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Old 02-22-2013, 07:39 PM   #1
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A good example is the one wire (looks like ground) that travels under the emergency brake and dives under the center tunnel through a rubber grommet. My guess is: ground to the fuel filter, and should probably keep that to be safe. The pix of most SPB builds out there show no wire there. Thoughts?
You are correct, it's the ground wire for the fuel filter. I think Brad told me it's not necessary. And you'd think it would be possible to ground it under the car somewhere also. I just fed it cleanly to the nearby ground pin on the passenger floor pan (which on my car was never used for anything, unlike the driver side) so it doesn't get in the way of stuff on the driver side floor like the rails or belts.

I only have 1 cable running along the center tunnel now, and that's the thick cable that goes to the engine (probably the battery cable going to the starter?). Everything else that used to go down the tunnel channel is gone -- parking brake lever sensor, window & heated seat switches, oddments tray alarm sensor, ashtray light, etc., all gone.
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Old 02-23-2013, 06:37 PM   #2
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You are correct, it's the ground wire for the fuel filter. I think Brad told me it's not necessary. And you'd think it would be possible to ground it under the car somewhere also. I just fed it cleanly to the nearby ground pin on the passenger floor pan (which on my car was never used for anything, unlike the driver side) so it doesn't get in the way of stuff on the driver side floor like the rails or belts.

I only have 1 cable running along the center tunnel now, and that's the thick cable that goes to the engine (probably the battery cable going to the starter?). Everything else that used to go down the tunnel channel is gone -- parking brake lever sensor, window & heated seat switches, oddments tray alarm sensor, ashtray light, etc., all gone.
Got it. I agree on the comment regarding grounding in the direct surrounding of the filter.

So when removing all the security stuff (alarm horn, dash LED,
Sensors...) is there anything special that needs to be done in order for it to not
Become a Problem or is the immobilizer just needing to see the key code and nothing
Else matters?
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Old 02-23-2013, 11:05 PM   #3
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I ended up completely eliminating the immobilizer but prior to doing so it came down to only nine wires (from memory) that absolutely had to be there and they were earth and power wires (switched, unswitched and delayed -terminal 86??), a few wires that ran up to the sensor coil at the key and a couple that ran back to the ECU. All the others that came from various sensors or to hardware were redundant.

If you read down the list of them on the wiring diagram in your Bentleys you'll pretty quickly be able to put them into three buckets:-
1) going nowhere (ie you've already removed whatever was on the other end)
2) going god knows where (ie disappears into the ECU for unknown reason)
3) going somewhere obviously required (ie power, earth, decoder etc.)

1&3 are easy to deal with and 2 i tended to leave alone. If you get to the point where you don't know what you are cutting it might be worth cutting one at a time and checking you are still operational in between.
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Old 02-24-2013, 01:22 AM   #4
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I ended up completely eliminating the immobilizer
Any more details on how you did this, I thought the car would not start if you remove the immobilizer from the car?
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Old 02-24-2013, 07:46 PM   #5
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Eric from HRG in California got DQ-Ed for the season after scrutineering saw the Immibilizer was gone and the ECU was no longer factory.
Of course he also had a start button and the whole steering lock was gone.
I guess you just need to make sure your local scrutineering will be ok with that mod.
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Old 02-25-2013, 10:24 AM   #6
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Eric from HRG in California got DQ-Ed for the season after scrutineering saw the Immibilizer was gone and the ECU was no longer factory.
Of course he also had a start button and the whole steering lock was gone.
I guess you just need to make sure your local scrutineering will be ok with that mod.
Mine also has the lock etc missing but I've had no issues with PCA s far. I also tend to finish fairly low down the order so I don't think anyone is too concerned about my car having any great advantage.
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Old 02-25-2013, 08:41 PM   #7
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Here is the link to the thread where Eric goes over the process:
Steering Lock & Push Button Start
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Old 02-25-2013, 09:46 PM   #8
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Here is the link to the thread where Eric goes over the process:
Steering Lock & Push Button Start
Cool, thank you...
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Old 02-26-2013, 04:41 PM   #9
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Any of you guys stripping out harness I'm looking for the harness (car side) connectors for the radio. A previous owner did a terrible radio install which I fixed but would like to find the oem connectors.

I'm seriously looking at Spec Boxster. Have been playing with 944 forever but that platform is getting sorta old.

Thanks.
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Old 02-26-2013, 08:24 PM   #10
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Alas my left over parts are long gone but hopefully someone will save them for you.
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Old 02-26-2013, 08:38 PM   #11
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Any of you guys stripping out harness I'm looking for the harness (car side) connectors for the radio. A previous owner did a terrible radio install which I fixed but would like to find the oem connectors.

I'm seriously looking at Spec Boxster. Have been playing with 944 forever but that platform is getting sorta old.

Thanks.
If I can figure out which one it is out of the pile i will happily send it to you!
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Old 03-23-2013, 10:40 AM   #12
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If I can figure out which one it is out of the pile i will happily send it to you!
Michael: I've discovered that what I'm looking for is a small yellow connector with 6 pins. It should be in close proximity to a small green connector also 6 pins and a blue connector with 8 pins. They actually dovetail together and all went to the radio.

Thanks. John
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Old 02-26-2013, 08:42 PM   #13
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Any good tips on how to remove the foam and glue residue leftover around the engine bay, inside the cab? Apparently miata guys use dry ice on theirs and break it loose but it is
A Completely different glue.
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