01-04-2007, 11:38 PM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: chicago
Posts: 3,510
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overspray
my dad was painting some stuff around the garage, and a little bit of overspray (well not really overspray in a way that a lot of paint got on the car, but that dusty kind of stuff), but actually i just noticed that after i was putting a 2nd coat of zaino that some random 2-3 spots on hood on a bumper feel a little more ruff than the rest of the glossy finish.
here is my Q: if i were to put claybar over this, will it remove zaino? im thinking not. i just dont want to make swirls (i dont know if that would happen either couse its not that ruff).
but i do want to get rid of that from the paint. u cant see it, but just to the touch it feels not as good as the rest of the car.
what do you guys suggest?
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Last edited by djomlas; 01-05-2007 at 12:20 AM.
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01-05-2007, 03:37 AM
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#2
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: new jersey
Posts: 404
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i worked in a detailing shop for about 2 yrs and I would say if you use clay block on a car your actually stripping the wax off as well as scratching the surface. So your answer is yes . When you clayblock you should do a compound with a machine to get thoughs fine scratches out and then wax again.
Last edited by clb0099; 01-05-2007 at 03:42 AM.
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01-05-2007, 05:16 AM
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Minneapolis/St. Paul, Minnesota, USA
Posts: 3,308
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Hi,
There are actually several grades of clay used by professionals ranging from aggressive to mild. The clay you can buy as a Consumer is actually a sort of 4th grade somewhere (depending upon who manufactured it - there are only 3 actual manufacturers of automotive clays, everyone buys from them and re-labels it) between medium and mild.
Removing paint overspray is one of the primary uses of claying a car by pros, it was first adopted for this purpose. That said, the key to doing a proper job is to use fresh, clean clay and to lubricate it liberally with a solution of soapy water or water mixed with Glycerin (available at any Drug Store). Turn the clay often and keep spraying the lubricant (til it's running down the paint). Don't press too hard, let the clay do the work, several light passes are better than a few hard ones.
It will remove any sealant or finish, so be prepared to re-zaino the surface when you're done. Hope this helps...
Happy Motoring!... Jim'99
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01-05-2007, 05:52 AM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 983
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MNBoxster
Hi,
There are actually several grades of clay used by professionals ranging from aggressive to mild. The clay you can buy as a Consumer is actually a sort of 4th grade somewhere.
Happy Motoring!... Jim'99
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So is that "fourth grade" that we common people buy the most mild or most aggressive of the four? Or are you saying it depends on which of the manufacturers it comes from?
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01-05-2007, 06:03 AM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Minneapolis/St. Paul, Minnesota, USA
Posts: 3,308
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr. Kill
So is that "fourth grade" that we common people buy the most mild or most aggressive of the four? Or are you saying it depends on which of the manufacturers it comes from?
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Hi,
With 1 being the most agressive and 3 being the mildest, consumer clays are about a 2.5. Agressive enough for general purpose (surface cleaning, overspray, sap, rail dust, brake dust removal) use, but mild enough to keep the consumer out of trouble. Pros don't use it because they're trained to use each grade properly, and for it's intended purpose. The consumer on the other hand doesn't want 3 different grades on hand, it's more economical to have an all-purpose clay. But, again, it's all about clean clay, light pressure, and plenty of lubrication...
Happy Motoring!... Jim'99
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01-05-2007, 06:26 AM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 983
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MNBoxster
Hi,
With 1 being the most agressive and 3 being the mildest, consumer clays are about a 2.5. Agressive enough for general purpose (surface cleaning, overspray, sap, rail dust, brake dust removal) use, but mild enough to keep the consumer out of trouble. Pros don't use it because they're trained to use each grade properly, and for it's intended purpose. The consumer on the other hand doesn't want 3 different grades on hand, it's more economical to have an all-purpose clay. But, again, it's all about clean clay, light pressure, and plenty of lubrication...
Happy Motoring!... Jim'99
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Thanks - I clayed my car for the first time last month - was very impressed with the results - it has piqued my interest because I want to proceed carefully with this tool.
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01-05-2007, 06:31 AM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 8,709
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Clay the car ASAP. I'd even suggest doing the whole car. When paint is airborne from an aerosol can it drifts everywhere. Not knowing what type of paint was used in the garage its hard to say if it will etch your clear coat when it is removed but there's no point in waiting. Hit the areas where you did see paint with a light swirl remover (speed not pressure) like Poorboys SSR1 or Meguiar's ScratchX.
Personally, I'd strip all the wax off using your Zaino polish after washing with a liquid detergent like Dawn or a proper auto shampoo.
Try spraying a quick detailing lubricant (Z8?) or whatever you can get at the auto store on the panel before you apply the polish/wax/sealant, let it haze over and respray the panel to remove it. Rubbing on paint is very invasive and considering you should only be doing this a few times a year (polishing/sealing) its very good insurance to ward off streaking the clear coat with dry rubbing. And use the cleanest/newest towels you have. Speed when wiping the surface, as little pressure as possible.
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Last edited by Perfectlap; 01-05-2007 at 06:33 AM.
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01-05-2007, 08:18 AM
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#8
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Guest
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Ive claybard my entire car with meguiers clay and quick detailer. You will need to use a lot of pressure at those specific sites, or else it wont do anything. For everything else you can do it regularly and it should smooth it well. Then re wax your entire car.
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01-05-2007, 09:28 AM
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: chicago
Posts: 3,510
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thx guys, i guess ill just clay the hood and the fender and re-zaino it.
__________________
http://i34.tinypic.com/157yslk.jpg
"I couldn't find the sports car of my dreams, so I built it myself." ~F. Porsche
Gemballa springs::litronics::Eurotech 18s(275/225)::B&M::MOMO wheel::
exhaust cutouts::EVOcoldair intake::OEM smoked tails & sidemarkers::
colormatched bumperettes::Top Speed Pro-1 exhaust::
my cardomain/pictures page
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01-05-2007, 10:25 AM
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#10
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Guest
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Here is a very low-tech solution.......
try washing the car! Nothing sticks to my Zaino finish...and certainly nothing sticks to my Rejex trated front bumper and wheels.
Just a thought.
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01-05-2007, 11:02 AM
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#11
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: chicago
Posts: 3,510
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well i had 2 coats of zaino on there already, and i wanted to put another one, so while i was wasing...or actually drying the car i noticed it. it wasnt there while i was putting 2nd coat on, then my dad told me that he was doing some work in garage and painting, so i kow it was that
__________________
http://i34.tinypic.com/157yslk.jpg
"I couldn't find the sports car of my dreams, so I built it myself." ~F. Porsche
Gemballa springs::litronics::Eurotech 18s(275/225)::B&M::MOMO wheel::
exhaust cutouts::EVOcoldair intake::OEM smoked tails & sidemarkers::
colormatched bumperettes::Top Speed Pro-1 exhaust::
my cardomain/pictures page
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