09-25-2011, 11:31 AM
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#1
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Opposed to Subie Burble
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Central CT
Posts: 1,197
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jaykay is correct about the manual deployment of the spoiler. Once you press that switch the spoiler will stay up until you either manually stow it or until the car is powered off and started again, at which point it resumes normal operation.
When you start the car, does the spoiler warning light come on and stay on until you start driving (like it's supposed to)? That'd tell you if the bulb burned out if you don't see it upon starting the car. This culprit is not very likely, but you never know, so check it out. Clearly the speeds you're getting to at this point should see the spoiler out doing its job, but unfortunately we can't see that from the driver's seat.
I do wonder about that GT3 nose...maybe it's providing more downforce on the front to the point where the downforce the stock rear spoiler puts down is no longer sufficient. Maybe you should see about getting an Aerokit-style permanent spoiler to put on the back, or if you don't want to drill your trunk lid (understandable), if you still have your original nose, maybe throw it back on and see if the car settles down?
I know Lime Rock Park's never really been one of the smoothest tracks out there, even after the repaving not long ago. Is the road surface where you're encountering this any sort of bumpy? It could be the line you're choosing has a spot that the chassis doesn't like, and gets that reaction from it.
__________________
-O/D
1997 Arctic Silver Boxster, 5-spd
IMSR + RMS
Robbins glass window top
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09-27-2011, 05:32 AM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 1,820
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is that section bumpy at all?
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10-22-2011, 04:51 PM
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: upstate New York
Posts: 30
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Ok,,this has been a real treat,,,first of all what's a ROW suspension,?,,,
Second, went to M- tech motorsports,,drove the car and put it up on the lift,,,appears that at one time (prior to me) the car was hit in the drivers rear,,,EVERYTHING,,,lower control arm track arm, and control arm link , Were bent and to put it simply the the wheel was crabbing,,,and caused the wheel bearing to go,,,,could literally wobble the wheel,
So ultimately the whole left rear suspension has to go and new needs to be put in
bTW,,we tried the spoiler up thing, and a different line on the track, what pushed me over the edge is when the wife and I took the car on a day trip, and it swayed so much that the wife got car sick
Thanks for all the replies and help,,,,what's the best way to go with suspension replacement ( shocks) or full coil overs , I ordered the hard parts from pelican
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10-22-2011, 05:32 PM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: upstate New York
Posts: 30
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So here's the next question,,,,,what type of pulled do I need to pull the hub off the axle?
And now I know what the m030 row suspension is,,it's the euro suspension
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10-23-2011, 06:56 PM
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#5
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Opposed to Subie Burble
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Central CT
Posts: 1,197
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jakell2010
Ok,,this has been a real treat,,,first of all what's a ROW suspension,?,,,
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A RoW (Rest of World, I believe) suspension is the M030 option that some cars came with, basically Porsche's sport suspension for the Boxster.
The US-spec M030, which isn't in a nice put-together kit like the RoW version is, unfortunately, does not change the car's stock ride height, but still provides the improved handling the sport suspension is supposed to. The RoW kit lowers the car about 20mm front, 10mm rear, (so call it 3/4" front, maybe 1/4 to 1/2" rear). Since it's easier to come by the RoW suspension, for less, in a nice all-in-one package, and also because people love to lower their cars, this is usually the route people go without going as extreme as a Bilstein PSS9 setup.
Check the options sticker under your car's hood to see if you have the M030 option already so you don't end up buying the wrong parts.
__________________
-O/D
1997 Arctic Silver Boxster, 5-spd
IMSR + RMS
Robbins glass window top
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