I had the problem with my micro switch at the e-brake for quite some time. My solution was to spray a small amount of silicon lubricant around the switch depression piston and work it up and down a few times. I have not had that issue in three years.

On the other hand, these d*#* micro switches where the top latches, the relay and the latch its self is driving me crazy.

Similar Issue
 

I also recently noticed that once in a great while, I would unlatch the top, windows would go down a little, but top would not operate. The brake light always came on. I would close it back up, then it would usually work. A couple of weeks ago, I put the top down on a beautiful day. The next morning I nearly froze to death on the way to work because top wouldn't go back up. Had to park in a parking garage. Fuses were fine, took out relay and banged it, and nothing. Tried turning car on and off a few times and nothing. Then on way to shop, it worked fine and I got it back up. Now it's stuck in the closed position...better than open I guess, but absolutely no fun for spring! I FEEL like it may be the toggle switch on the dash. Has anyone had any more success? Any pictures and details of how to test for the dead spot on the motor? And what does that mean anyway?

Richard
2001 boxster

I finally tired of all the problems with the power top. I made mine manual, and it is much better and faster than with the electric power. I fought the problems for about a year before giving in, wish that I had done it sooner.

What's involved in making manual. I'm thinking of doing the same.

Here you go: http://986forum.com/forums/general-discussions/43235-why-i-converted-manual-top.html

Tried fixes, help please
 

First started:
I put the top down, wouldn't go up, emergency brake like goes on and off fine, tried auto button near the roof latch to reset but nothing (windows go up and down like normal). To protect from the rain I had to manually pull as well as press "up" to close the roof now it won't open. The open/in progress warning light will not go off even though the roof is closed.

Tried checking and taking the the 2x fuses and 2x relay switches in and out to remove corrosion. Still nothing. When I press the open and close button it sounds like something is trying to work behind me for 1 second and the rear body part that opens for the roof to fold into looks like it moves slightly.

Please help with any more ideas or fixes.

Many thanks!

James

If you are getting a little movement as you describe (and you were able to "assist" the top's movement), it sounds like one or both of the drive cables are either retracted inside their respective sheaths, or are frayed/twisted, or there is a wear problem inside one or both of the transmissions (under the V-levers).

What year is your Boxster (do you have the "A Version" or "B Version" transmissions and setup installed)?

Is there a black triangle or a black square on the visible face of the double relay when installed?

Regards, Maurice.

Thanks for the reply. Sorry for my late reply as I wasn't getting alerted to your questions and out of the country.

I have a 2003 Boxster base/stock model - pic attached. - Not sure what you mean by A or B transmission? 5 Speed manual.

Double relay has a black Square painted on the double rely. Pic attached.

What do I do to fix?

Thanks for your help!

The black square indicates that you have the "B Version" convertible top transmissions and set up, which is what was installed at the factory on all MY 2000 to 2004 Boxsters.

Again, because you described a little movement, the first place I would look is at the end of each of the two cables that drive the transmissions. You can check them for length to make sure that they are being driven by the electric motor by first lifting up the upside down U clip that holds them against the sides of the electric motor. If the inner cable is not sticking out by about 1/2 inch from the end of the outer sheath, that is probably your problem. Otherwise, you will have to investigate at the other end of the cables (the transmission end).

Try what I described above and report back.

Regards, Maurice.

So the same thing happened to me yesterday. I was driving with the top down, got to work and the top wouldn't go back up. The break light comes on. The light that shows that the top is ooening or closing comes on. I can not get that light to go on or off. Either by trying to go up or by pressing the down button. The lights in the dash dim a bit when I press the button.

'99 boxster
It has never happened before.

After letting it sit all night, it still doesn't work. I have looked at the fuses and the relay. Everything looked ok to me.

Any other things I could try?

Your '99 has the "A Version" top transmissions and set up, including the B-Pillar microswitch and the black lever microswitch (directly on top of the electric motor).

