05-29-2007, 05:35 PM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Virginia
Posts: 846
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Another edict of racing is "How fast you want to go? Well.. how much are you going to spend".
Adjustable Coilovers are an excellent start (and luckily lots of options that range from PSS9s ($2000) to .. welll.. seriously LOTS of money possible here.
Sway bars too (adjustable GT3 front bar is a popular option)
Lightweight rims and tires (think big enough for 245's all around or staggered at 245/275 front rear. IMHO the boxster needs nice big fronts to help dial out understeer.
Tires.. Top time of day is HOOSIER. Next, Khumo V710s.. then, it seems pretty well split based on driver/car skills with Toyo RA-1s, Victoracers (if you can find your sizes) and maybe the new Nittos.
4 wheel competition alignment
Ok. Now that we've just spent about $5-8K dollars to go faster some other questions:
1) How often do you autocross?
2) What clubs do you run with?
3a) How is your car currenlty prepared? Are you already winning your class? What have others in you class changed to their cars?
3b) If you are winning your class, how close are you to FTD? (IMHO, even a base boxster, well driven is a top 10 car, maybe even FTD.
3c) If you haven't been to an SCCA Tour event, GO. It will humble you. Even the most well prepared BASE Boxster, on Hoosiers (allowed) and sway bars (allowed) will be incredibly quick.
Mostly what I am asking is, do you think the Mods are the only thing keeping you from being faster or, realistically, would the money be better spent on the DRIVER skills being further developed and only a few mods to the car.
__________________
1976 914 2.0
2000 Boxster 2.7 (sold)
1978 911 SC (sold)
1970 914 w/2056 (sold)
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05-29-2007, 07:03 PM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Chicago
Posts: 585
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by racer_d
Another edict of racing is "How fast you want to go? Well.. how much are you going to spend".
Adjustable Coilovers are an excellent start (and luckily lots of options that range from PSS9s ($2000) to .. welll.. seriously LOTS of money possible here.
Sway bars too (adjustable GT3 front bar is a popular option)
Lightweight rims and tires (think big enough for 245's all around or staggered at 245/275 front rear. IMHO the boxster needs nice big fronts to help dial out understeer.
Tires.. Top time of day is HOOSIER. Next, Khumo V710s.. then, it seems pretty well split based on driver/car skills with Toyo RA-1s, Victoracers (if you can find your sizes) and maybe the new Nittos.
4 wheel competition alignment
Ok. Now that we've just spent about $5-8K dollars to go faster some other questions:
1) How often do you autocross?
2) What clubs do you run with?
3a) How is your car currenlty prepared? Are you already winning your class? What have others in you class changed to their cars?
3b) If you are winning your class, how close are you to FTD? (IMHO, even a base boxster, well driven is a top 10 car, maybe even FTD.
3c) If you haven't been to an SCCA Tour event, GO. It will humble you. Even the most well prepared BASE Boxster, on Hoosiers (allowed) and sway bars (allowed) will be incredibly quick.
Mostly what I am asking is, do you think the Mods are the only thing keeping you from being faster or, realistically, would the money be better spent on the DRIVER skills being further developed and only a few mods to the car.
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Your comments are much appreciated and I'm sure you share my sentiment that there will never be the day that we can't improve upon our skills as a driver. Over the past few events I have had the pleasure of speaking with someone who has been autocrossing for 15+ years and says he is still learning. I most definitely do not think that mods are keeping me from being faster.
Regarding the mods, I don't have a definite goal other than to continue to become more competitive as I learn to drive better and tune my car to get the most out of it given my driving style. The FTD may happen someday but only because the shifter karts or the national champion in the 800 HP AWD Yugo stayed at home. There is always someone faster.
The coilovers make sense because I would like to lower it and have some adjustability in damping. Can I accomplish this in another way and maybe save a few bucks? I have no desire to adjust the ride height after it has been lowered a little but still want adjustability in damping?
I've read about the GT3 sway bar as well, but I'm a little concerned about throwing off the neutral handling that I like so well? Is this mod more valuable to the base Boxsters? Or does the adjustability allow for some other advantage?
Tire wise I run 17's (reduced weight and tire cost) with Victo's and so far so good. I'm thinking that when these wear out I'll be looking to increase the width both front and back. Probably won't go to Hoosier's for a while simply because I like to drive to the events.
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05-30-2007, 03:01 AM
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: MD
Posts: 447
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If I weren't constrained by stock-class rules, the first modification I would make is a limited-slip differential. No question. After that I'd do the coilovers.
I disagree with racer d on one point - I believe the Kumho is faster than the Hoosier. At least in our testing it has been. They are both good tires, but the Kumho lasts much longer. But I agree - I would move to a wider wheel especially in front. You can run an 8.5" wheel on the front of a Boxster.
After those heavy hitters, you can start doing some other smaller things - reducing weight, adding stress bars, etc. But in terms of bang for buck, the LSD is your best bet.
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05-30-2007, 11:38 AM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Virginia
Posts: 846
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by John V
I disagree with racer d on one point - I believe the Kumho is faster than the Hoosier. At least in our testing it has been. They are both good tires, but the Kumho lasts much longer. But I agree - I would move to a wider wheel especially in front. You can run an 8.5" wheel on the front of a Boxster.
