Swapping engines

[LoneWolfGal]

Gilles, I sent you a PM.

[LoneWolfGal]

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

Loctite SI 5900 Ready Gasket

JFP, where do you obtain your Loctite SI 5900? Amazon has only a 5-oz tube for $68.

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by LoneWolfGal

JFP, where do you obtain your Loctite SI 5900? Amazon has only a 5-oz tube for $68.

We get ours from a local auto parts store, if memory serves, about $17-18 per tube in a six tube case.

[LoneWolfGal]

While waiting for the cam timing kit to arrive I figured I'd begin the process of dropping the old engine. After elevating the car on jack stands, I tried to put it in service mode, first making sure the parking brake was engaged and the relatively new battery was charged to the max. But nothing happened when I pressed the button. Nary even a click, buzz, or hum to be heard. The powered top was working properly back in September when I parked the car, but it ain't working now. "Fuse," I said to myself, "or relay." I removed the fuse panel cover to have a look. The little booklet thoughtfully provided under the cover indicated that B6 and D3 are the fuses for the convertible top:



However, B6 also powers the turn signals and windows, both of which are functional, so if a fuse is the culprit it would have to be D3. The fuse panel layout:



I couldn't help but note that the layout in the booklet doesn't seem to correspond to the panel's layout. The booklet shows five rows of fuses but the panel has six, including the row to the right of the spoiler switch. If the spoiler switch's row isn't relevant, is the top row's designation A or E?



As for the relays, the convertible top's relay is supposedly a double relay. I read it, so it must be true. I'm guessing the largest relay in the photo is the one they're referring to:



Hope some kind soul can clear up my confusion.

[elav]

You mentioned engaging the parking brake - is the dash light for the e-brake too?

[LoneWolfGal]

Originally Posted by elav

You mentioned engaging the parking brake - is the dash light for the e-brake too?

Not sure if this is what you're asking, but the dash light is on when the parking brake is engaged, and off when it's not engaged. Which means the brake's microswitch is functional.

[LoneWolfGal]

The 30 amp fuse at D3 looks fine. I removed the relay and tapped it on a hard surface to free up corroded internal contacts. Still no go. The total silence when the button is pressed is odd. I would think I'd hear a click, buzz, hum, or something. That's why I suspected a fuse or relay. The relay could still be bad, but I'm not sure how to check it with my multimeter.

[piper6909]

OOPS. Sorry, 78F450. I just saw that you posted a link to the same diagnostic procedure.

[JFP in PA]

Porsche only sell the tool with the Vario Cam actuator, not separately.

[piper6909]

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

Porsche only sell the tool with the Vario Cam actuator, not separately.

How many variocam actuators did you buy over the years? Just curious.

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by piper6909

How many variocam actuators did you buy over the years? Just curious.

I'd have to check the records, but off hand probably a few dozen.

[piper6909]

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

I'd have to check the records, but off hand probably a few dozen.

More power to you. I've seen videos of these engines tron down and all I can say is, "Were those German engineers just out to **************** with us??"

[piper6909]

OK so I found this video where a guy makes his own variocam tool, but buying everything doesn't seem to be worth it. However, he did tell us the size and pitch of the thread: M5 x 0.8

It's worth lookng at the video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ygSKeRW5F2U

Then I found a source for LEFT HAND M5-0.8 allthread, but longest they have 10CM. Is that long enough? I don't know. $13.04 Each.

https://accu-components.com/us/left-hand-thread-threaded-bars/409371-HTBL-M5-1000-A4?google_shopping=1&c=2&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADI7_w57vz2S-a5EuY8ShHnKa0XBa&gclid=CjwKCAjwn6LABhBSEiwAsNJrjqzn0v3UBW_rck_eByir Phj6HkeKNTvzkQTYQLJGmKplfkA7lzsy6xoCM6AQAvD_BwE

Lastly, you'll need left-hand M5 nuts, the same place as above sells them: (Doesn't spec pitch size, so you may want to contact them and ask.) $1.41 Each.

https://accu-components.com/us/left-hand-thread-hex-nuts/73115-HPNL-M5-A2

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by piper6909

OK so I found this video where a guy makes his own variocam tool, but buying everything doesn't seem to be worth it. However, he did tell us the size and pitch of the thread: M5 x 0.8

It's worth lookng at the video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ygSKeRW5F2U

Then I found a source for LEFT HAND M5-0.8 allthread, but longest they have 10CM. Is that long enough? I don't know. $13.04 Each.

