I bought a Compustar CM6200 from Ebay. The company is notorious for not providing technical support to consumers. So I called some installers. "oooooh, a porsche?! a porsche isn't 250, a porsche is 7-800." At 100 per solder joint, roughly, I asked why I shouldn't do it myself. They told me I'd blow a coil.
Wiring diagrams are available via google. Bulldogsecurity.com was a good site, but there were many others.
I took out the front drivers seat. HIGHLY recommended for space and to access door lock wires.
I also removed middle console. This is documented in the boxster short shifter install guide which can be found via google. Its pretty easy ... basicallly the front torx screw, the torx screws under the windows switch panel and the screws in the console box / coin holder.
The details may vary with remote starter, so I am not going to document the actual connections wire by wire. Here's what you need to know.
Constant 12v -- there are 3 red/white wires coming from the boxster ignition harness and they are NOT all constant. You will need a dmm or a test light to find the correct wire.
I did not connect ACC
The boxster parking light circuit is divided by side -- in order to attach a single +12v output from the alarm one would need 6-8A rated diodes (or separately fused relays), so easier was to keep the circuits separate -- I ran my +12v parking light output from the alarm to the left side wire (with a 1n4004 diode) and I ran the 2nd parking light output (which the Compustar unit I was installing provides), which is a negative output, to a relay (wired to switch polarity, ie 12v to pins 30 and 86, alarm negative trigger to pin 85, output (12v out) on pin 87, nothing on pin 87a).
The 986 requires 3 ignitions to be wired ... I used the negative ignition trigger (IGN#2) on the alarm unit to trigger two separate relays, each powered by a separately fused connection to 12v constant. Instructions for this relay are provided in the Compustar documentation (also available online). pretty straightforward.
I cut the starter wire and used the starter relay provided by Compustar with this remote in order to provide anti-grind/starter kill functionality.
I had difficulty finding the brakes. I actually haven't finished (lol) ... but I am pretty sure it is NOT the yellow/black wire at the brake switch documented in the wiring diagrams but rather the BLACK wire ... I still have to test with dmm. It should read 12v when depressed and nothing at rest.
I had difficulty getting my unit into programming mode via compustar instructions. this is documented in a thread at the12volt -- i ended up using a jumper rather than my keys, as described there.
For those with the cm6200 i connected up: CN1: Constant, Ign#1, Starter (via relay), Pkg light (+), ground; CN2 and CN5: starter kill, Foot brake, horn, Ebrake (must be connected for remote starter to work in a manual transmission), Ign 2 (via 2 relays to power ign2 and ign3 wires), starter 2 (used to power a relay to bypass the clutch), door lock, door unlock, door trigger, tach.
I couldn't find the door lock/unlock/trigger wires for the longest time until I realized was looking at the wrong bundle. They are included among the thin wires that go to the big middle connector on the alarm under the driver seat. That's one of many reasons removing the drivers seat made this job so much easier.
Notwithstanding any difficulties, and very cramped space, it was a pretty painless job ... Soldered all connections.
The key contains an RFID ... a bypass unit must be installed. I found it easier to just take the little RFID out of my drivers key (I only have one) and tape it to the key cylinder ... but placement was very, very finicky.
Dangermobile
Linear Mode