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I don't disagree that the Khumo is much slower (than Hoosier) and I know many folks who like the stick and longevity vs the Hoosiers and who think they are better than Hoosiers, I just am not yet in that camp. Then again, I am sure like others, I have been quicker on RA-1s at times than others on either the Hooiser or Khumo.. Driver skill and basic vehicle prep also play into the equation.
__________________
1976 914 2.0
2000 Boxster 2.7 (sold)
1978 911 SC (sold)
1970 914 w/2056 (sold)
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05-30-2007, 03:03 PM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Seattle
Posts: 352
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The ROW 030 is a great suspension because of the everyday drivability of it. It is very stiff yet is not jarring on bumpy roads and it lowers the center of gravity. I run Azenis RT-615 and thought they were a big improvement (especially racing on wet pavement)to the Kumho's that I had previosuly. Maybe next year I'll get some Hoosiers and see what the car can do with stickier rubber. I went with 225's on the front to balance out the understeer a bit. Strut tower braces are a good modification as they will add some rigidity and don't cost a lot.
John V, you seem pretty jazzed about the LSD. Can you elaborate on how it has improved the car? Just when I think I've done all I can something else comes along.
__________________
2000 Black Boxster S
EVO Intake & GIAC Tuning
Headers & Porsche Sport Exhaust System
ROW M030 Suspension
Front & Rear Strut Braces
B&M Short Shift & EVO Billet Linkage
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05-30-2007, 03:18 PM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Chicago
Posts: 585
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by steve00s
The ROW 030 is a great suspension because of the everyday drivability of it. It is very stiff yet is not jarring on bumpy roads and it lowers the center of gravity. I run Azenis RT-615 and thought they were a big improvement (especially racing on wet pavement)to the Kumho's that I had previosuly. Maybe next year I'll get some Hoosiers and see what the car can do with stickier rubber. I went with 225's on the front to balance out the understeer a bit. Strut tower braces are a good modification as they will add some rigidity and don't cost a lot.
John V, you seem pretty jazzed about the LSD. Can you elaborate on how it has improved the car? Just when I think I've done all I can something else comes along.
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How does the ROW 030 (is it M030?) differ from what I have on my S already? It sounds like a great suspension and reasonable price but not sure what is different than what I already have?
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05-30-2007, 03:53 PM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Lakewood, Ohio / Sedona, AZ
Posts: 305
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Sammy:
Call Vertex and get the front strut tower braces. Tell them you saw them on eBay for that price and they will give it to you over the phone. It will make a huge difference. There are many old threads on this if you want to investigate further. Most people I know say start with tires but it sounds like you are all over that one already. Coilovers would be next if you are still hungry after that ( or should I say "adjustable coil overs"). There are some lower priced ones that cost about 1/2 of the PSS9's that are more than suffucient. Again search for past threads, at least 2 forum members have the lesser priced brands and are very happy with them. The Cross and PSS9's are awesome but are really geared for dedicated cars and people with corporate spnsors to pay for them.
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05-30-2007, 05:18 PM
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Virginia
Posts: 846
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Sammy
How does the ROW 030 (is it M030?) differ from what I have on my S already? It sounds like a great suspension and reasonable price but not sure what is different than what I already have?
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I believe the only difference between US and ROW M030 is ride height. The ROW lowers the car another 1/2" or so from the US ride height. The spring rates and shock valvings are the same.
__________________
1976 914 2.0
2000 Boxster 2.7 (sold)
1978 911 SC (sold)
1970 914 w/2056 (sold)
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05-30-2007, 06:01 PM
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: MD
Posts: 447
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by steve00s
John V, you seem pretty jazzed about the LSD. Can you elaborate on how it has improved the car? Just when I think I've done all I can something else comes along.
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As I said, I don't have one. But it would be the first modification I would do.
The main problem I have experienced with my stock-class Boxster is not that it moves around too much or that it doesn't have enough negative camber - it's that it is rather difficult to put the power down without one tire going up in smoke. Certain courses are worse than others. An LSD would cure this - and the car would be more driveable and faster.
Quote:
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Originally Posted by racer d
I don't disagree that the Khumo is much slower (than Hoosier) and I know many folks who like the stick and longevity vs the Hoosiers and who think they are better than Hoosiers, I just am not yet in that camp. Then again, I am sure like others, I have been quicker on RA-1s at times than others on either the Hooiser or Khumo.. Driver skill and basic vehicle prep also play into the equation.
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The Kumho has been the dominant tire at Nationals for the past couple years - that should be pretty good indication that it's as fast or faster than the Hoosier.
If you're as quick on RA-1s as on the V710 or A6... the tire is obviously not the limiting factor. RA-1s and Victos are great tires, but not in the same league as the V710 / A6.
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05-31-2007, 10:17 AM
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#10
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: chicago
Posts: 3,510
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Patrick, you already drive like a maniac, leave the thing alone.
every time we go you get the damn 1st place plaques, let me and nick get a shot at it
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