It is your car and your money, but both statements are wrong, the oil feed for the DOF comes from the cylinder head, one of the hottest and dirtiest sources of oil in the engine, the Solution takes it from the oil filter area, which is just after the oil cooler and after the oil has just been filtered. It isn't even remotely close to what the Solution is

https://tunersmall.com/wp-content/up...05-image-2.jpg

First time I ever heard of this product. I have read that on some engines the RMS leak is a problem but I have only replaced the seal as preventive maintenance. The old seals were not really leaking only seeping a little.

I agree, the cylinder head would be about the worst source of oil, definitely a dealbreaker. But I wonder where "screwing on a (supplied) adapter" comes into the picture? That could describe LN's Solution's method. Curious to know what Pedro has to say about this matter? I am, so I'll ask him. And hey — good looking out.

If you look at the photo I sent above, the fitting on the left with the Oring seal on it is the one that screws into the cylinder head port. No one can use the spin on filter adaptor used in the Solution, like many other features, it is patented.

I'm very curious to see how Pedro will justify those statements. I won't hold my breath. I've emailed him three times in the past two days with questions about the technoFIX and he has yet to respond. Maybe he only wants customers who don't ask questions.

also a faulty oil/coolant heat exchanger also could create the similar symptoms, easier to fix than a head with a crack as you mentioned overheating.. :-(.

The old engine will be going to a guy in Roseburg. I'll relay that to him.

LoneWolfGal, I sent you a PM :p

Those of you who have hoisted an M96, where on the engine did you attach the hoist's chains via metal straps bolted to these attachment points?

I use heavy duty nylon rachat straps that I put around the crankshaft pulley in the front and around the transmission in the rear, if the transmission is still attached, or the engine stand adaptor if it is being installed on the engine stand.

Same style like elgyqc on previous message, but I routed the heavy duty (2000kg) ratchet strap apround both cyliner blocks being veeeeery careful not to allow the strap to compress anything besides the cylinder blocks.
Connected both ends of the strap at the center above the cranckcase. Worked real well and engine stayed level during the lift to engine stand. Same on oppsite direction as the engine built was ready.

I've bolted hoists' chains to the blocks of a couple of conventional engines and it worked great, very secure. I've seen photos of M96 engines suspended that way on eBay. I should have paid closer attention to where they were attached. BTW, I bought one of these.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1728190354.jpg

Well, dang it. I can't find an engine on eBay that's suspended via chains with steel straps bolted somewhere on the engine. The way it had been done looked pretty slick. On a straight six and a V8, I bolted the hoist's chains to the exhaust manifolds' bolt holes (with the manifolds removed). The M96 is a way different bird, so in the interest of expediency I might have to use the nylon strap method like you guys did. I have a couple beefy straps with ratchets that should easily do the job.

It looks like TuneRS also sells the Pedro DOF. They say it is something they developed. Maybe Pedro is also affiliated with them. Idk

Anyway, they show the exact same picture for their kit. But they have some install videos that might answer some of your questions.

I too would like to install the solution, but it’s half the cost of a replacement engine 😳

That's exactly what I said. As an insurance buy, it's a horrible ROI. It's not like these engines would be otherwise bulletproof, anyway. If it's not the IMS, it's d-chunks or something else. When I had my transmission out for service, I decided to just put in a new bearing and call it a day, like Burner ended up doing. But it turns out the engine in mine was replaced with an M97 so I couldn't even do that.

Two questions:
1. You didn't use the hoist point by the throttle body?
2. Did you find an engine stand adapter for the M96, and if so, for under $700?

Ah... this is what I was talking about. I'll probably give it a try.
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1728323206.jpg
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1728323228.jpg

home made lift
 

LoneWolfGal, I have a cherry picker, and also the lift table that you already have and would like to share what worked out for me with the car on jack stands.

Since you will have a limited clearance between the floor and the chassis, if you put the engine/gearbox on the table lift, unfortunately it will not clear the frame.. and this process worked out for me.

Once the car is on four jack stands (high and level) then you can 'slide' the engine/gearbox from the back using a furniture dolly, or two large card boxes in top of each other so one would slide on top of the other one

After you get the powertrain underneath the car, you can lift it with the cherry picker so you can put the lift table underneath the engine, then you remove the engine, but to have more clearance I built a simple home made lift using Home Depot parts (less than $20..) and this thing would allow you to hang the engine/gearbox from the top and by turning the nut you can fine tune it (up-down) so you can easily bolt the gearbox and engine mounts.

The cherry picker is only used to raise the engine/gearbox after they are under the car and also to move the assembly around the garage

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1728333285.jpg

Thanks for the info, Gilles. Much appreciated. I also picked up an engine support bar (see below), so I should be all set. (The support bar will supposedly "Make repair and clean easier." I'm still trying to decipher that, but I'm all for easy cleanup.) Kinda wish I had a second engine dolly, but I can make do with one, since I have the cherry picker to move the engines around the garage, as you pointed out.

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/redirect?link_code=ur2&camp=1789&creative=9325&pat h=https://www.amazon.com/VEVOR-Support-Capacity-Transverse-Garages/dp/B096FY98BS/

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1728339501.jpg
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1728339565.jpg

my engine support bar was a lot cheaper.. LOL :p

Regarding the furniture dolly, these cost between $10-$20 at Harbor freight, perhaps Walmart as well

Well, I'll be a monkey's aunt! I found what I've been looking for right here:

https://986forum.com/forums/boxster-general-discussions/58273-engine-lift-hook.html

[Note to self: Search 986forum first.]

