Flywheel Replacement???

[Cloudsurfer]

I would suggest changing it while there to guarantee a good fix. For a marginal extra fee, you can upgrade to a lightweight flywheel, which really improves the rev response of the motor (and hypothetically reduces the propensity for RMS leaks).

Patrick

[insite]

there are a couple of reasons to change it out while you're in there. first, you cannot machine the surface on the OEM dual mass flywheel (DMF). this means that the friction surface will not be optimal when you install the new clutch; your new clutch probably wouldn't last as long. also, there is an elastomer on that connects the two halves of the DMF; as it decays, driveline shocks are no longer properly damped. this can affect a lot of things including comfort, noise and driveline longevity.

when i pulled my transmission, it was clear that my DMF was totally shot; the elastomer didn't perform as it should & there were hotspots all over the mating surface. i replaced the DMF with an Aasco lightweight aluminum flywheel and a custom spring centered clutch from Spec. total cost was about $200 more than if i'd have gone with a new OEM flywheel and Sachs clutch. the LWF is a nice performance upgrade; it does take some getting used to from a drivability perspective, but i love mine. as an added feature, if you ever do a clutch again, you can replace the mating surface on the Aasco FW for $100 (it unscrews).

[TimAustinW]

So if you were going to replace your clutch and flywheel would it be a good rule of thumb to put in a new flywheel seal (RMS)? My Boxster is nearing 83K miles and I was told six months ago that I'd probably need to replace my clutch in six months. I've read here that lower mileage cars are more prone to RMS failure so will a new clutch, flywheel and new RMS open the possibility back up to RMS failure?

[insite]

Originally Posted by TimAustinW

So if you were going to replace your clutch and flywheel would it be a good rule of thumb to put in a new flywheel seal (RMS)? My Boxster is nearing 83K miles and I was told six months ago that I'd probably need to replace my clutch in six months. I've read here that lower mileage cars are more prone to RMS failure so will a new clutch, flywheel and new RMS open the possibility back up to RMS failure?

flywheel or no, replace the RMS everytime you have the tranny off. $20 insurance policy. if you haven't done it yet, replace the IMS bolts and rear case bolts with the microencapsulated versions.

BTW, there are some people who think that if you're lucky enough to have one that doesn't leak, don't replace it or you risk a leak with the new seal. this is garbage; the leaky cars leak because of out-of round issues on the case.

[986Porsche986]

Thanks for all the great feedback!! I will definitely change out the flywheel and RMS. Never heard of the microencapsulated bolts. Is this a bolt upgrade from Porsche or an aftermarket upgrade? Where can I buy these?

[insite]

Originally Posted by 986Porsche986

Thanks for all the great feedback!! I will definitely change out the flywheel and RMS. Never heard of the microencapsulated bolts. Is this a bolt upgrade from Porsche or an aftermarket upgrade? Where can I buy these?

the bolts are from porsche. there are i think seven total: three IMS flange bolts and four rear case bolts. the service tech should know the ones i mean.

a couple of notes if you do this yourself (or if an indy does it): replace the IMS flange bolts while the oil in the car is DRAINED, otherwise it will leak out. also, replace the IMS flange bolts one at a time; if you remove all three at once, the IMS will be pulled out of place and you won't get it realigned without a special tool.

the case bolts are straightforward.