Why won't my Conv Top not go back up
 

Gentleman, in the continuing fight to get my 01 Boxster S back on the road, I have run into another problem. I replaced my top (Frame et al) and it worked until this morning, I put the top down and it will not go back up. There is no noise coming from the motor, any ideas?

Cheers
Steve

Yet another problem for the convertible top wunderkind Maurice. We need to clone that guy. ;)

Mine was the micro switch in the a pillar ,,,,,,set your brake push the switch and push the switch in and out and see if it clicks or moves if so then there's your issue,,,,$75.00 fix at Pelican

I tried it this morning again and it started to work , who knows, it has a mind of its own.

Not sure if anyone mentioned this, but the top only works if the hand brake is on.

And the park brake light on the dash must be lit. There's a switch in the console that controls this and failure of this switch seems to be one of the most common reasons for tops not working.

I have to pull out my oddments tray and jiggle the switch to get it to work occasionally. I have a new switch, just haven't gotten around to installing it yet.

I just have this problem.

The top convertible doesn't want to close.

My light brake turn on, and nothing happening when i press the switch, no noise nothing.

I check the fuse everything fine.

Any clues ?

Yves

any clues on this issue? i'm having a similar issue. My top won't close :(

We need more information to diagnose this properly.

Have you set the emergency brake AND has the idiot light on the dashboard lit up, showing that the emergency brake is on?

If you have answered yes to the two above questions, then the problem lies in one of two fuses, a dead spot on the armature of the electric motor, a bad convertible top double relay or corrosion on the spades of the relay.

Can you supply some more details. Year of your Boxster, is this first time that this has happened...do you hear any noises or see the lights dim when you press the button?...

Regards, Maurice.

Thanks for the suggestions. Mine is 2003 s. It's not the first time it has happened. It happened again in a similar fashion about a month ago. I drove topdown to work and when I arrived, top refused to go up. It finally worked after several trials. But this time it refuses to work. Btw, I have the one touch top thingy which allows the top to work while driving at slow speed. Also, I'm ashamed to say I don't know how to check I my fuses are good or bad. And the break light does light up on the dash.

Here is how to check the fuses, which, in this case are B6 (which allows power to go to the convertible top double relay) and D3 (which allows power to go to the electric motor):

Remove your fuse panel cover, which is the one located to the left of your left ankle as you sit in the driver's seat. Locate fuse B6, which is the sixth fuse from the left in the second row down from the top row of the fuse panel. Do the same for fuse D3 (fourth row from the top, third fuse from the left). If you look very closely at the fuse panel, you will see that the rows are numbered as well. Pull out one fuse and examine it to see if, across the top of it, the wire conductor is not broken (i.e., it is one intact piece of wire that bridges across from the left terminal to the right terminal). It's as simple as that.

Here is a photo showing the fuse panel and its location. For reference, you can see the "dead pedal" at the right of the photo. (BTW, you can use that little yellow tool that you can see in the bottom right hand corner of the fuse panel to pull out the fuses).

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1337267907.jpg

This second photo shows the location of the relay tray. The double relay in this photo can be seen in the top right corner. For reference, you can also see the top of the fuse panel at the bottom left of the photo.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1337267931.jpg


Also, by pulling the fuse out and reinstalling it, that sometimes cleans off a little bit of the surface corrosion that can build up on the spades and that will sometimes make the connection.

Applying that same principle, locate the convertible top double relay (your "SmartTop" relay in this case). That one is located in the relay tray which is above that same fuse panel. It's the only double relay in the tray, so you can't miss it. Then pull the relay off and push it back on a few times (to clean some of the surface corrosion). If that doesn't work, pull the double relay off and give it a couple of whacks against a hard surface (similar to what people used to do with cigarette packs, but instead of smacking it against your hand, do it on a hard surface). That will sometimes revive a relay that has some very mild corrosion inside that is preventing contacts from opening or closing.

If neither one of the above work, if you have your old original relay, try inserting that one in the place of the SmartTop relay and see if you get any results.

If all of the above yield no results, apply 12 volts directly to the convertible top electric motor (located just forward of the the third brake light, in the convertible top well) to test whether there is indeed a dead spot on the motor. You can also sometimes revive an electric motor by smacking it sharply with a very small hammer. That used to work really well on MG Midgets fuel pumps :).

Keep us posted.

Regards, Maurice.

Thanks Maurice, I will keep you posted!

Maurice, I removed the two fuses and put them back. They were both fine. And suddenly the top works fine now. I think it might be the actual button we press to operate the top that is not working properly. It's a little "fidjidy". Thanks for your inputs once again. I will have the buttons looked at.

:cheers:

Removing and reinserting the fuses sometimes results in re-establishing a connection between the two spades of each fuse and the female receptacles in the fuse tray. That is because of the surface corrosion that I mentioned before. It can build up gradually until there is no more good electrical contact and pulling and pushing a fuse back in can fix it. You can also get some fine emery cloth and clean the spades and insert the emery cloth into the female receptacles of the fuse panel by folding the emery cloth over a flat blade screwdriver and rubbing back and forth a couple of times.

