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Nbeard
Help guys I am new to this forum I need a new 3 button key fob should I trust buying one on the Internet and take it to the dealer or should I just go to the dealer and spend the big bucks?
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I just checked. Unlocking with the key only unlocks the passenger door.
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And you did just tap into those wires, not cut them, right?
Unlocking with the key only unlocks the passenger door, but unlocking with the new remote doesn't unlock either door? |
Tapped into the wire not cut it. The key only unlocks the drivers door. 02s don't have a key for the passenger side.
The remote will unlock it for the 1st 10-15 seconds after you lock it. Once the alarm arms, it won't unlock. Once you turn the key on in the ignition it clears the alarm and it will lock or unlock again until the alarm arms again. I did notice today that of you are in the car and the alarm is armed and you open the door it will unlock the passenger door. I'm thinking if there's a wire that can be tapped to send that signal that the handle as been pulled and that may unlock it all. Don't know which of the 30 wires that lead to the imobilzer and I don't know which one it is. |
Brown wire, green stripe, white bands (BN/GN/WH) for the inside door handle microswitch (ground contact).
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Now, another question: is it unlocking when you pull on the handle a bit, or when the door actually unlatches at the mechanism?
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I'm wrong. Just played with it some more. Sitting in the car, locking it and setting the alarm, pulling the handle sets the alarm off. Stick the key in the ignition, turn the key, and it clears it.
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It gets more and more frustrating. The only way I could think to fix it would be to trick the imobilzer into think the ignition is on for a second. Not sure that can be done without the key close by though.
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One more thing. When it's locked and you hit the unlock button, it turns the interior light on like it should. Just won't unlock.
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Still, if you can unlock it with the key in the door once armed, you should be able to do it remotely since the module is just closing the circuit, same as the key.
I'll have another look at the wiring diagram...there is one more wire to try. When you unlock it at the door with the key, do you hear the lock/unlock actuator activate? |
Ok. Thanks for all your help. It really helps me to have someone who has such knowledge. I can follow a basic schematic and cut and solder. But this car is a lot more complex then the VWs I'm used to.
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http://youtu.be/kyEypH9qlB8
That's strange. Seems that turning the key does not unlock the passenger door or disarm the alarm either. Could something be wrong with my imbolizer? |
The remote door lock mechanism just grounds one side of the circuit. Check for voltage on the other side when the alarm is on.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk |
Please forgive my ignorance and lack of having a schematic. How do I check for voltage on the positive side?
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That is odd. I can hear the actuator activating, so the immobilizer is getting the unlock signal from the door lock mechanism. My first WAG is something amiss in one of the door lock mechanisms (bad microswitch, possibly passenger door closed).
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Quote:
In attempt to clarify, when the alarm is on check the negative signal wire, you should see battery voltage when it is not grounded. If there is no battery voltage, that is where your issue is. I think for whatever reason there's no power to the door locks when the alarm is on. Sent from my SM-T310 using Tapatalk |
1.4 volts coming out of both the lock and unlock signal, no matter if the alarm is armed or not.
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Further testing shows that the window doesn't drop when the passenger door is opened. Makes a sound like it does, but in fact does not drop. May be getting closer. Particlewave you may be on to something.
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Played more and did a bit of googling. The window isn't dipping because the regulator is bad. Also, seems that the fuel door lock actuator is toast. It doesn't lock. However, as much as I want them to be, none of theses things are why the alarm is causing it not to unlock.
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