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Old 05-18-2008, 09:21 AM   #21
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For both of you who just installed headers, did you have any issues with the header bolts breaking? Anything that you did to help getting the bolts out?

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Old 05-18-2008, 12:57 PM   #22
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A heavy dose of penetrating oil, WD-40. Any lightweight oil will do then let it set for a day or two to work into the threads. Then prior to loosening and removing the bolts, fire up the car and allow the bolts to heat up. This is done to severely corroded bolts, mine just took a couple of shot's of WD-40 and the bolts popped right out.
One thing to remember, the heads are aluminum so don't over torque the bolts when tightening.

P.S. Give the O2 sensors a shot also.
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Old 05-18-2008, 06:13 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaxonalden
A heavy dose of penetrating oil, WD-40. Any lightweight oil will do then let it set for a day or two to work into the threads. Then prior to loosening and removing the bolts, fire up the car and allow the bolts to heat up. This is done to severely corroded bolts, mine just took a couple of shot's of WD-40 and the bolts popped right out.
One thing to remember, the heads are aluminum so don't over torque the bolts when tightening.

P.S. Give the O2 sensors a shot also.
I did exactly the same thing and the bolts came off without a problem. In my case though, I did install headers about 4 years / 40,000 miles ago, so there may have been less corrosion.
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Old 05-18-2008, 07:44 PM   #24
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I saw your post, followed your links, and pulled the trigger immediately on getting a set for my 2001 S. I agree that for $160 it's tough to go wrong (that includes tax and shipping). I'm sorry to see you ran into a hiccup (sp?) in your install. I have an appt. with Alex at Integrated Performance in Gardena (Southern California) on Tuesday. I'll try to take some photos and post them if I can figure it out. If I have the time I may get baseline dyno numbers from Integrated as well. (they have a chassis dyno (all wheel drive for anyone who may be interested) to compare with the post install set up. I doubt the horsepower will increase, but I suspect the throttle response should improve and the sound my change a bit.
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Old 05-19-2008, 06:01 PM   #25
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Thanks bro, hope all goes well with the install. If you get a CEL, remember it can be cleared easily.
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Old 05-20-2008, 06:43 AM   #26
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Just curious, if it's a street car how do you get your car to pass smog in California??
Remove the headers and reinstall cats every 2 years or find a crooked smog station?
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Old 05-21-2008, 05:58 AM   #27
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I have the same question, as I also live in California. I've considered all the possible mods but I'm just too lazy to make the switch every two years for testing. Today I am installing the catback exhaust system, but that will not void my smog requirements. I think I could get away with cat bypass on the second set because nobody ever looks under the car, and with a good engine I might - might - pass emissions even without those two cats. But intsalling headers and removing all four cats - no way.
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Old 05-23-2008, 07:13 PM   #28
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got em too

The price has gotten just too good, so I pulled the trigger as well. On the auction site, they had a "best offer", so I offered $95 plus the $39 or whatever shipping. All in, it was under $140. The install went pretty well today. I had sprayed all of te bolts & O2 sensors a couple of days ago with PB Blaster. Everything came out nicely; I used an impact wrench on the bolts I could reach with it, a couple others just got the ratchet and elbow grease. The header-to-cylinder head bolts all survived (whew!), but the header-to-exhaust pipe bolts snapped on three out of six. Two of those were the splined press in bolts, and I had to pull the whole catalytic converter pipe out and really go after them with the sledge to get them out. That was the worst part of the whole job. The only other burble was that on the passenger side, one of the center bolt holes was off by a hair. And the gaskets were a bad match. Fortunately, I had a set of Porsche gaskets, and with a little patience and work, I got all of the bolts in and tight. The new sound is delightful! much deeper, and the growl is more pronounced. A while back I modified my muffler internally to bypass the secondary chamber on each side (like the Sebring muffler, but without the external pipes), and I've "modified" my catalytic converters to flow better. On the bottom end, I may have lost some torque, but after 4000 RPM, she takes off! Money well spent.
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Old 05-24-2008, 01:36 AM   #29
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My appointment for the install has been delayed until next Tuesday. I'm glad to hear about the improvement in the sound. Any change in throttle response? Has your computer thrown a CEL at you yet? Did you disconnect your battery to reset you ECU after you installed the headers and before you initially drove the car with the new additions?
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Old 05-24-2008, 06:50 AM   #30
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It's great to hear of good deals when you own cars like ours. I still haven't fixed my passenger side header yet. I've decided to just take it to a muffler shop and have them modify it to clear the coolant lines. I don't what to take a chance at not getting my ideas across on how to fix my problem back to China, and having it come back still not clearing.
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Old 05-24-2008, 11:26 AM   #31
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Let us know how it goes. My dad has a '99 tiptronic and if you get this thing sorted out, they will have at least one new customer.
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Old 05-24-2008, 02:35 PM   #32
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Hey Jaxonalden, as an alternative to altering the header, which may adversely affect flow, have you thought about rerouting the trans coolant lines? The stainless tubing available from race shops such as CDOC can work miracles.
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Old 05-24-2008, 08:02 PM   #33
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Yo, yo, J.fro,

