Caliper bolts

[derb]

Anyone have trouble removing the 2 bolts that hold the caliper on? I can barely move mine. I thought I was going to get a hernia they are so tight. Not even sure I can tighten them back up. One backed out about 1/4" and the other a little less. I haven't used a cheater bar on the ratchet yet for fear they might snap off.
Penetrating oil hasn't helped much. Any advice is appreciated.

Regards,
derb

[MNBoxster]

Hi,

They're not gonna snap, but you should always use a breaker Bar when loosening them - repeated torqueing them with a Ratchet Handle is when they'll snap.

At 63 ft.lbs. (torque value), they're not gonna come easy, but they will. Also, because of this, Porsche calls for replacing them each time they are removed. They are PN# 999.067.041.09 - $2.

This is because they are designed to stretch so as not to work loose - a BAD THING! But, they won't stretch a second time without potentially loosing their integrity. It's a pretty important piece of kit and with so little money involved, should not be reused - that's when you'll risk snapping them off...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

[Tool Pants]

This is not good. I have no secret tips.

You have a steel threaded bolt going into an aluminum threaded hub. Sometimes the threads weld themselves together but I do not know if that is your situation unless you are not using enough force.

Backing out a fastner 1/4 of a turn and it does not then easily unscrew is not good.

This is not an uncommon problem on the UK message boards because of the stuff they put on the roads during winter.

[MNBoxster]

Hi,

Try turning the bolt back in and use a wire brush to clean the exposed threads. Then try some PB Blaster (an enzyme containing penetrant which will literally eat rust and salt). If that doesn't work, try some heat, carefully applied to loosen things up...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

[John V]

Originally Posted by MNBoxster

Hi,

Try turning the bolt back in and use a wire brush to clean the exposed threads. Then try some PB Blaster (an enzyme containing penetrant which will literally eat rust and salt). If that doesn't work, try some heat, carefully applied to loosen things up...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

Ditto, ditto ditto. I would continually and liberally douse with PB Blaster. Do this over the course of a couple hours. Seriously. Let the stuff work. If that doesn't work, get yourself a small MAPP gas torch from Sears. Work carefully. Do not burn rubber caliper boots, brake lines, or ball joint boots.

[derb]

Thanks for the help so far.

MNBoxster: I tried a 18" breaker bar tonight with no movement. I do plan on replacing the bolts like the Porsche manual says. Two bucks is cheap for a Porsche part. On a side note... I just bought a speed sensor from Porsche of Tysons here in Virginia and it was $40 more than the one I bought from them last year- they said it was a Porsche parts price increase. From $124 to $164. Note to self: should have gone to Sunset Imports. The speed sensor removal is a whole 'nother story.

John V: PB Blaster hasn't helped yet but there is still hope. I have considered heat but am holding off after pondering what could be melted, destroyed, etc.

ToolPants: I agree- not good at all. The thought (cost) of worst case senario is frightening. The bolt is backed out a 1/4" not a 1/4 turn. I haven't tried too hard yet but I can't tighten it back up.

derb

[JAAY]

I just did this whole process. To be honest with you I had no issues. I used a allen wrench I had laying around and took the handle from the stock lug tool and just used that to extend it for better leverage. The only advice I can give is to spray it with pb like everyone said and then work it back in and out.. etc.... Good luck. If no good, break out the map gas and heat that S.O.B. Oh and a six pack helps me.
http://986forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9797
I dont know if this will help at all.

[Tool Pants]

If you backed out a bolt 1/4" and then the rest of the bolt did not back out easily....

Then it will not move with an 18" breaker bar. You can get it out with a 18" breaker bar but you are afraid to pull harder because something is going to get screwed up, like the threads. But they already are.

Not good.

As I said, I see this on the UK Boxster boards because of the stuff on the roads. By the time they finally get the bolt out the aluminum threads are stripped. If they are lucky they can use a thread chaser to clean up the threads and still hold 63 pounds with a new bolt. If they are unlucky then time for another caliper. I don't know if you can heli-coil it.

I do not know why you want to remove the caliper - painting them - rotor replacement. If there is no very good reason to get the bolts out then tighten up the one and let the next owner deal with it. My free advice of the day.

[derb]

Well, I got the 2 caliper bolts out using a 2' length of pipe on the allen wrench. Not sure if the threads on the wheel carrier are stripped but it looks like the last few threads on the bolts are galled up. i.e. they might have stripped the threads while being backed out due to corrosion. The rest of the threads on the bolt look fine. Guess I won't know the damage until I get the new bolts to try.

Thanks again for the help.

derb

[MNBoxster]

Originally Posted by derb

Well, I got the 2 caliper bolts out using a 2' length of pipe on the allen wrench. Not sure if the threads on the wheel carrier are stripped but it looks like the last few threads on the bolts are galled up. i.e. they might have stripped the threads while being backed out due to corrosion. The rest of the threads on the bolt look fine. Guess I won't know the damage until I get the new bolts to try.

Thanks again for the help.

derb

Hi,

As TP suggests, try using a thread chaser to clean up the Caliper threads before using the new bolts. I'm guessing you're gonna be OK. Good Luck!...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

[FrayAdjacent]

PB Blaster is your friend.