After doing some research this evening, I found that some other horizontal trays have holes drilled to allow the return oil to flow directly into the extended sump (see image below).

However, this would somewhat appear to defeat the purpose of the horizontal baffle by allowing oil to pour out of the deep sump onto the top of the baffle during hard cornering.

On the other hand, it seems that dumping the oil on the top of the horizontal baffle would be ok for one side (oil wold flow into the center thru the doors of the vertical baffle) but on the other side the oil would pool on the top of the horizontal baffle.

It seems that the key is to get the oil from the returns into the deep sump while minimizing the size of the holes that might allow oil to get past and onto the top of the horizontal baffle.

http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/...pstk4nqavb.jpg

Those look like holes to allow the original swirl pots to clear the horizontal tray. I think they will be mostly filled by the protruding bottoms of the swirl.pots? If those are to allow oil to pass imo they are too big.

I think mantis has small holes drilled in their horz tray.

Photo on Mantis site shows row of small dia holes in the plate Steve is talking about:

1998 - 2008 Oil Sump Extension Kit - 2.0 L Race Version

I used the 9x7 version of the oil return tubes. My understanding is they return the oil faster than the 986 version, at the possible expense of the defoaming effect of the 986 version, which is offset by the extra 2 quarts of oil.

The horizontal baffle is commonly referred to as a windage tray....as far as I know. Mantis have had this in their set up for long while. I think it is a very key design feature. I have big holes in my Mantis tray for swirl pots. I don't recall having any other holes so the oil is trapped. Return is facilitated via the open centre....I hope this is enough.

Tom will have the larger older style diameter swirl pots....so this is why you see two big holes to allow the pots to go through. I have heard of Caymans going back to this style for more de foam action. You definately want to return oil to the trapped volume underneath where the pick up will be.....otherwise there will be a problem

Tom - I want to give you a shout-out for this discussion on oiling and the different sump options.

After you started this discussion before Thanksgiving, I decided I needed to do something with regards to keeping my Orange/Black 269 DE car safer from oil starvation. While I'm not driving at your level and pulling the lateral G's that you are, I'm still driving the car a lot harder then when I began. After this discussion, I decided it was better to be safe than sorry.

I had the 269 car at my mechanic a few weeks ago for some different things, and after discussion, we decided while he had the car, to have him install the LN Engineering 2 QT deep sump and the X-51 style windage tray. We also went with a spin-on filter.

It'll be mid-March before I'll be back on the track, but I'll be feeling a bit more comfortable. Thanks for all your continued help and advice - both on and off the board! :cheers:

Rick

Thanks for all of the input! (and thanks for the shout-out Rick)

The tray above with the big holes was for reference as it got me thinking about the oil returns. The TechnoSump kit has the 996/997 swirl returns that do not have the big cans on the ends. Since I plan to use the 996/997 returns that came with the kit, I am not planning on cutting any holes in the horizontal baffle (as there aren't any holes in the TechnoSump/TunesRS kit or the LN Engineering kit).

Here is where I am today - this looks exactly like the LN/Bilt Racing kit (Bilt Racing 2QT Deep Sump Oil Pan Kit inc. Pickup-Tube Extension, Windage Tray & X51 Baffle LN Engineering)

Please excuse my lack of fine metal working skills on the windage tray - I'm just a DIY hack. Installation tomorrow...

http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9fdbfxq9.jpg

http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/...psv0ulbf4s.jpg

The LN kit has the orange rubber pieces removed from the bottom parts of the x-51 baffle, are you planning to keep them on yours (or are you preserving the baffle during the test fitting for a future sale since you have 2?) I would be afraid they would fall off and block the oil flow. The rest of them are bound very tightly by pressure when it is installed but I would worry about those bottom 2. I'm not sure how tightly they are glued on but when I got that baffle new one of them had mostly fallen off and I had to reposition it.

Looks pretty good to me, as good as the factory LN piece!

Good eye! The photo was a quick test fit and I was planning on removing the two bottom rubber pieces prior to installation. I agree that it seems that they might come off.

I got the deep sump installed today. The filter and sump were perfectly clean but I found some old sealant stuck in the oil pickup screen. Its dark brown and flexible. This wasn't there about a year ago when I installed the EBS baffle. I know its not sealant from a year ago because I used the grey stuff and it was still grey where it had slightly seeped into the inside of the sump.

I will let the sealant cure overnight and will put oil in it tomorrow.

Here is the complete assy ready for installation;
http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/...psohn9vsr3.jpg

Swapped the big can swirl pots for the 997 type that came with the kit;
http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/...psuayfm2ig.jpg


Here is the old sealant that was in the oil pickup;
http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/...psk0lpa6ee.jpg

I replace brakes (pads & rotors) often enough that I received a free t-shirt along with a hand-written note from the manager of my rotor supplier today!

They do make very good and affordable rotors! I have probably gone through 15 sets of rotors without any problems over the past 5 years.

For example, OEM replacement rotors for early Boxster's are $48 rear and $53 front (ea). That's a full set for $202 with free shipping. Check them out at: Performance Brake Rotors | Brake Pads & More | Cquence.net

http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/...psqmshl8pe.jpg

Excellent lead - which series & design are you running for Spec (dimpled & slotted or just slotted)? I need to replace mine for DEs this spring and their pricing looks outstanding - can do both axles for less than OE price for one!

Thanks! :)

That's 3 sets of rotors per year, is this on one car?

I generally use the drilled set, but the dimpled/slotted are my second choice. I think that the drilled rotors have a better feel but that is probably just in my head.

I put Meyle drilled rotors on my 04 S
they were $82 for the front pair and $75 for the rear pair on ebay

The Boxster usually gets two sets per year plus one of the five family cars once every 2-3 years.

This year my son has also been driving the Boxster so its getting double the wear almost every weekend so I will probably do 4 brake changes this year on that car alone.

On average, I get about 10 track days out of a set of brakes.

That is really good pricing for a known brand! Good find.

Here are pic's of the TechnoSump installed.

As you can see, the sump doesn't protrude lower than anything else and is roughly even with the rest of the underside of the car. I am not too worried about driving on the street, but I could imagine the front side of the sump acting like a plow and picking up a lot of dirt/grass/gravel during an off course excursion.

Replaced the brakes and trans fluid yesterday and will do the plugs today. Might as well get it all done as long as the car is up on the lift.

Sump install;
http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0rce2acn.jpg

Nothing sticks out below the level of the bottom of the car;
http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/...psr6r4ba0y.jpg

But its not very far recessed either!
http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/...psjiozpk3a.jpg

Time for a skid plate??