At immobilizer:

BU/RD/BK door safe, pass. = BU/RD, driver side

BN/GN door contact, pass. = BR/GR/WH, driver side

BU/WH door locked, pass. = BU/WH/BN, driver side

All should show ground when the microswitch is closed. I'll confirm how they should operate when I get a chance, but probably not until tomorrow.

I truly appreciate all your help. Thank you for going out of your way to help me with what has been one of the biggest frustrations on my car.

Glad to help. My findings have been added to the quote below:

Thank you. I will check these as soon as I get the chance. While researching last weekend I did discover that the passenger side regulator is shot.

What's most curious to me about it not unlocking is that when you hit the unlock button, it does illuminate the interior lights. So it is getting the signal from the key, just not working properly. I have also noticed that if I unlock it manually it doesn't unlock the passenger side, and when I open the door it sets off the alarm.

Took the car to my Indy shop for an unrelated issue. It had been smoking out of the passenger side scoop since the rebuilt engine was installed. Turned out to be a bad spark plug tube seal. However, while it was there I had him pull all the alarm/central locking codes. He says there were multiple codes and wrote me up a work order. Haven't picked the car up yet, but I'll report back with their findings. Should shed some light on whatever is wrong.

Well, here are the trouble codes. List is a mile long.

http://i1303.photobucket.com/albums/...psgzfworkt.jpg

Yikes...looks like a bad door lock mechanism is behind some of it. Probably passenger side, based on your previous posts. Maybe Woody can get you one at a decent price. That should solve your locking issue.

I'll try that 1st. Andrew at the Indy shop seems to think the CLU/immobilizer are the issue and suggested I send it to ECU doctors. He says they use them all the time and have had great experiences with them.

That easily could be the issue, as well. They will code a good immobilizer with your existing immobilizer's coding to match the car. I think they charge about $500 for that.

I was playing around on Amazon this morning and came across this:

Car Remote Keyless Entry System With HAA Flip Key Remote Controls And Outside Code Learning Button And LED Indicator https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RAI0P9Q/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_WeY4vbNCE9Y0Z

Same unit, with a Porsche/VW key blank attached to the remote.

That looks nice can those blanks be cut to fit our cars? Just an FYI, I used a place called S.O.S. Diagnostics to repair my immobilizer and they charge around $525.00 or $495.00 on ebay. I guess mine is fixed but my key fob still doesn't work, but maybe that's in the fob itself. They do sell programmed keys for around $200.00 but they need your immobilzer to do that or just a replacement key without the fob for $45.00.

Yes, it's the exact same key blank. It is missing the little "pill" that goes in it that communicates with the immobilizer. However, it should be fairly easy to move your existing one to the new key, and it's only about $20 to have a locksmith cut the key to match your existing one. If your immobilizer isn't damaged, this would be a good way to replace a broken or non functional remote like Particlewave did.

Oh, and I can't find that seller on eBay.

That's a great idea, I think I'll be doing that. It would be nice to have keyless entry and I need another key, I only have one so if I lose it I'm you know. The seller on ebay user name is sos-101. Here's the ebay link, it looks like he raised his prices to $545.00, I paid $495.00 a few weeks ago.http://www.ebay.com/itm/Porche-Boxster-911-996-PAS-M535-Alarm-System-and-Programming-/261993196096?fits=Year%3A1999%7CMake%3APorsche%7CM odel%3ABoxster&hash=item3d0002ea40&vxp=mtr
Thanks for the reply!

Nice find! I'm not a fan of the flip key because of how far it sticks out of the ignition, but I may have to try it anyway.

Awesome
 

Let me just start by saying this is great info, I too did not have a remote for the 99 boxster and now I do thanks to you!:dance:

Nice :)

I'm glad that this is getting some use!

Just got mine from the post office. It has a install instructions like this:

Just got mine from the post office. It's got install instructions like this:

http://tntautotuning.com/pics/keyles...tions-octo.jpg

Couple of questions.

1. Do I just use Fig 3 negative trigger? So in my case I would have to attach Blue and Yellow/Black wires to the cars ground and Brown to cars Brown/white and Yellow to cars Brown/red?

2. Where I can get easily +12v in the car?

3. How about the trunk actuator? There is only Trunk release output (Purple). Do you know to where I should attach that in the car? And how do I know if it is positive or negative output? I think it might be positive so I would need a relay there.

Big thanks to you guys in advance!

I can't remember what color it is off the top of my head, but 12v + comes in to the immobilizer. It's red and can't remember if it has a stripe or not.