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Old 08-06-2011, 04:45 AM   #1
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Audio/Head Unit ?

I have an audio related question perhaps someone can help me with. I'd like to change out the factory head unit (CDR-220) for a high quality aftermarket one that will allow me to utilize my ipod. Is it possible to do this in conjunction with the oem amplifier and speakers ? Also, my vehicle came equipped with the funky DSP equalizer . Will this also be compatible with an aftermarket head unit ?



JD
p.s. In the past, I tried using the auxiliary input on the oem radio with disastrous
results .

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Old 08-06-2011, 06:14 AM   #2
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I will try my best to be some assistance....

I'll start by saying, stop reading if your car has fiber optic. I don't know much about fiber optic.

Now that thats out of the way.....
You have 2 options to your mod.
Option 1
Remove entire system to include DSP and amp. This is highly recommended due to the fact of less splicing and research in schematics. You can get a small 100-200watt 4ch amp and be satisfied. All that is needed is a basic wire harness for your new head unit. You will then run new RCA patch cables from the head unit to the amp and then connect the amp to the speaker cables (where the oem amp was).

Option 2
If you wish to utilize the DSP and oem amp, you will have to research for the schematic to the DSP. Your radios' RCA line OUTPUT will need to be connected to the DSP to provide it with signal. The DSP then sends the signal to your amp in the trunck. Make sure you get a radio with these outputs. DO NOT USE THE RADIOS' SPEAKER LINE OUTPUTS, for this will distroy your DSP and amp.

As for the radio, its up to you what you like, but an IPOD direct connection is better for sound and to control thru the radios control. An AUX input is more versitale (ANY MP3,CELL PHONE,LAPTOP,ECT) can be connected to it. However sound quality is so-so.

There is more than 1 way to skin a cat......remember that.

Last edited by 442nd986s; 08-08-2011 at 05:33 AM.
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Old 08-06-2011, 09:11 AM   #3
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442,

Thanks for your reply, but that's way more than I care to be involved in . If possible, I'm looking for simple "plug and play" compatibility with regard to swapping out head units .
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Old 08-08-2011, 05:37 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny Danger
442,

Thanks for your reply, but that's way more than I care to be involved in . If possible, I'm looking for simple "plug and play" compatibility with regard to swapping out head units .

I don't have the resources to search for the schematics, but if you find them, I will be more than happy to assist you in making it a simple plug and play system. I know it can be done with time and resources.
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Old 08-08-2011, 02:23 PM   #5
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According to Car Toys (I was there today) it is. I am looking at putting a double-din unit with bluetooth, DVD, CD, Nav - directly into the existing slots that currently house my factory unit and cup holders. They have done it before and say all it will take is the wiring for the new iPod and voice control mic. No problem.

Additionally Johnny, as you may already know, you can add the plug for the iPod to the rear of that unit without changing anything else.
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Last edited by DenverSteve; 08-08-2011 at 02:27 PM.
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Old 08-08-2011, 02:58 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DenverSteve
According to Car Toys (I was there today) it is. I am looking at putting a double-din unit with bluetooth, DVD, CD, Nav - directly into the existing slots that currently house my factory unit and cup holders. They have done it before and say all it will take is the wiring for the new iPod and voice control mic. No problem.

Additionally Johnny, as you may already know, you can add the plug for the iPod to the rear of that unit without changing anything else.
It's befuddling to me, but I've had nothing but disastrous results trying to integrate an ipod via the auxiliary input. In the process of trying virtually every aftermarket cable out there I've "smoked" 3 ipods . All I can say, is that it's been explained to me that the auxiliary source on the oem radio does not provide stable enough current to accommodate an ipod. In fact, it shunts power in between the ignition being in the "on" position and when the engine is actually running.

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