If it's the switch, replacing it is fairly straightforward.

It would be good to pinpoint the cause so that you can have more confidence that the top will work every time.

Regards, Maurice.

I guess after not finding the route of the problem for so long, I'm finally doomed. My top has continued to have issues - it would work sometimes, and not work other times. I kind of just got used to it. But now, the "convertible top" light is flashing on the dashboard. :( It goes away sometimes, but it comes back. I guess I might have to take the car to the dealer. My indy guy couldn't find the problem.

Did your Indie troubleshoot the switch itself?

I have never heard of the "convertible top open" light flashing on the dashboard. More often the light does not go off at the end of each cycle, but that is usually an issue that develops on the "A Version" setups (1997 to 1999).

Taking the car to the dealer to diagnose and repair a convertible top problem is usually a VERY expensive proposition.

If you want to eliminate a couple of potential trouble spots first, you could try replacing a couple of the parts which are relatively inexpensive: the switch, the convertible top double relay (or re-install the original relay in place of the SmartTop).

Regards, Maurice.

Over 7 years this has happened to me twice. Thanks to reading an old post by Maurice I verified the E brake and light were on, pulled both fuses... no go. Pulled and whacked the relay and when I reinserted the relay I heard a click (contacts closed). I tried the switch again and all is well. The process of elimination works. Thanks Maurice! :cheers:

:cheers:

Regards, Maurice

99 Same Problem with top stuck down
 

All the information helps but my idiot light for the hand break does not light on the dash when it is engaged. As soon as the vehicle is started it goes out without the parking break released. Already checked the fuses and they are OK. In all the posts I did not see if the light does not work, what does it mean. The convertible relay or the lock sensor switch? Failed the first time ever a few days ago.

Since the idiot light is on and then goes out when you start the car, even with the parking brake on, then the culprit is the microswitch at the base of the hand brake.

Sometimes you can get the microswitch to come back to life by vigorously pulling up on the handbrake, then releasing it suddenly, etc... for a few cycles. You might also get away with shooting some heavy duty compressed air at the microswitch, otherwise you will have to replace it.

Your convertible top will not operate without that idiot light going on, unless you get a SmartTop double relay or do the hack that allows you to bypass having to have the parking brake engaged.

Regards, Maurice.

I had the problem with my micro switch at the e-brake for quite some time. My solution was to spray a small amount of silicon lubricant around the switch depression piston and work it up and down a few times. I have not had that issue in three years.

On the other hand, these d*#* micro switches where the top latches, the relay and the latch its self is driving me crazy.

Similar Issue
 

I also recently noticed that once in a great while, I would unlatch the top, windows would go down a little, but top would not operate. The brake light always came on. I would close it back up, then it would usually work. A couple of weeks ago, I put the top down on a beautiful day. The next morning I nearly froze to death on the way to work because top wouldn't go back up. Had to park in a parking garage. Fuses were fine, took out relay and banged it, and nothing. Tried turning car on and off a few times and nothing. Then on way to shop, it worked fine and I got it back up. Now it's stuck in the closed position...better than open I guess, but absolutely no fun for spring! I FEEL like it may be the toggle switch on the dash. Has anyone had any more success? Any pictures and details of how to test for the dead spot on the motor? And what does that mean anyway?

Richard
2001 boxster

I finally tired of all the problems with the power top. I made mine manual, and it is much better and faster than with the electric power. I fought the problems for about a year before giving in, wish that I had done it sooner.

What's involved in making manual. I'm thinking of doing the same.

Here you go: http://986forum.com/forums/general-discussions/43235-why-i-converted-manual-top.html

Tried fixes, help please
 

First started:
I put the top down, wouldn't go up, emergency brake like goes on and off fine, tried auto button near the roof latch to reset but nothing (windows go up and down like normal). To protect from the rain I had to manually pull as well as press "up" to close the roof now it won't open. The open/in progress warning light will not go off even though the roof is closed.

Tried checking and taking the the 2x fuses and 2x relay switches in and out to remove corrosion. Still nothing. When I press the open and close button it sounds like something is trying to work behind me for 1 second and the rear body part that opens for the roof to fold into looks like it moves slightly.

Please help with any more ideas or fixes.

Many thanks!

James

If you are getting a little movement as you describe (and you were able to "assist" the top's movement), it sounds like one or both of the drive cables are either retracted inside their respective sheaths, or are frayed/twisted, or there is a wear problem inside one or both of the transmissions (under the V-levers).

What year is your Boxster (do you have the "A Version" or "B Version" transmissions and setup installed)?

Is there a black triangle or a black square on the visible face of the double relay when installed?

Regards, Maurice.

Thanks for the reply. Sorry for my late reply as I wasn't getting alerted to your questions and out of the country.

I have a 2003 Boxster base/stock model - pic attached. - Not sure what you mean by A or B transmission? 5 Speed manual.

Double relay has a black Square painted on the double rely. Pic attached.

What do I do to fix?

Thanks for your help!

