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Old 02-07-2017, 09:48 PM   #1
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Rear toe link DIY Help

Anyone have a quick break down or any tips on how to replace the rear toe links? I'm rebuilding my suspension this week and haven't found too much info on replacing these.
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Old 02-08-2017, 04:50 AM   #2
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Search for one of the vendors like rennline or tarret that sell competition style rear toe links and you can follow their instructions, but it is not too complicated.

Per the Bentley manual, the torques are:
On the chassis side with the toe eccentric bolt, the torque is 100 Nm (75 ft-lb)
On the wheel bearing carrier/ball joint end, the torque is 75 Nm (65 ft-lb)

After replacing the toe arm you will need a new alignment, and the Bentley also says to only replace them in pairs.

To get the ball joint end off, you can use something like the Harbor freight ball joint removal tool, but most auto parts stores have a 4-5 piece front end kit in their loaner tool program that has one of these ball joint tools.

When you put in the new rear toe arm, you can put a little anti-seize on the pin that goes up into the wheel carrier to make it easier to get out next time. The toe arms aren't too bad compared to the LCA ball joint pin but it will still help for next time.

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Old 02-08-2017, 08:18 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steved0x View Post
Search for one of the vendors like rennline or tarret that sell competition style rear toe links and you can follow their instructions, but it is not too complicated.

Per the Bentley manual, the torques are:
On the chassis side with the toe eccentric bolt, the torque is 100 Nm (75 ft-lb)
On the wheel bearing carrier/ball joint end, the torque is 75 Nm (65 ft-lb)

After replacing the toe arm you will need a new alignment, and the Bentley also says to only replace them in pairs.

To get the ball joint end off, you can use something like the Harbor freight ball joint removal tool, but most auto parts stores have a 4-5 piece front end kit in their loaner tool program that has one of these ball joint tools.

When you put in the new rear toe arm, you can put a little anti-seize on the pin that goes up into the wheel carrier to make it easier to get out next time. The toe arms aren't too bad compared to the LCA ball joint pin but it will still help for next time.

This guy has everything correct. One tip is one you have placed the tool and applied a load/force to separate, gently tap the receptacle end(where the nut sits) on the side to induce some vibration to separate.
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