Swapping engines

[Newsguy]

That is exactly the point.
They say the replacement is only good for a specific interval.
From LN:
Roller bearings, like ball bearings, will have service intervals, requiring future replacement, even if manufacturers claim otherwise. The only IMS replacement that is permanent and does not require future servicing is the IMS Solution which is based on the oil pressure fed plain bearing design used by Porsche for the Mezger engine's intermediate shaft.
And:
It is best practice to replace the IMS bearing as part of regular preventative maintenance. Depending on what bearing technology is used, service intervals can vary greatly, with the IMS Solution's oil fed plain IMS bearing is considered the best solution to prevent IMS bearing failures.
Personally, I prefer one and done.
I'm deep enough in this engine that I do not wish to be doing this work again on a regular basis.

[piper6909]

Originally Posted by Newsguy

That is exactly the point.
They say the replacement is only good for a specific interval.
From LN:
Roller bearings, like ball bearings, will have service intervals, requiring future replacement, even if manufacturers claim otherwise. The only IMS replacement that is permanent and does not require future servicing is the IMS Solution which is based on the oil pressure fed plain bearing design used by Porsche for the Mezger engine's intermediate shaft.
And:
It is best practice to replace the IMS bearing as part of regular preventative maintenance. Depending on what bearing technology is used, service intervals can vary greatly, with the IMS Solution's oil fed plain IMS bearing is considered the best solution to prevent IMS bearing failures.
Personally, I prefer one and done.
I'm deep enough in this engine that I do not wish to be doing this work again on a regular basis.

LN guarantees the "solution" for 5 years, and that's only if you have it installed by one of their certified shops. You can find replacement engines for less than what that would cost. There are DIYers who will have no problem with replacing the bearing while they replace the clutch.

You say you put nickies and you have a lot invested in your engine so the solution is the perfect choice for you. But that doesn't mean it's the perfect choice for everybody.

I think LoneWolfGal did her research, she fully understands the options, and made the best choice for her. I will look forward to reading her updates on the project.

[LoneWolfGal]

Originally Posted by Newsguy

That is exactly the point.
They say the replacement is only good for a specific interval.
From LN:
Roller bearings, like ball bearings, will have service intervals, requiring future replacement, even if manufacturers claim otherwise. The only IMS replacement that is permanent and does not require future servicing is the IMS Solution which is based on the oil pressure fed plain bearing design used by Porsche for the Mezger engine's intermediate shaft.
And:
It is best practice to replace the IMS bearing as part of regular preventative maintenance. Depending on what bearing technology is used, service intervals can vary greatly, with the IMS Solution's oil fed plain IMS bearing is considered the best solution to prevent IMS bearing failures.
Personally, I prefer one and done.
I'm deep enough in this engine that I do not wish to be doing this work again on a regular basis.

The dueling excerpts. At the very least, LN's website contains contradictory information. A person who does her own wrenching is in a different position than folks who have it done for them. PIper6909 made a telling point about LN's requirement that the Solution be installed by a certified Porsche shop to qualify for their limited, five-year warranty. That would cost probably three to four grand, parts and labor. An individual's financial means factors heavily into the equation. I shelled out $4200 (including shipping), for a low-miles engine. Am I going to blow almost another two grand on the Solution when I can't install it myself without voiding the warranty?! Not bloody likely! I've heard nothing but good things about ceramic-hybrid bearings. Even Porsche guru JFP, whose credibility is beyond reproach, has gone on record in this forum with his approval of LN's Retrofit. That's good enough for me.

-30-

[LoneWolfGal]

I've been studying a series of videos featuring Jake Raby, particularly one in which he demonstrates how to replace the IMS bearing and rear main seal. Raby is a fount of knowledge when it comes to Porsche engines, much of it esoteric. He mentioned in passing other parts that were candidates for replacement while the engine was out of the car:

oil pressure sending unit
oil pressure sensor (same as previous?)
fuel pressure regulator
rollers for belt
hose clamps
release bearing
air-oil separator (AOS)
crankshaft position sensor
positive crankcase ventilation conduits
grounding strap
VarioCam ramps
timing chain
cam chain guide ramps
slave cylinder on transmission
exhaust clamps

His recommendations were for the 99,000-mile demo engine in the video. Given that my new engine has only 39,000 miles on it, I wasn't planning to replace many parts beyond the IMS bearing and probably the rear main seal. However, replacing some of the parts in Raby's list makes sense to me. I would greatly appreciate additional advice about this, with my engine's relatively low miles in mind.

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by LoneWolfGal

I've been studying a series of videos featuring Jake Raby that demonstrate how to replace the iMS bearing and rear main seal. Raby is a fount of knowledge when it comes to Porsche engines, much of it esoteric. He mentioned in passing other parts that were candidates for replacement while the engine was out of the car:

oil pressure sending unit
oil pressure sensor (same as previous?)
fuel pressure regulator
rollers for belt
hose clamps
release bearing
air-oil separator (AOS)
crankshaft position sensor
positive crankcase ventilation conduits
grounding strap
VarioCam ramps
timing chain
cam chain guide ramps
slave cylinder on transmission
exhaust clamps

His recommendations applied to the 88,000-mile demo engine in the video. Given that my new engine has only 39,000 miles on it, I wasn't planning to replace many parts beyond the IMS bearing and probably the rear main seal. However, replacing some of the parts in Raby's list makes sense to me. I would greatly appreciate additional advice about this, with my engine's relatively low miles in mind.

What year and size is your new engine?

[LoneWolfGal]

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

What year and size is your new engine?

It's a 2.7L M96 out of a 2000 986, not sure what series — M96.1, M96.2, etc.

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by LoneWolfGal

It's a 2.7L M96 out of a 2000 986, not sure what series — M96.1, M96.2, etc.

OK, it is a five-chain engine; I would replace the IMS, RMS, AoS, pilot bearing, throw out bearing, clutch, flywheel (if it is in poor condition), and definitely the chain wear pads between the cams. WIth the engine on a stand, all of these are simple replacements, in the car some are not so much easy to get at. I would also pull the oil pump cassette, look at the pump gears for signs of wear, and replace the pump drive shaft which is investment cast garbage and replace it with LN's chrome moly steel replacement. I would also consider replacing the PCV valve and line to the AoS while they are accessible, and also the oil level gauge sender for the same reason. A new water pump (factory only), low temp thermostat, and upgrade the engine to the "S" oil cooler, one of the cheapest longevity items you can put on a base engine.

[LoneWolfGal]

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

OK, it is a five-chain engine; I would replace the IMS, RMS, AoS, pilot bearing, throw out bearing, clutch, flywheel (if it is in poor condition), and definitely the chain wear pads between the cams. WIth the engine on a stand, all of these are simple replacements, in the car some are not so much easy to get at. I would also pull the oil pump cassette, look at the pump gears for signs of wear, and replace the pump drive shaft which is investment cast garbage and replace it with LN's chrome moly steel replacement. I would also consider replacing the PCV valve and line to the AoS while they are accessible, and also the oil level gauge sender for the same reason. A new water pump (factory only), low temp thermostat, and upgrade the engine to the "S" oil cooler, one of the cheapest longevity items you can put on a base engine.

Many thanks, JFP. I'm on it.