11-09-2025, 09:50 AM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2023
Location: Netherlands
Posts: 186
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I ordered one of the plastic covers for the brake reservoir of a RHD car. It was cheap, so shipping costs a bit of time, but I might get it later this week.
Old brake line is removed, new one is waiting for me at the dealer. Gave me some time to look at the parts on the wreck. I can't use that subframe is it has the additional bolts to the chassis. Was looking at that because one threaded hole in my subframe is damaged from removal of the bolt. Well, I think it was already damaged by the looks of the stuff that came out. Looks like it was glued in place. Anyway, it shouldn't be too hard to repair the threads, or rather drill it out and tap it one size bigger.
The front ARB was removed from the wreck and this is the 24mm one. So I need to think which one to place on my car. Leaning towards the thicker one, accepting the increased understeer for the time, until I swap the rear one out. This does feel a bit better to me as I still need to get to know the car.
Also I looked at the wiring diagram of both cars. As far as I can see F7 (in the power distribution box) should not be present in my car. So I can either use this for the additional fuse required by the ABS, or I can use it for the power steering pump. My first thought is that it is most tidy to use it for the power steering and tap the additional ABS power from one of the unused fuses in the fusebox.
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11-19-2025, 12:37 PM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2023
Location: Netherlands
Posts: 186
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There are quite a few cars with the power steering pump mounted horizontally. I wonder why I couldn't do the same with a volvo pump (I'd need the one for external reservoir, but otherwise they are the same).
Horizontally, it would fit in the frunk, below the plastic trim piece, easily...
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11-22-2025, 03:08 AM
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2023
Location: Netherlands
Posts: 186
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So, I've been thinking a bit. Seeing many conversions where people have put the pump in the wheel arch (most of the time in front of the wheel), why not do something similar?
So obviously the front is not going to work, it is already tight enough with the radiators there and some space for the air to flow.
But, at the rear of the drivers side front wheel, there is only the windscreen washer bottle. A quick look leads me to believe there is enough space to fit a power steering pump there. Still the rack is close, the reservoir can be put where we currently have the washer bottle filler neck.
If this all fits, I would then only have to find a washer bottle which I can mount, preferably, on the right side of the battery. That would leave the frunk nice and empty...
Any thoughts?
Last edited by Marc_986; 11-22-2025 at 11:22 AM.
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12-12-2025, 02:42 PM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2023
Location: Netherlands
Posts: 186
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Managed to find some time to continue this story. Picked up a remanufactured steering rack for a good price at a specialist shop. So that'll go in once the other aspects are covered.
I made a 'bracket' out of some sheet aluminium I had around. Bend by hand and cut with some tin snips. It is now inserted in the same holes that normally hold the washer bottle (I had a spare washer bottle around from which I cut the pins that go into those holes). It is not perfect, but does allow me to continue measuring and fitting. I removed the reservoir of the pump as the remote reservoir units are only slightly larger than the bare pump itself.
Shot from below, so you can see where it might sit:
From the side a view of the top. I should be able to get the hose routed in to the remote reservoir (which would still be higher than the pump).
Not complete without trying to fit the liner back. As you can see I need to rotate the pump a bit (it is mainly the cut pressure line that pushes on the liner) and might need to move it up slightly more. Also it looks like I can reduce the tilt a bit. The bump in the liner looks significant, but that is partly due to it pushing the side away from the bodywork.
Christmas period is upon us shortly, but I hope I can make a few iterations and get it to fit. Hose routing doesn't seem too difficult (yet).
Last edited by Marc_986; 12-12-2025 at 11:16 PM.
Reason: Cropped the last picture
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12-16-2025, 02:52 AM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2023
Location: Netherlands
Posts: 186
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Played a bit more with positioning of the pump. It is a bit tight, but I'm quite positive it'll fit. So I ordered a pump with remote reservoir and which includes the volvo bracket and rubber suspension things. Maybe that helps a bit towards the final positioning and bracket.
Meanwhile I have taken the Boxter S cooland pipes out of the wreck as well as the coolant pipes out of my base car. I didn't quite imagine the difference would be so large:
Looking at the area of the pipes on left / right sides, it is a very significant difference:
Another thing I didn't realize is that basically everything between the engine and radiators is different in diameter. So not just these pipes and relevant hoses, but also the short pieces of pipe in the wheel wells and hoses to the radiators.
I'll keep my car double radiator for now, so I need to find two additional hoses (as I won't be using the T-junction hoses towards the third radiator). All other parts (including clamps / brackets etc.) I can just transfer from the wreck
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12-17-2025, 01:58 PM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 2,013
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Mark, the pictures of the metal cooling pipes, one comes from a Base boxter and the other from the S model..? If so, then the difference is impressive!
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12-18-2025, 12:25 PM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2023
Location: Netherlands
Posts: 186
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Yes indeed, the black pipe is the base, the alu color one is the S.
Before I mount it back I'll put my caliper in, but seems at least three times the area.
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01-09-2026, 02:39 PM
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2023
Location: Netherlands
Posts: 186
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Some other parts arrived, mainly the inner and outer steering tie-rods with boots, but also two new brake hoses and the swaybar bushings. Oh, and a bottle of CHF202 for my power steering.
While trying to sort out the power steering side, I did assemble the rack such that it is now protected (from dust, debris etc etc) before it'll be mounted back. Yes, I will need to crimp the rack side still.
The tie-rods are a lot stiffer, as expected. No play on the old ones, but the difference with the new ones is huge. These are firm.
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