3.4L Motor Swap Underway!

[Gilles]

[QUOTE=insite] so, my choices are: rent/borrow a pick-up (mine is an SUV; getting the motor in & out is probably not gonna happen) & drive it up to cleavland, ga (1.5hrs)

Insite: I had used my wife's Volvo V70 (wagon) 'with tan interior', one time to transport a V6 Alfa engine, thereafter an Alfa transaxle..
I folded the rear seats and used plastic lining to protect the carpet (the ones you use for painting the house) and heavy, thick cardbox to protect the plastic, the engine was heavy enough so no shifting occurred and no stain damage to the tan interior, of course taking the turns slowly...


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[insite]

[QUOTE=Gilles]

Originally Posted by insite

so, my choices are: rent/borrow a pick-up (mine is an SUV; getting the motor in & out is probably not gonna happen) & drive it up to cleavland, ga (1.5hrs)

Insite: I had used my wife's Volvo V70 (wagon) 'with tan interior', one time to transport a V6 Alfa engine, thereafter an Alfa transaxle..
I folded the rear seats and used plastic lining to protect the carpet (the ones you use for painting the house) and heavy, thick cardbox to protect the plastic, the engine was heavy enough so no shifting occurred and no stain damage to the tan interior, of course taking the turns slowly...

thanks, gilles. my concern is more w/ the engine & hoist arm both clearing the opening.


anyone on here time one of these motors before? looking through the factory manual, FEAR here seems to me to be much ado about nothing. my issue isn't really with the cam alignment between intake & exhaust; it's timing of the exhasut cam w/ respect to the crank.

can i not just pull the extraction pump, loosen the sprocket bolts & line the cams back up with my match marks? it seems that all the factory tool does is to rotate the exhaust cam until the notch points exactly at the intake cam. am i missing something?

[Gilles]

[QUOTE=insite] can i not just pull the extraction pump, loosen the sprocket bolts & line the cams back up with my match marks?
/QUOTE]

Insite,
With past experiences, as long as you align both marks on the intake/exhaust cams (@ TDC) "AND" rotate rotate the complete assembly afterward a couple of times
to double check your marks, you should be ready to roll.

However, I have never done it on this particular engine, therefore it would be nice if someone that actually has done it chimes in.

Great post, please keep the comments and pics coming

.

[insite]

okay, so necessity is the mother of invention. how to make a 996/boxster cam timing tool for ten bucks:

1. find a socket that just BARELY fits into this hole. for me it was a 21mm.







2. find a wood bore drill bit that BARELY fits into the socket. for me, it was 15/16.







3. cut the end off the drill bit & cut the tip off the drill bit, leaving about 5mm protruding from the tip.






4. put the cut piece into the socket. voila, you have a 1/2" drive porsche cam rotation tool.





now time your cams. more to follow.

[chaudanova]

^^ Brilliant! Love the innovation...

[Cloudsurfer]

Very ingenious indeed. Unfortunately, you are going to need more than just a tool to turn the cam to get it back into time. You really need the timing tools, and the auxiliary tensioners.

[insite]

Originally Posted by Cloudsurfer

Very ingenious indeed. Unfortunately, you are going to need more than just a tool to turn the cam to get it back into time. You really need the timing tools, and the auxiliary tensioners.

what makes you think that? i understand the process fairly well, but i've never timed one of these.

[Gilles]

Originally Posted by Cloudsurfer

Very ingenious indeed. Unfortunately, you are going to need more than just a tool to turn the cam to get it back into time. You really need the timing tools, and the auxiliary tensioners.

Ok it seems that the cam on the picture has jumped one teeth, and the cam obviously is still connected to the timing chain.

Question, if you 'loose' the chain tension as much as possible, would this allow you to rotate the cam (jumping teeth on purpose, one at the time) until you get back to the timing mark?

The cam phasing I have done in the past has always been on 'belted' engines, never with a chain which must be much harder, is this doable at all?

Or do you have to remove the valve cover to remove the chain from the cam sprocket, re-align the cam and then re-install the chain?

My questions here are pure curiosity and personal learning purposes, no criticism intended to anyone else comments.
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