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Old 10-01-2010, 11:10 AM   #1
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I havent used the crc stuff but the loctite version is great. Maybe they cheaped out on the crc stuff?
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Old 10-01-2010, 11:54 AM   #2
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well, you know that anytime you need to dig out the '**************** we'd better not need', it's either gonna be a really good day, or a really bad one.....





started off welding nuts to the exhaust studs; no good. the metal is REALLY soft, so looks like drilling is the way to go.

they, i decided to put the oil pump back on . well, the flange wasn't lined up. i set TDC & removed the tensioner. still wouldn't line up. unfortunately, it was stuck between teeth on the timing chain. i finally got it aligned, but i'm pretty sure it jumped a tooth.

i called ProFormance Place & they don't have the tools. i called the dealer & they told me that it would be $1,700 to re-time ONE SIDE with the engine removed! ha! i called flat6 & they'll do it for @85/hr; it would probably be fairly reasonable.

so, my choices are: rent/borrow a pick-up (mine is an SUV; getting the motor in & out is probably not gonna happen) & drive it up to cleavland, ga (1.5hrs) or buy the timing tools ($485).

that, or maybe someone here will loan / rent them to me? argh!


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Old 10-01-2010, 12:06 PM   #3
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That sucks. Thats great that you are so close to flat6. I think its time well spent to borrow a truck and get the motor to them for re-timing just to be safe. Hope it goes well, im watching your progress!
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Old 10-01-2010, 12:16 PM   #4
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SUV as parts hauler

[QUOTE=insite] so, my choices are: rent/borrow a pick-up (mine is an SUV; getting the motor in & out is probably not gonna happen) & drive it up to cleavland, ga (1.5hrs)

Insite: I had used my wife's Volvo V70 (wagon) 'with tan interior', one time to transport a V6 Alfa engine, thereafter an Alfa transaxle..
I folded the rear seats and used plastic lining to protect the carpet (the ones you use for painting the house) and heavy, thick cardbox to protect the plastic, the engine was heavy enough so no shifting occurred and no stain damage to the tan interior, of course taking the turns slowly...


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Old 10-01-2010, 12:50 PM   #5
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[QUOTE=Gilles]
Quote:
Originally Posted by insite
so, my choices are: rent/borrow a pick-up (mine is an SUV; getting the motor in & out is probably not gonna happen) & drive it up to cleavland, ga (1.5hrs)

Insite: I had used my wife's Volvo V70 (wagon) 'with tan interior', one time to transport a V6 Alfa engine, thereafter an Alfa transaxle..
I folded the rear seats and used plastic lining to protect the carpet (the ones you use for painting the house) and heavy, thick cardbox to protect the plastic, the engine was heavy enough so no shifting occurred and no stain damage to the tan interior, of course taking the turns slowly...

thanks, gilles. my concern is more w/ the engine & hoist arm both clearing the opening.


anyone on here time one of these motors before? looking through the factory manual, FEAR here seems to me to be much ado about nothing. my issue isn't really with the cam alignment between intake & exhaust; it's timing of the exhasut cam w/ respect to the crank.

can i not just pull the extraction pump, loosen the sprocket bolts & line the cams back up with my match marks? it seems that all the factory tool does is to rotate the exhaust cam until the notch points exactly at the intake cam. am i missing something?
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Old 10-01-2010, 06:08 PM   #6
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[QUOTE=insite] can i not just pull the extraction pump, loosen the sprocket bolts & line the cams back up with my match marks?
/QUOTE]

Insite,
With past experiences, as long as you align both marks on the intake/exhaust cams (@ TDC) "AND" rotate rotate the complete assembly afterward a couple of times
to double check your marks, you should be ready to roll.

However, I have never done it on this particular engine, therefore it would be nice if someone that actually has done it chimes in.

Great post, please keep the comments and pics coming

.

Last edited by Gilles; 10-01-2010 at 08:30 PM.
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Old 10-02-2010, 01:33 PM   #7
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okay, so necessity is the mother of invention. how to make a 996/boxster cam timing tool for ten bucks:

1. find a socket that just BARELY fits into this hole. for me it was a 21mm.







2. find a wood bore drill bit that BARELY fits into the socket. for me, it was 15/16.







3. cut the end off the drill bit & cut the tip off the drill bit, leaving about 5mm protruding from the tip.






4. put the cut piece into the socket. voila, you have a 1/2" drive porsche cam rotation tool.





now time your cams. more to follow.
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Old 10-02-2010, 06:40 PM   #8
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^^ Brilliant! Love the innovation...
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Some stuff for sale: M030 S 24mm front sway bar, M030 base 19.6mm rear sway bar, 996 GT3 OEM Porsche Motorsport front strut mounts monoball "camber plates"

WTB: looking for some 5-7mm spacers with extended bolts
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