Low Temp. Thermostat Install

[blinkwatt]

http://www.lnengineering.com/lowtemperaturethermostat.html

How hard is it to install? Any special tools required? How much time for a newb to install one?

[ddb]

Blinkwatt,

I installed one a few weeks ago and it was quite easy. It was harder getting the car properly positioned on jack stands than removing and replacing the thermostat. I was replacing a bad water pump so I had already drained the coolant which made it easier. If you haven't replaced your coolant (I hadn't) this is a good time to do so. The thermostat actually comes installed in a new housing and it comes with a new gasket. Since installing mine I've been monitoring coolant temperatures via the ac diagnostics and running between 178 -185 F while moving down the road.

Go for it!


ddb

No special tools needed. There's 4 or 5 bolts that get torqued to 7 ft. lbs. if I remember correctly.

Once the coolant is drained it shouldn't take more than 30 minutes to remove and replace the thermostat. Of course it probably took me more time, but I'm old and slow.

[Jake Raby]

The install is the EXACT SAME as the stock thermostat... The only PITA about the whole job is bleeding the cooling system.

Every engine I complete gets the low temp thermostat and both my Boxster and 911 have one. They work... I have the data, collect it every day.

[jmatta]

I can second the simple install process. My Box had 15k miles on it and was seven years old when I decided to upgrade the t-stat (coolant needed to be changed anyway). It honestly took longer to raise the car up and drain the old coolant than it did to replace the t-stat.

I removed the drain plug on the bottom and let it drain for about 20 minutes (be certain to open the coolant tank cap). The big hose that needs to be pulled from the old t-stat drains A LOT of coolant, so be prepared. The bolts holding the stat came right out and are pretty easy to get to.

When replacing the t-stat, be very careful of the mating surfaces; there should be no old gasket material (mine came right off in one piece). Fill her up with OEM coolant and distilled water 50/50 blend and bleed. I simply drove around for a couple days with the bleeder valve open, topping occasionally ubntil the level quit falling.

Car now runs cooler and is happy with new coolant. Thanks Jake and Charles!

[Sputter]

It looks nice with the tan interior. Clearly you look after the paint too.

Originally Posted by jmatta

I can second the simple install process. My Box had 15k miles on it and was seven years old when I decided to upgrade the t-stat (coolant needed to be changed anyway). It honestly took longer to raise the car up and drain the old coolant than it did to replace the t-stat.

I removed the drain plug on the bottom and let it drain for about 20 minutes (be certain to open the coolant tank cap). The big hose that needs to be pulled from the old t-stat drains A LOT of coolant, so be prepared. The bolts holding the stat came right out and are pretty easy to get to.

When replacing the t-stat, be very careful of the mating surfaces; there should be no old gasket material (mine came right off in one piece). Fill her up with OEM coolant and distilled water 50/50 blend and bleed. I simply drove around for a couple days with the bleeder valve open, topping occasionally ubntil the level quit falling.

Car now runs cooler and is happy with new coolant. Thanks Jake and Charles!

[blinkwatt]

You didn't bleed the coolant right after?

[jmatta]

The bleeder valve is located right to the filler. I let the car run a bit to get it up to temp and brought the revs up, as mentioned in prior posts. That removes some of the air, but most came out in just normal driving (I drove mine with the valve open to my other home in Wisconsin; about 125 miles). There is no harm in driving with the valve open; infact I found that when the system was completely bled, the valve tended to close on it's own.

[Jake Raby]

Proper, thorough bleeding is necessary..
These engines have a ton of areas within the cylinder heads and blocks where air pockets can form that lead to hot spots... These hot spots can end up leading to cracked heads and cylinders.

To aid with bleeding you can turn the heat wide open and open up the coolant to the heater core which is at the end of the cooling system.. I usually rive cars a few miles with the bleeder open after having the cooling system opened up for service. In most of these test drives the cooling system will usually "puke" one good time out the overflow tube and then its all good to go after being topped off with coolant.

But I recommend pressure bleeding... Its the only way to ensure all the air pockets are removed.

[70Sixter]

The Bentley manual shows a special tool is required. But the T-stat ships with an new housing as ddb posted, so the 9627 tool is not required .

And 7 lb-ft is correct, so you remembered correctly, ddb!