The black square indicates that you have the "B Version" convertible top transmissions and set up, which is what was installed at the factory on all MY 2000 to 2004 Boxsters.

Again, because you described a little movement, the first place I would look is at the end of each of the two cables that drive the transmissions. You can check them for length to make sure that they are being driven by the electric motor by first lifting up the upside down U clip that holds them against the sides of the electric motor. If the inner cable is not sticking out by about 1/2 inch from the end of the outer sheath, that is probably your problem. Otherwise, you will have to investigate at the other end of the cables (the transmission end).

Try what I described above and report back.

Regards, Maurice.

So the same thing happened to me yesterday. I was driving with the top down, got to work and the top wouldn't go back up. The break light comes on. The light that shows that the top is ooening or closing comes on. I can not get that light to go on or off. Either by trying to go up or by pressing the down button. The lights in the dash dim a bit when I press the button.

'99 boxster
It has never happened before.

After letting it sit all night, it still doesn't work. I have looked at the fuses and the relay. Everything looked ok to me.

Any other things I could try?

Your '99 has the "A Version" top transmissions and set up, including the B-Pillar microswitch and the black lever microswitch (directly on top of the electric motor).

If the lights in your dash dim a bit when you press the button, that usually is an indication of too much resistance, something preventing the top from moving. Without more information, it's difficult to determine whether your transmissions "over-rotated" and that is making it difficult to move the top frame assembly (the "A Version" transmissions have a half-moon shaped gear inside, unlike the "B Version", which is a complete 360 degree gear).

One thing you might try to further isolate the problem is to try to power on the electric motor by itself, without it having to drive the cables. To do that, as I described above, pull the upside U-Clip up on each side of the motor and that will allow you to pull the respective cable out of each side of the motor. Then you can press the button and see if the electric motor spins. To completely isolate the motor, you would have to supply separate power from a 12V power source, such as another battery, but try it with the power coming from depressing the switch first.

If you are completely unfamiliar with the location of the parts, take a look at the write-up on Mike Focke's website. There are photos of all of these parts, here: https://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/thetop-itsmaintaince%26replacement

Let us know what happens, if anything, when you do that.

Regards, Maurice.

Hi! Sorry for the delay. After much searching around, I still couldn't find a problem. Finally, I took it in. I just got a call back, and it is my right top transmission. I just thought I would let you guys know!

Any thoughts on how hard it is to replace one of these?

It takes about 1/2 hour to remove and replace one of the convertible top transmissions.

After you pull away the foam liner on the inside of the quarter paner, one 19mm nut in the center and three 13mm nuts on the outer perimeter. Instructions are in the link I posted in response to one of your posts.

Regards, Maurice.

Confused?
 

Do you have photos or videos on how to do this? Not clear on how to access this area.

"first place I would look is at the end of each of the two cables that drive the transmissions. You can check them for length to make sure that they are being driven by the electric motor by first lifting up the upside down U clip that holds them against the sides of the electric motor. If the inner cable is not sticking out by about 1/2 inch from the end of the outer sheath, that is probably your problem. Otherwise, you will have to investigate at the other end of the cables (the transmission end).

Thank you,

Switch
 

I discovered this thread, and this forum, because my 2001 Boxster suddenly wouldn't let me put the top up. Just as others described--no noise, and no movement. I went through checking the fuses and the relay, and everything else I saw here and nothing worked.

Finally, I pulled the right switch panel off and disconnects and reconnected the switch, then gave each wire connector on the back a little wiggle and a little push. Voila! The thing worked again. I didn't see anybody say anything about just checking the connection to the switch itself, so I joined to share in hopes it helps somebody.

Convertible drive cables
 

I had my Porsche dealer inspect the roof not working.

The top cables are in need of replacement
Parts 113.40
Labor 497.88
Tax 15.52
Disposal 74.68
Total 701.48!

Is this a good price or anyone in Houston know how to do this cheaper?

Cheers,

Peter Serbanica moved to Longs sc. (Stan's Auto Top)
862-222-4618

Hey, sorry to revive such an old thread, but it's still one of Google's top hits and it was one of the threads that helped me get mine sorted (after pulling info from several sources). I made a fairly comprehensive troubleshooting DIY video as I went through all the advice on what to look for and just wanted to share it here as it's sure to help someone along the way! Thanks to all those that went before me and offered solid advice!

https://youtu.be/xntJKWZpFac​​​​​​​

I took all the problematic top parts out and operate my top manually.

Thankfully I don't have a problem with the top on my wonderful 2000S, it works just fine but I read this thread just to be aware of potential future problems and wanted to weigh in about how impressed I am of Maurice's clear and detailed instructions.

I'm one of those guys that hardly know which end of a screwdriver to hold and usually find instructions to be impossible to understand because most of them are terribly written and incomplete.

Maurice's explanations and instructions are well written and easy to comprehend, even by an "all thumbs" guy like me. I'm confident, if I ever have this problem, I'll be able to try and fix it.

Thanks Maurice,
Larry (the Bald Eagle)