only 1k miles. Valvoline 20-50 also had low Z, P and Moly, but stayed within viscosity grade.

But to repeat myself, the issue I see is that until you drive your car for about 1/2 hour, its not up to operating temperature, and a 0 weight oil will provide better protection during the crucial warm up period.
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Old 10-03-2011, 07:06 AM   #3
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I am using 5W40 motul 8100 x-ess. Actually, I have experienced much less lifter noise/engine clatter on start up than with 0W40 M1. Perhaps this is down to more oil film retention (due to the higher viscosity) and availability on start up. Valve train and lifter tick are are sounds that are very rare rather than a regular occurrence with 0W40. Whether this translates to reduced engine wear is another story but it sure does sound like this would be the case. If someone could direct me to the oil flow case article, it would be much appreciated.

I also track the car and only drive in summer. The thicker oil made sense to me.
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Old 10-03-2011, 09:38 AM   #4
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I am using 5W40 motul 8100 x-ess. Actually, I have experienced much less lifter noise/engine clatter on start up than with 0W40 M1. Perhaps this is down to more oil film retention (due to the higher viscosity) and availability on start up. Valve train and lifter tick are are sounds that are very rare rather than a regular occurrence with 0W40. Whether this translates to reduced engine wear is another story but it sure does sound like this would be the case. If someone could direct me to the oil flow case article, it would be much appreciated.

I also track the car and only drive in summer. The thicker oil made sense to me.
I used Motul 5W-40 Xcess for 3 oil changes after the factory fill, but still had noticeable valve train noise on startup. I never used M1 0W-40 as I use that oil in the wife's MB E320 and there's always startup noise. I went with M1 5W-40 for two oil changes but had valve train noise again. I just recently went with Redline 5W-40 and the valve train noise is virtually gone. BTW, the UOAs on the Motul and M1 5W-40 oils were good, it was just the noise that bothered me.

I called Redline and they told me that their product is higher in ester than other PCMOs. Since ester is a polar molecule, it will stick to metal parts.

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Old 10-03-2011, 06:38 PM   #5
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I used Motul 5W-40 Xcess for 3 oil changes after the factory fill, but still had noticeable valve train noise on startup. I never used M1 0W-40 as I use that oil in the wife's MB E320 and there's always startup noise. I went with M1 5W-40 for two oil changes but had valve train noise again. I just recently went with Redline 5W-40 and the valve train noise is virtually gone. BTW, the UOAs on the Motul and M1 5W-40 oils were good, it was just the noise that bothered me.

I called Redline and they told me that their product is higher in ester than other PCMOs. Since ester is a polar molecule, it will stick to metal parts.

Regards,
paul...
OK Paul I just ordered some Redline 5W-40 I will report my experience after my next oil change.
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Old 10-04-2011, 06:32 AM   #6
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OK Paul I just ordered some Redline 5W-40 I will report my experience after my next oil change.
Good luck with it. I also thought about using Motul 300V, but this is essentially a racing oil and I worry about cat converter compatability. A while back I was checking RLI's oil (Renewable Lubricants) but when I called to inquire about the HTHS rating, they never really answered my question -- they gave me a long, drawn out response but since I'm not a lube engineer, I couldn't make any sense of it. They do show it as meeting ACEA A3 (1998) which has the >= 3.5cP HTHS requirement.

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Old 10-05-2011, 07:31 PM   #7
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My engine rebuilder recommended Castrol Synted 5W40 for my Boxster. Engine was rebuilt as PO had added 4 extra liters of oil at a gas station ... she did not have a manual and read the dipstick wrong. I have used it in my 2010 F150 and it seems to run better with better gas milage. He warrants the engine and said I should not have any issues with Castrol. I am looking at upgrading to the L&N spin on oil filter kit before I put it in storage for the winter.
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Old 02-05-2012, 02:19 PM   #8
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OK Paul I just ordered some Red Line 5W-40 I will report my experience after my next oil change.
Back in October said I would try Red Line synthetic oil. I purchased a case from Racer Parts Wholesale (best price I could find), and with my last oil change poured 9 quarts into the Jägermobile. The first thing I noticed is on cold starts there is no more lifter/valve train noise, which is something I would hear for about 10 seconds after startup, I still have a little chain noise until the tensioners pump-up but it’s much quieter on cold start-ups. I also notice it takes more time for the engine to come-up to temperature, which was a surprise. The next thing I need to check is how much ferrous metal is sticking to the magnetic drain plug when I change the oil next time (in a couple months). I will take pictures and compare with previous pictures/amounts when using Mobil 1, I will post those results. So far I am sold.
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Old 02-05-2012, 08:48 PM   #9
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What is the weight of the Red Line you used ?
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Old 04-13-2012, 09:21 AM   #10
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Back in October said I would try Red Line synthetic oil. I purchased a case from Racer Parts Wholesale (best price I could find), and with my last oil change poured 9 quarts into the Jägermobile. The first thing I noticed is on cold starts there is no more lifter/valve train noise, which is something I would hear for about 10 seconds after startup, I still have a little chain noise until the tensioners pump-up but it’s much quieter on cold start-ups. I also notice it takes more time for the engine to come-up to temperature, which was a surprise. The next thing I need to check is how much ferrous metal is sticking to the magnetic drain plug when I change the oil next time (in a couple months). I will take pictures and compare with previous pictures/amounts when using Mobil 1, I will post those results. So far I am sold.
Jäger,

Glad to hear you're enjoying Redline. I have had the same experiences as you except I can't comment on the warmup time (because I never noticed it). I have a couple of thousand more miles to do before I change out the oil and get an UOA -- I'm also interested to see what the Fe levels are.

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