Getting ready to do the dreaded coolant reservoir change - 986 Forum - The Community for Porsche Boxster & Cayman Owners

986_Ron · 04-12-2009, 06:55 PM

Started leaking on me last fall. Was able to get through the winter with the cooler temps but the last drive I took on a warm day it dumped a bunch of coolant out by the right rear wheel well. I've got a new tank on the way from Sunset Imports. Can anyone that has done this recommend any special tools that will make the job any easier?

j.fro · 04-13-2009, 02:14 AM

Get a long set of needlenose pliers and some screw type clamps to replace the stock spring clamps.
and a box of band-aids

Travis · 04-13-2009, 01:35 PM

Ron

Did this job a couple of weeks ago, invest in hose clamp pliers

Then go for the clamp on the engine side of the firewall through the top, if you stand on the passenger side of car and face towards the front you can reach back with left hand and feel the clamp while holding the end of pliers and hook onto clamp while holding the plier handle in your right ready to squeeze close.

All other connections are via the trunk.

Also no need to drain radiator just reservoir.

Good luck.

986_Ron · 04-13-2009, 02:39 PM

Travis, thank you! Just the kind of info I was looking for. Looks like my local Sears has one.

Did you re-use the squeeze clamps on the new res or go with the screw type that j.fro recommends?

Travis · 04-13-2009, 03:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 986_Ron

Travis, thank you! Just the kind of info I was looking for. Looks like my local Sears has one.

Did you re-use the squeeze clamps on the new res or go with the screw type that j.fro recommends?

I actually re-used my clamps as they were in great shape and really could not see it being easier to try and use a screwdriver to get it off if there were to be a next time.

Also one more tip for you, the three hose connections from the trunk side to the reservoir - make sure to mark them as to where they go or layout as removed, diameter of the inside of hose are different.

Once all clamps off, hoses disconnected and screws are out you will have to pull HARD to remove (make sure all are disconnected)

986_Ron · 04-19-2009, 11:17 AM

Got the tank, and hose clamp pliers. Ready to go, but it's raining today and don't have room right now to pull it in the garage. One final question for you Travis, am I going to have to get at this from underneath or can I do everything from above?

Ckrikos · 04-03-2013, 08:55 AM

My cooling system recently went and I wish I replaced the tank as well as the pump and thermostat, just so that I dont have to worry about it in the future. The mechanic insisted the tank was fine, but now its allowing condensation through the bleeder so I need to fool around with it.

Does the cooling system need to be completely flushed and bled if you change out the tank? Can you just remove the coolant in the tank and hose and just replace when complete?

embryoguy@mac.com · 04-26-2013, 09:16 PM

sorry if this is obvious but with the new tank, no need for dipstick at all than? does it seal it shut? kinda like the dip stick as a secondary check.

shadrach74 · 04-27-2013, 05:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by embryoguy@mac.com

sorry if this is obvious but with the new tank, no need for dipstick at all than? does it seal it shut? kinda like the dip stick as a secondary check.

What dipstick? The only dipstick I'm aware of is for oil and has nothing to do with the coolant tank.

They are next to each other and share a thin plastic cover... That is all.

I hope you're working with detailed instructions.

Mark_T · 04-27-2013, 06:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by embryoguy@mac.com

sorry if this is obvious but with the new tank, no need for dipstick at all than? does it seal it shut? kinda like the dip stick as a secondary check.

I think for the older models that still have a dipstick you should make a hole like there was in the old tank mounting plate so that you can re-install the dipstick. That's what I did anyway. The location for it is marked on the new tank.

enroute1 · 04-27-2013, 06:37 AM

Are the new tanks made any better or supposed to last longer?
How many miles or years should you expect to get out of an original tank?

shadrach74 · 04-27-2013, 06:39 AM

My bad, I did not realize the newest tanks had a blank where the dipstick used to be. I would definitely keep the dipstick!!!

clickman · 08-22-2013, 01:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mark_T

I think for the older models that still have a dipstick you should make a hole like there was in the old tank mounting plate so that you can re-install the dipstick. That's what I did anyway. The location for it is marked on the new tank.

Dipstick depth is obviously critical. The pic above of the original unit makes it look like the depth is controlled by a boss, which is missing on the replacement. How did you make sure the dipstick was sitting in the same relative position at the end of the day?

Steve Tinker · 07-16-2013, 01:09 AM

No - you can re-use the original sensor as long as it is working OK.

Mark_T · 07-16-2013, 06:16 AM

I replaced the sensor as it was relatively inexpensive and it didn't make sense to me not to replace the sensor when I was in there already replacing the tank and cap. I don't think there is a right or wrong, it's more of a personal judgement call.

ilikeching · 08-08-2013, 12:56 PM

Hi,
thanks to 986 Ron for this thread and others like Pedros garage, i managed to change the coolant tank my self, it was PITA to work at the engine compartment.....
Did get the clamp plier tool, but it cracked on me the first try, so i managed to use needlenose pliers With a bit of luck...so a tip, don't buy cheap ebay tools and get a quality one instead.
Thanks to this forum and i'll hope none of you gonna work on the coolant reservoir in the future....