09-23-2010, 10:18 AM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: trenton nj
Posts: 449
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you want to put a lot of heat real fast to the flange and try not to get the stud hot. you want the flange to expand not the stud. once you get the flange almost cherry red use a drift [punch] to drive out the stud. hit the broken part of the stud
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09-23-2010, 10:34 AM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Baltimore
Posts: 76
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by extanker
you want to put a lot of heat real fast to the flange and try not to get the stud hot. you want the flange to expand not the stud. once you get the flange almost cherry red use a drift [punch] to drive out the stud. hit the broken part of the stud
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Thanks, I'll give that a try.
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2003 Porsche Boxster S
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09-23-2010, 04:43 PM
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Southern New jersey
Posts: 1,054
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I forget the name, but they sell "freeze out" in parts stores. Same idea as heating, plus it contains some penetrating oil, possibly in addition to heat?
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09-24-2010, 06:22 AM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Baltimore
Posts: 76
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by stephen wilson
I forget the name, but they sell "freeze out" in parts stores. Same idea as heating, plus it contains some penetrating oil, possibly in addition to heat?
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Do you have a brand name? I am not sure what you are refering to.
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2003 Porsche Boxster S
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09-24-2010, 08:17 AM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: San Diego
Posts: 200
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I believe Loctite makes freezout. A friend used it to remove some wheel studs and he said it worked as advertised.
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09-24-2010, 09:10 AM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Southern New jersey
Posts: 1,054
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09-24-2010, 10:42 AM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Baltimore
Posts: 76
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by stephen wilson
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Awesome, looks like it might help. Now my only problem is finding someone around Baltimore that sells it.
__________________
2003 Porsche Boxster S
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09-24-2010, 07:05 PM
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Baltimore
Posts: 76
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by extanker
you want to put a lot of heat real fast to the flange and try not to get the stud hot. you want the flange to expand not the stud. once you get the flange almost cherry red use a drift [punch] to drive out the stud. hit the broken part of the stud
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So I tried the heat technique tonight and I still couldn't get the studs to budge. It seems almost impossible to get the flange hot without getting the studs hot in order to drive it out. It almost seems like if I keep going with the heat that when I go to drive it out of the flange, the metal is going to start distorting. Really not trying to pay for new headers and midpipes.
If anyone is looking to get rid of some secondary cat-bypass pipes for a good price, I may take that route
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2003 Porsche Boxster S
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09-24-2010, 08:25 PM
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Indiana
Posts: 179
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Same thing happened to me when I installed my secondary cat bypass pipes. Just find an expendable bolt that's the same size as the hole in the flange, and pound out the stud with a hammer against the bolt. Try not to hit your fingers while you're holding the bolt. Hit it like you mean it. It will come out.
Alternatively, you can take a die grinder and grind off the head of the stud, then pound the stud out from that side.
__________________
2002 Boxster S, 6 speed, Speed Yellow
Flat Six Innovations 3.8L Stage II Track Performer, RoW M030 Suspension, B&M Short Shift Kit, Fabspeed Bypass Pipes, FVD Brombacher "Sound Version" Muffler, UD Pulley, Low Temp T-Stat.
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09-25-2010, 04:28 AM
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#10
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: trenton nj
Posts: 449
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by gwoodburn
So I tried the heat technique tonight and I still couldn't get the studs to budge. It seems almost impossible to get the flange hot without getting the studs hot in order to drive it out. It almost seems like if I keep going with the heat that when I go to drive it out of the flange, the metal is going to start distorting. Really not trying to pay for new headers and midpipes.
If anyone is looking to get rid of some secondary cat-bypass pipes for a good price, I may take that route 
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thats why i said a good torch [a propane torch doesnt count] it maybe time to find a muffler shop that will do it
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09-29-2010, 06:43 AM
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#11
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Baltimore
Posts: 76
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Stephan Smith
Both the GSR and B16 will drop in with mounts, axles, shift linkage, and the correct ECU. As long as the motors are 96 and up. You can use your OEM harness.
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Haha, what??? GSR? B16? Sorry Steve, I am not following you. I think you're in the wrong forum. This one is for Porsche, not Honda/Acura.
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2003 Porsche Boxster S
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09-29-2010, 08:10 AM
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#12
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Sanford NC
Posts: 2,595
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Smith's message is purely an attemp to get links
listed on this forum so that search engines will rank them important because they are often linked to. SPAM. Some forum s/w has the ability to report such postings to the moderator. Not sure how to do it here.
This just started happening on lots of forums recently, someone must have automated the way it is done as it often uses key words that seem on the surface to have something to do with the original posting...but are pure gibberish.
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09-29-2010, 08:21 AM
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#13
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Baltimore
Posts: 76
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by mikefocke
listed on this forum so that search engines will rank them important because they are often linked to. SPAM. Some forum s/w has the ability to report such postings to the moderator. Not sure how to do it here.
This just started happening on lots of forums recently, someone must have automated the way it is done as it often uses key words that seem on the surface to have something to do with the original posting...but are pure gibberish.
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Yeah i realized that was going on after I started seeing his random posts on other threads. Also, I noticed the links under his post.
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2003 Porsche Boxster S
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