I plan use the described lift hook point in conjunction with another attachment point, one of the motor mount's bolt holes at the front of the engine, the same way the eBay engine was suspended. The lift hook attachment point alone is not intended to support the entire 570 lbs.

Hey, thanks again. As for your improvised support bar, you know the old saying — "Necessity plays with the Mothers of Invention." The thing about the stuff we fabricate, the price is right. I believe I will pay Harbor Freight a visit tomorrow. One of their $20 furniture (soon to be engine) dollies will probably do the job almost as well as my overpriced ($92) diamond plate, heavy-duty (2000 lb capacity) dolly. If I ever need to move a stack of four M96s, though, the diamond plate dolly will get the nod.

1. My friend Newart hung the whole engine by that little bracket near the throttle body, for a short period of time... but I only have used it as a backup to some other means. With another attachment point on the front of the engine, so it is only carrying half the weight, maybe... but it would make me nervous.

2. I use a standard adjustable adapter which works fine unless you want to split the crankcase halves, in that case you need the $pecial adapter. I was even able to change the IMS bearing with the standard adapter. When I split the crankcase on my broken 3.2 engine I did it on a pallet on the floor.

I like to live dangerously! On a serious note, the provided lift hook point seems fairly sturdy. Folks have apparently been using it, together with an attachment point in front, without a problem. But if I'm wrong and the engine crushes my head like a grape, I'll get back to you.

The reason I ask is that I'm starting a rebuild and when I took it down, at the point of spltting the cases and getting the IMS out, it got very awkward with a standard adapter.
So I'm looking at options besides spending nearly a thousand dollars for the specific one. Of course, JFP in Philly says it can be done with a regular engine stand.

Why don't you assembly the engine halves on a table, then mount the assembly to the stand and then proceed with the heads and accessories?

I've decided maybe I don't need no dang direct oil feed for my M96's IMS bearing. I'm leaning toward LN Engineering's ceramic double row IMS Retrofit. The price of $999 is a far cry from economical, but it's less painful than $1899. Not that I wouldn't choose the Solution if cost were no object, but after laying out $4200 for that new engine...

I'm waiting for Sunset Porsche Parts ("GENUINE FACTORY PARTS") to tell me the price of the OEM ceramic IMS bearing, since I can't seem to find it elsewhere. I could be wrong, but I'm guessing it will come in under $999, even though it's a genuine factory part. In the meantime...

Talked to a guy who turned out to be a hardcore Porsche purist. He also drives a 2000 silver/black 986. Mine has a few non-OEM parts, while his was OEM all the way. Every nut, bolt, and screw on his car was OEM, he told me, including the steel-bearing IMS. "Correct," he called it. He recently replaced the heater core, cost him almost $600 for the OEM core.

I've read about that kind of thing. It's a type of OCD mania. Glad I don't have it. I bought my heater core from Amazon for $115. It looked "correct" to me. Seems like a harmless compulsion, though, so more power to him.

Corvette purists are the same even to the point of having the correct markings on all bolts throughout the entire car.. Had a '58 for over 30 years and built it to drive it. To each his own.

John

As if my hands weren't full with getting things ready for the impending engine swap, Suzi Isuzu, my much-loved '98 4WD SUV, which I bought new and has only 49,000 miles on it, needed attention, starter-wise. Specifically, her solenoid plunger, which engages the starter, was making erratic connection with a set of copper contacts. It's a $16 kit. However, as claustrophobically tight spaces go, getting to the solenoid to replace it is as challenging as it gets. It makes the 986's ignition switch (which I replaced earlier this year) seem comparatively accessible. At any rate, that's why swap-related updates have fallen off of late.

Sunset Porsche Parts finally got back to me with a price for their "OEM" IMS ceramic-hybrid bearing..Turns out Sunset is actually Porsche Beaverton, and their IMS bearings are actually LN Engineering's products. However, Sunset charges $2271.42 for LN's ceramic bearing, compared to $999 directly from LN — literally highway robbery! I didn't ask how much they're charging for LN's Solution, but it's a safe bet it would make a strong person shudder and possibly faint.

You sure that isn't an installed price?

That's what I asked them, but they're slow to respond. However, I tried to make it clear that the bearing was intended for the new engine before I put it in the car. That would explain the high price, though. Would your shop install the bearing for that kind of money?

Depending upon the vehicle (Tip vs manual), and what else needs to done at the same time, but it is in the right ballpark.

Luke at Sunset Parts is a gentleman and a very supportive person, however it seems that they are a bit over helmed and that could be the reason of their slow response.
..

Sunset Porsche Parts' texted reply:

that is just a parts price. You
will need to ask service for an
installation cost
-- Luke Rogers

I doubt their 225-percent markup from LN's price is Luke's doing. Wonder how much they're charging for a Solution? I think I'll ask Luke. I heard slapping the forehead improves circulation.

Luke from Sunset texted me with an answer this morning:

The IMS Solution parts kit is
$4412.82 and we will need to
order it in for you.

That's more than I paid for the engine itself.

Now for we (or some of us) who live in the real world...
https://www.123bearing.com/bearing-housing/deep-groove-bearing/double-row/bd20-17-a-ddua17nx01-nsk#container-tech-schema

This Luke probably wants to make sure and install two of these into your engine. The rest must be the price for ordering.
https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/LN1060860.htm?pn=LN-106-08-60&bc=c&SVSVSI=

I'm curious... and correct me if I'm wrong... but...

Are you considering putting in the OEM bearing... and isn't that the part (OEM) that is subject to failure?

As an aside... is Sunset ripping people off? The unsuspecting ones?