Yea, I thought about rerouting the line but if you look at the picture I took, the bottom rubber "T" is right in the way. I don't think it will be possible unless I cut the "T" and install a couple of 90 degree bends that will go between the header and the block (oil sump). Not to mention I'm now draining the coolant as well, and if you ever read the procedure on bleeding the coolant after draining...forget about it.

I think I have the tube problem worked out and I'm just waiting for HX Racing to get back in touch with me. I sent my condolences on the earthquake that hit the country, I don't think they were affected.

I'll keep updates as they happen.
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Old 05-26-2008, 05:47 AM   #34
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No problem with 97 tiptronic...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaxonalden
Yo, yo, J.fro,
Yea, I thought about rerouting the line but if you look at the picture I took, the bottom rubber "T" is right in the way. I don't think it will be possible unless I cut the "T" and install a couple of 90 degree bends that will go between the header and the block (oil sump). ....
Hello.
Just to let you know that I bought the same headers from eBay, and that I didn't have this issue with a 2.5l tiptronic... The 2.5 configuration got 2 cooling line, but one on each side of the oil pan. So if you have a ZF tiptronic transmission, I think that you could buy the cooling lines from a 2.5l and your problem will be gone...
BTW bleeding the cooling system is not that hard, I had to do it because of a broken header stud next to the water pump.
Good luck

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Old 05-26-2008, 09:50 AM   #35
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Thanks for the heads up Frederic, I'll check it out. I checked a couple of distributors of headers and the majority said their set would not fit and a couple said "only on 2.5l cars". Now I know why, thank you.
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Old 05-28-2008, 04:43 PM   #36
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Ebay "China Headers" installed

I finally got over to Integrated Performance today to get the headers installed. It took Alex a little over an hour to install. And what a nice guy! Really a no nonsense experience. He even bagged up my old headers and gaskets and put them in the packaging the new ones were in and put them in the trunk for me.

The result. An obvious increase in throttle response. A slightly throatier sound.

I went into this mod a bit apprehensively because I considered the car near perfectly balanced in all respects. A while back I had a WRX wagon with a high flow cat and and APS exhaust. I got addicted to the sound and the great benefit from the exhaust modification alone. That is: sound and throttle response. (eventually the ECU got reflashed too and then it was unbelievable performance too).

From what I've read on this and other forums, the header replacement was the most economical way to get some more satisfaction out of my Boxster driving experience. So for about $300 bucks including the gas to drive to Gardena for the install (headers, tax, shipping, labor, a couple gallons of 91 octane) I am satisfied.

If I start to get a CEL and cannot resolve that, I will probably put the stock headers back.

Like I said, it's tough to mess with near perfection. If the CELs don't start, I think this was one notch in the right direction. Especially for the cost of one new rear Pirelli.

I'll try to get some photos posted soon.
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Old 05-28-2008, 08:07 PM   #37
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If your ride is an 00'+ you will get a CEL,if it's 97'-99' your good to go.
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Old 05-29-2008, 05:03 AM   #38
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In the 4 years I had headers, I never got a CEL until recently and it turned out to be an O2 sensor and MAF problem. Once replaced, the CELs went away.
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Old 05-29-2008, 08:08 AM   #39
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Great to hear Pacific986, I can't wait for the pictures. CEL's can be cleared; I wouldn't necessarily swap back to stock because of that.
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Old 05-29-2008, 08:38 AM   #40
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Question

I know weird question, but compare Headers vs Desnorkling?

I know when I desnorkeled mine it was throatier and felt faster after 4K, was the headers a more obvious difference past 4K and comparing the two with sound?

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