If the lights in your dash dim a bit when you press the button, that usually is an indication of too much resistance, something preventing the top from moving. Without more information, it's difficult to determine whether your transmissions "over-rotated" and that is making it difficult to move the top frame assembly (the "A Version" transmissions have a half-moon shaped gear inside, unlike the "B Version", which is a complete 360 degree gear).

One thing you might try to further isolate the problem is to try to power on the electric motor by itself, without it having to drive the cables. To do that, as I described above, pull the upside U-Clip up on each side of the motor and that will allow you to pull the respective cable out of each side of the motor. Then you can press the button and see if the electric motor spins. To completely isolate the motor, you would have to supply separate power from a 12V power source, such as another battery, but try it with the power coming from depressing the switch first.

If you are completely unfamiliar with the location of the parts, take a look at the write-up on Mike Focke's website. There are photos of all of these parts, here: https://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/thetop-itsmaintaince%26replacement

Let us know what happens, if anything, when you do that.

Regards, Maurice.

Hi! Sorry for the delay. After much searching around, I still couldn't find a problem. Finally, I took it in. I just got a call back, and it is my right top transmission. I just thought I would let you guys know!

Any thoughts on how hard it is to replace one of these?

It takes about 1/2 hour to remove and replace one of the convertible top transmissions.

After you pull away the foam liner on the inside of the quarter paner, one 19mm nut in the center and three 13mm nuts on the outer perimeter. Instructions are in the link I posted in response to one of your posts.

Regards, Maurice.

Confused?
 

Do you have photos or videos on how to do this? Not clear on how to access this area.

"first place I would look is at the end of each of the two cables that drive the transmissions. You can check them for length to make sure that they are being driven by the electric motor by first lifting up the upside down U clip that holds them against the sides of the electric motor. If the inner cable is not sticking out by about 1/2 inch from the end of the outer sheath, that is probably your problem. Otherwise, you will have to investigate at the other end of the cables (the transmission end).

Thank you,

Switch
 

I discovered this thread, and this forum, because my 2001 Boxster suddenly wouldn't let me put the top up. Just as others described--no noise, and no movement. I went through checking the fuses and the relay, and everything else I saw here and nothing worked.

Finally, I pulled the right switch panel off and disconnects and reconnected the switch, then gave each wire connector on the back a little wiggle and a little push. Voila! The thing worked again. I didn't see anybody say anything about just checking the connection to the switch itself, so I joined to share in hopes it helps somebody.

Convertible drive cables
 

I had my Porsche dealer inspect the roof not working.

The top cables are in need of replacement
Parts 113.40
Labor 497.88
Tax 15.52
Disposal 74.68
Total 701.48!

Is this a good price or anyone in Houston know how to do this cheaper?

Cheers,

Peter Serbanica moved to Longs sc. (Stan's Auto Top)
862-222-4618

Hey, sorry to revive such an old thread, but it's still one of Google's top hits and it was one of the threads that helped me get mine sorted (after pulling info from several sources). I made a fairly comprehensive troubleshooting DIY video as I went through all the advice on what to look for and just wanted to share it here as it's sure to help someone along the way! Thanks to all those that went before me and offered solid advice!

https://youtu.be/xntJKWZpFac​​​​​​​

I took all the problematic top parts out and operate my top manually.

Thankfully I don't have a problem with the top on my wonderful 2000S, it works just fine but I read this thread just to be aware of potential future problems and wanted to weigh in about how impressed I am of Maurice's clear and detailed instructions.

I'm one of those guys that hardly know which end of a screwdriver to hold and usually find instructions to be impossible to understand because most of them are terribly written and incomplete.

Maurice's explanations and instructions are well written and easy to comprehend, even by an "all thumbs" guy like me. I'm confident, if I ever have this problem, I'll be able to try and fix it.

Thanks Maurice,
Larry (the Bald Eagle)