How much should I offer for this car...

[Paul]

Make sure the 30K maintenance has been completed and that it included changing the brake fluid.

Check the tires and the top.

If all of these are OK and it's a "10", $21k is a good deal.

[FrayAdjacent]

If it's a '10' like you say, and he HAS had the 30k service, and a PPI checks out, I think it's worth exactly what he's asking. I wouldn't try to lowball him and lose a cherry Boxster that way.

Again, I think the asking price is fair.

[bmx672]

He showed me the receipt for the 30k service he had done this past fall. Brake fluid etc...
The top is flawless... the back window is flawless.
The tires have around 10k left... they are not new by any means, but can definitely go for another summer.
This car is truly a 10.
The underside of the car is perfect as well. No scrapes on any of the scrape plates... no rock chips on the rockers... not a ding or scratch. All the original books and sticker. The wheel wells are as clean as the day it left the factory. The shocks and rubber underneath is all clean. he said that he can't even recall ever puting window washer fluid in it since he never drove it in the rain etc... He has a factory built 550 spider as well (not original, but still).
I think I need to jump on it...

[Norminhouston]

Sounds like you have found a "jewel". Go for it. Good luck.

[denverpete]

Sounds to me like he's really already adjusted the price for what he'd like to get for it (no padding for negotiations).

Sounds like a very nice deal to me.

Good luck!

[Burg Boxster]

Unless IL sales tax is different than mine (PA), you've got an advantage b/c it tells you he's not happy w/ the trade-in # they gave him. If he was, he would have taken the deal b/c then you only have to pay sales tax on the difference (new less trade value). On more expensive (higher valued) cars, it's hard to offset the difference and/or justify the hassle of selling it private party.

For instance, I recently was going to tried to trade in my wife's '02 Volvo S80 w/ 92K miles. The real t/i value was $7K. Since her car had to be ordered, I figured I had some time and would run a $40 ad on Autotrader to see what I could get. Found a guy who wasn't afraid of higher mileage cars and since it was in great condition, he really wanted it. I ended up 'dumping' it for $10K. Sure I lost the $490 sales tax advantage (7% x $7000) but picked up almost $2.5K net ($10,000 - $490 tax - $40 ad - $7000 t/i value).

So, do your homework and figure out the realistic t/i value he was probably offered for it (use NADA and KBB) as well as the PP value. Calculate what the tax saving would be for him if he took their t/i value. Add that to the t/i value and make him an offer somewhere between that and his asking price. This way, everyone should be happy. If he was smart (and since it's winter there too), he would've priced it there already.

Good luck!

[z12358]

Yes, you're in the driver's seat but don't get too comfy there.

One owner, good vibe from owner, all records, 10/10, low mileage cars are not easy to find. You are also not the only one who knows that convertibles are better bought in winter, especially couple of months before spring. If I was in your shoes, and I liked the car, I would try to bluff-haggle a bit but wouldn't blink paying full price especially if it was fairly priced to begin with. $0.5-1k is chump change when you're buying a Porsche, given the high maintenance costs. And you're going to blow that $ on needless 'mods' later, anyway. So keep things in perspective, get the car if it passes muster, and sleep tight even if you know you could've potentially paid $500 less.

Z.