07-10-2012, 05:08 PM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 1
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99 Same Problem with top stuck down
All the information helps but my idiot light for the hand break does not light on the dash when it is engaged. As soon as the vehicle is started it goes out without the parking break released. Already checked the fuses and they are OK. In all the posts I did not see if the light does not work, what does it mean. The convertible relay or the lock sensor switch? Failed the first time ever a few days ago.
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07-10-2012, 07:33 PM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Freeport, New York
Posts: 472
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Quote:
Originally Posted by huskeydad
All the information helps but my idiot light for the hand break does not light on the dash when it is engaged. As soon as the vehicle is started it goes out without the parking break released. Already checked the fuses and they are OK. In all the posts I did not see if the light does not work, what does it mean. The convertible relay or the lock sensor switch? Failed the first time ever a few days ago.
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Since the idiot light is on and then goes out when you start the car, even with the parking brake on, then the culprit is the microswitch at the base of the hand brake.
Sometimes you can get the microswitch to come back to life by vigorously pulling up on the handbrake, then releasing it suddenly, etc... for a few cycles. You might also get away with shooting some heavy duty compressed air at the microswitch, otherwise you will have to replace it.
Your convertible top will not operate without that idiot light going on, unless you get a SmartTop double relay or do the hack that allows you to bypass having to have the parking brake engaged.
Regards, Maurice.
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10-08-2012, 07:39 AM
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 2
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I had the problem with my micro switch at the e-brake for quite some time. My solution was to spray a small amount of silicon lubricant around the switch depression piston and work it up and down a few times. I have not had that issue in three years.
On the other hand, these d*#* micro switches where the top latches, the relay and the latch its self is driving me crazy.
Last edited by jdilbeck; 10-08-2012 at 07:45 AM.
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03-18-2013, 09:50 AM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: atlanta, ga
Posts: 91
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Similar Issue
I also recently noticed that once in a great while, I would unlatch the top, windows would go down a little, but top would not operate. The brake light always came on. I would close it back up, then it would usually work. A couple of weeks ago, I put the top down on a beautiful day. The next morning I nearly froze to death on the way to work because top wouldn't go back up. Had to park in a parking garage. Fuses were fine, took out relay and banged it, and nothing. Tried turning car on and off a few times and nothing. Then on way to shop, it worked fine and I got it back up. Now it's stuck in the closed position...better than open I guess, but absolutely no fun for spring! I FEEL like it may be the toggle switch on the dash. Has anyone had any more success? Any pictures and details of how to test for the dead spot on the motor? And what does that mean anyway?
Richard
2001 boxster
__________________
Richard Griffin
Atlanta GA
2001 blk/tan Boxster 18" turbo twist wheels
2003 gray/tan Navigator
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03-18-2013, 02:59 PM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: indiana
Posts: 10
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I finally tired of all the problems with the power top. I made mine manual, and it is much better and faster than with the electric power. I fought the problems for about a year before giving in, wish that I had done it sooner.
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03-23-2013, 04:29 AM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Longwood, Florida
Posts: 82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by haroldchrismeyer
I finally tired of all the problems with the power top. I made mine manual, and it is much better and faster than with the electric power. I fought the problems for about a year before giving in, wish that I had done it sooner.
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What's involved in making manual. I'm thinking of doing the same.
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08-22-2016, 12:51 PM
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Colorado
Posts: 18
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So the same thing happened to me yesterday. I was driving with the top down, got to work and the top wouldn't go back up. The break light comes on. The light that shows that the top is ooening or closing comes on. I can not get that light to go on or off. Either by trying to go up or by pressing the down button. The lights in the dash dim a bit when I press the button.
'99 boxster
It has never happened before.
After letting it sit all night, it still doesn't work. I have looked at the fuses and the relay. Everything looked ok to me.
Any other things I could try?
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08-22-2016, 01:49 PM
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Freeport, New York
Posts: 472
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Infernicus
So the same thing happened to me yesterday. I was driving with the top down, got to work and the top wouldn't go back up. The break light comes on. The light that shows that the top is ooening or closing comes on. I can not get that light to go on or off. Either by trying to go up or by pressing the down button. The lights in the dash dim a bit when I press the button.
'99 boxster
It has never happened before.
After letting it sit all night, it still doesn't work. I have looked at the fuses and the relay. Everything looked ok to me.
Any other things I could try?
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Your '99 has the "A Version" top transmissions and set up, including the B-Pillar microswitch and the black lever microswitch (directly on top of the electric motor).
If the lights in your dash dim a bit when you press the button, that usually is an indication of too much resistance, something preventing the top from moving. Without more information, it's difficult to determine whether your transmissions "over-rotated" and that is making it difficult to move the top frame assembly (the "A Version" transmissions have a half-moon shaped gear inside, unlike the "B Version", which is a complete 360 degree gear).
One thing you might try to further isolate the problem is to try to power on the electric motor by itself, without it having to drive the cables. To do that, as I described above, pull the upside U-Clip up on each side of the motor and that will allow you to pull the respective cable out of each side of the motor. Then you can press the button and see if the electric motor spins. To completely isolate the motor, you would have to supply separate power from a 12V power source, such as another battery, but try it with the power coming from depressing the switch first.
If you are completely unfamiliar with the location of the parts, take a look at the write-up on Mike Focke's website. There are photos of all of these parts, here: https://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/thetop-itsmaintaince%26replacement
Let us know what happens, if anything, when you do that.
Regards, Maurice.
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08-26-2016, 10:18 AM
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#10
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Colorado
Posts: 18
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Hi! Sorry for the delay. After much searching around, I still couldn't find a problem. Finally, I took it in. I just got a call back, and it is my right top transmission. I just thought I would let you guys know!
Any thoughts on how hard it is to replace one of these?
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08-26-2016, 04:08 PM
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#11
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Freeport, New York
Posts: 472
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Infernicus
Hi! Sorry for the delay. After much searching around, I still couldn't find a problem. Finally, I took it in. I just got a call back, and it is my right top transmission. I just thought I would let you guys know!
Any thoughts on how hard it is to replace one of these?
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It takes about 1/2 hour to remove and replace one of the convertible top transmissions.
After you pull away the foam liner on the inside of the quarter paner, one 19mm nut in the center and three 13mm nuts on the outer perimeter. Instructions are in the link I posted in response to one of your posts.
Regards, Maurice.
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