https://accu-components.com/us/left-hand-thread-threaded-bars/409371-HTBL-M5-1000-A4?google_shopping=1&c=2&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADI7_w57vz2S-a5EuY8ShHnKa0XBa&gclid=CjwKCAjwn6LABhBSEiwAsNJrjqzn0v3UBW_rck_eByir Phj6HkeKNTvzkQTYQLJGmKplfkA7lzsy6xoCM6AQAvD_BwE

Lastly, you'll need left-hand M5 nuts, the same place as above sells them: (Doesn't spec pitch size, so you may want to contact them and ask.) $1.41 Each.

https://accu-components.com/us/left-hand-thread-hex-nuts/73115-HPNL-M5-A2

Amazon also sell the rod, in stainless steel, and the fastners; the rod alone was seven dollars and change.

[piper6909]

I found this at Grainger for $5.67! 1 Meter long! You can cut it to whatever size you want. Just taper off the cut end on your new grinder to grind off the damaged part of the thread so you can get a nut on it. Or you can run a nut in from the factory cut end and out the end that you cut to chase the threads.

https://www.grainger.com/product/Fully-Threaded-Rod-M5x0-8-38DK86

And the sell left-hand nuts for $1.61 for a bag of 50.

https://www.grainger.com/product/Hex-Nut-M5-0-80-Thread-22YK31

There's a Grainger in Portland, if it's not far from you. They don't stock it, so you'll have to get it shipped to you or the store for pickup.

P.S. I got the IMSB tool back, thank you.

[LoneWolfGal]

Originally Posted by piper6909

P.S. I got the IMSB tool back, thank you.

You're very welcome, Al. Be sure to open the box.

[LoneWolfGal]

Originally Posted by piper6909

I found this at Grainger for $5.67! 1 Meter long! You can cut it to whatever size you want. Just taper off the cut end on your new grinder to grind off the damaged part of the thread so you can get a nut on it. Or you can run a nut in from the factory cut end and out the end that you cut to chase the threads.

https://www.grainger.com/product/Fully-Threaded-Rod-M5x0-8-38DK86

And the sell left-hand nuts for $1.61 for a bag of 50.

https://www.grainger.com/product/Hex-Nut-M5-0-80-Thread-22YK31

There's a Grainger in Portland, if it's not far from you. They don't stock it, so you'll have to get it shipped to you or the store for pickup.

P.S. I got the IMSB tool back, thank you.

Good sleuthing, Al. Alas, I ordered the tool from FunAhead, and it will be here in three days. But I don't see why the rod from Grainger wouldn't do the job after a some modifying. I definitely would have tried it, but I'm feeling the press of time — the folks who own the place I'm renting are putting it up for sale, so I have to finish this engine and get it in the car.

[piper6909]

Originally Posted by LoneWolfGal

Good sleuthing, Al. Alas, I ordered the tool from FunAhead, and it will be here in three days. But I don't see why the rod from Grainger wouldn't do the job after a some modifying. I definitely would have tried it, but I'm feeling the press of time — the folks who own the place I'm renting are putting it up for sale, so I have to finish this engine and get it in the car.

Understood. Maybe you can post the length of the tool once you get it. It could help someone who wants to make their own. We already know the diameter and thread pitch. I'm guessing 10 to 13CM or 4-5 inches will do the trick.

[LoneWolfGal]

Originally Posted by piper6909

Understood. Maybe you can post the length of the tool once you get it. It could help someone who wants to make their own. We already know the diameter and thread pitch. I'm guessing 10 to 13CM or 4-5 inches will do the trick.

I would be surprised if Grant hasn't already fabricated one. How about it, Grant?

[elgyqc]

Originally Posted by LoneWolfGal

I would be surprised if Grant hasn't already fabricated one. How about it, Grant?

Have you been spying on me? Actually, on the first engine I did I was rather naughty, I just used a tap to change the threaded hole to take a standard right-hand SAE bolt, see post #9 here,
https://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-chat/80969-going-through-my-original-engine.html

I then thought about using a smaller bolt that would pass through the threaded hole, with nuts at both ends to accomplish the same thing.
Finally I bought a left-hand die and and some bronze rod and made a couple of tools. It was not easy and not one of my great tool making moments... I thought I had documented it somewhere but can't find it.
It is also possible to use a clamp to compress the tensioner, which I tried the first time round, but the clamp tends to slip off the tangs.