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Old 02-26-2005, 12:29 PM   #1
Lux
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Interesting. Looking at your temps, there is a significant increase in temp when the car at idle. This definitely is attributing to your low numbers just off idle. Looks like the stock airbox does well in insulating the engine heat. It's kinda weird that the Evo shows a lower temp at 55mph than stock though. You would expect that since the stock airbox insulates better at standstill, it should be lower in temp at 55mph also...unless it is still storing heat. But you've also tested running to 55mph from start (cold I assume?) so that kinda rules it out. Regardless, it looks like both are running around the same temps at 55mph...94-96 degrees.

Before going to GIAC, you should get your a/f measured. And not with the sensor that goes in the tailpipe as that is not very accurate. You'll have to drill into your headers pre-cat and attach the sensor there. Afterall, if your a/f looks fine, then the issue is with the intake. If your a/f is out of whack, then at least you know you need the GIAC.
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Old 02-26-2005, 09:06 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lux
Before going to GIAC, you should get your a/f measured. And not with the sensor that goes in the tailpipe as that is not very accurate. You'll have to drill into your headers pre-cat and attach the sensor there. Afterall, if your a/f looks fine, then the issue is with the intake. If your a/f is out of whack, then at least you know you need the GIAC.
That's something to consider. My Dansk manifold already has a pre-drilled hole for the factory O2 sensor that came with 2002 and above cars. That'll save me the trouble of drilling and welding.

Anyway, my local mechanic has suggested that perhaps, the supplied K&N filter is too small and may be a reason for a lower bhp reading. Basically, smaller surface area for intake will result in less air. I'm going to remove the filter next week and replace it with a VERY fine wire mesh over the intake tube. Go for dyno and see the results. If the dyno reading is higher, then his theory will be right.

And by the way, I made sure during dyno, the intake temp was normalised to about 45 deg C in both before/after runs... So that removes the air temp factor during the run.
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Old 02-26-2005, 09:16 PM   #3
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I hope you go for the GIAC Clubehead because nobody on here has it as far as I know. I am interested in possibly upgrading someday but I don't want to be the guinnie pig. GIAC has done wonders for other cars, so I'm willing to bet the gains will be worth time and money.
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Old 02-26-2005, 10:56 PM   #4
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I hope you go for the GIAC Clubehead because nobody on here has it as far as I know. I am interested in possibly upgrading someday but I don't want to be the guinnie pig. GIAC has done wonders for other cars, so I'm willing to bet the gains will be worth time and money.
And sometimes I wonder why I'm just about the only one posting dyno reports and everyone else is asking for experiences and not wanting to be the guinea pig
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Old 02-26-2005, 11:19 PM   #5
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Well, I just want to let you know that your hard work has not gone unoticed or unappreciated. I will be more in the upgrade market later, but I need some of this warranty to expire first. Your reports have swayed me torwards Dansk parts when I finally do take that plunge.
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Old 02-27-2005, 06:13 AM   #6
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"And sometimes I wonder why I'm just about the only one posting dyno reports and everyone else is asking for experiences and not wanting to be the guinea pig "

I think the reaon is obvious based on what you are going through. How many folks want to spend the time and money on an upgrade that gives the appearance of a downgrade?

These component makers are selling a bill of goods UNLESS they can make this stuff WORK FOR YOU! You paid your hard earned money for more performance, not less.
Seems like they should step up and solve this issue for you and not the other way around!

Just my two cents.
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Old 02-27-2005, 11:12 AM   #7
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I think you'll see more and more people mod their Boxsters now that they've come down in price and more enthusiasts are picking them up. But I think you're going to be the "guinea pig" for a while... Too many people use the "butt dyno" and just assume they're getting more power.

With that said, I have to agree with Bruce somewhat. Bolting on stuff is great. But it also takes a lot of time and money. And unless you dyno (like you do), you'll never know if your car is running right or if the mods even work. But on the other hand, I do think that the Boxster is choked at the intake and exhaust manifold so you are definitely doing the right things.

Your posts have been very informative though. Keep up the good work.
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Old 03-04-2005, 09:04 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adam
I hope you go for the GIAC Clubehead because nobody on here has it as far as I know. I am interested in possibly upgrading someday but I don't want to be the guinnie pig. GIAC has done wonders for other cars, so I'm willing to bet the gains will be worth time and money.
Got in touch with EVO today and they told me the price for the GIAC program has come down to $795 from $1,195! Unfortunately, they don't have a program that caters for 98 Octane fuel But they did claim that the ECU will automatically adjust to a more aggressive ignition timing to cater for higher octane fuel... But if that's the case, why bother with a re-program Still trying to figure things out....
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Old 03-04-2005, 04:40 PM   #9
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30 day money back warranty!!

If they send it and you do not see the numbers thay claim with an EVO send it back, get the stock reflash and get your money back. Could be the best route to take.
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Old 03-05-2005, 11:33 PM   #10
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May be a faulty MAF afterall :(

Found this thread by chance while browsing through Renntech for instructions to remove my softtop : http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=906

Much as I hate to, all this bhp/torque loss with the Evo intake may be due to a faulty MAF afterall I'm still asking whether the dealership can tell reliably through their diagnostic equipment that my MAF is faulty rather than IMPLYING it's faulty because of a too rich air/fuel ratio. It'll probably cost me $1,000 to change the damn thing Arrrgh!

While I'm on this, does anyone knows whether the S model uses the latest MAF model? Reason I'm asking if my car is already using the later model of MAF, I can just buy it off the web and replace the thing myself without having the dealership to re-program the DME to recognise the new model MAF. Will save me some money....

Last edited by clubhead; 03-05-2005 at 11:36 PM.
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Old 03-09-2005, 01:39 AM   #11
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Did the routine 15k service today and asked OPC to run on a test on the MAF. Everything checked out fine. They're not able to tell the A/F ratio, just voltages from the MAF which was well within the specific range....
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