Not cranking

[tommydorsey]

Hello -

2000 base Boxster, around 40K miles. Has driven fine since we've had it - around 13 or 14 years. Last driven in the fall, then parked in our (unheated) garage. (So no excess moisture) Went to move it to make room for the snow blower (NJ) and - no crank. I figured dead battery, so put the charger on. When it showed full charge, I tried again. No crank. No fuel pump noise. All the lights work, windows work. In my investigation here, it appears that this is the immobilizer acting up? I tried to get at it just now, but I do not own any female Torx sockets. Coming tomorrow from Amazon. Then I can get the seat out, hopefully get the immobilizer out and check it for problems.

I read about doing a voltage drop test, but when I looked on Youtube, it appeared the engine has to be cranking to do that. True?

Thanks for any help!

Jim

[DonQ]

How old is your battery? They can show full charge but still be weak.

Do you have a jumper pack? You can take the battery to most auto parts stores for testing.

That would be my first path before messing with the immobilized.

[blue62]

Originally Posted by tommydorsey

Hello -

2000 base Boxster, around 40K miles. Has driven fine since we've had it - around 13 or 14 years. Last driven in the fall, then parked in our (unheated) garage. (So no excess moisture) Went to move it to make room for the snow blower (NJ) and - no crank. I figured dead battery, so put the charger on. When it showed full charge, I tried again. No crank. No fuel pump noise. All the lights work, windows work. In my investigation here, it appears that this is the immobilizer acting up? I tried to get at it just now, but I do not own any female Torx sockets. Coming tomorrow from Amazon. Then I can get the seat out, hopefully get the immobilizer out and check it for problems.

I read about doing a voltage drop test, but when I looked on Youtube, it appeared the engine has to be cranking to do that. True?

Thanks for any help!

Jim

The engine does not have to be cranking to do a voltage drop test on the starter system.
BUT the starter circuit does have to be under load.....meaning key on and in the start crank position.
The real issue with a voltage drop test is access to the wiring and the wiring connections in the starting circuit,
I would start by checking the starter relay and any fuses related to the starting system. see if they are good and also see if your getting power to the starter relay. If no power to the relay then it is more likely an imobilizer issue.

[tommydorsey]

"Worst case" IS my middle name...

It was the battery. Seeing the charger report 'full charge' was a mis-direct.

Thanks for the help!