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Yes, I figured that out, but thank you. Could you point out D3 on the panel itself? That's what I'm scratching my head about.

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Much obliged, 78F350! That's exactly what I needed. I'll check that fuse, but it could easily be the relay instead. Relays get corroded. Tapping it on a hard surface like a pack of cigarettes often fixes the problem.

This may sound stupid, but did you release the latch? I have another convertible with automatic latches, and when try to open the Boxster, I often forget to open the latch. It's a brief "WTF??" moment until I remember I have to unlatch it.

And btw, that sixth row by the spoiler switch is for spare fuses.

Fortunately, I had the presence of mind to release the latch above before I pressed the button. And I removed one of fuses from the sixth row, realized there were no contacts for it in the panel, and concluded they were spares. As for the missing fuses in the panel, mostly in row E, I assume those are for options my car is not equipped with. (BTW, I need to need to make sure all fuses are facing the same way, to keep my OCD at bay.) Thanks for chiming in, Al. That was actually an astute question. Sometimes the most obvious things are easy to overlook.

You mentioned engaging the parking brake - is the dash light for the e-brake too?

Not sure if this is what you're asking, but the dash light is on when the parking brake is engaged, and off when it's not engaged. Which means the brake's microswitch is functional.

The 30 amp fuse at D3 looks fine. I removed the relay and tapped it on a hard surface to free up corroded internal contacts. Still no go. The total silence when the button is pressed is odd. I would think I'd hear a click, buzz, hum, or something. That's why I suspected a fuse or relay. The relay could still be bad, but I'm not sure how to check it with my multimeter.

Any chance that the motor for the top was disconnected while you were around the engine compartment?
Here's the Pelican Parts DIY for top repair which may or may not be helpful: https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/71-BODY-Convertible_Top_Repair/71-BODY-Convertible_Top_Repair.htm

Somewhere I've got a troubleshooting chart for the relay. It may be hidden in the Bentley Manual somewhere too. Here's a post from 997_986 that looks like it has the same procedure: https://986forum.com/forums/662149-post7.html

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Here's a picture of feral cat 'Handsome Dan'. He's very playful for a feral:
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Excellent question. But in the interest of expediency I'm taking another tack: I'll lower the top manually. Just as soon as I find out how to do it.

If you have a multimeter (or even a test light), I found this that 997_986 also posted:

I recommend checking these points before you test it with a new relay...

TROUBLESHOOTING ON THE RELAY CONTROLLER
Note: Control relay disconnected. The terminal designation on the relay (Fig. 596_97) is from the underside of the control relay.
1. connect the measuring device (voltmeter) to terminal 22 (earth) and terminal 23 (plus 30) on the relay plate. Display = battery voltage
2. connect the measuring device to terminal 22 (earth) and terminal 26. Switch on the ignition. Display = battery voltage
3. connect the measuring device to terminal 23 (plus) and terminal 15 (handbrake applied). Display = battery voltage
4. connect the measuring device to terminal 23 and terminal 16 (close soft top button). Press close button. Display = battery voltage
5. connect the measuring device to terminals 23 and 17 (open soft top button). Press the open button. Display = battery voltage
6. convertible top locked . Connect measuring device to terminal 23 and terminal 14 (microswitch wind frame). Display = battery voltage
7. convertible top locked . Connect the measuring device to terminals 23 and 29 (microswitch B-pillar). Display = battery voltage
8. top unlocked. Connect the measuring device to terminals 23 and 13 (microswitch closed, soft top compartment lid VDKD open). Display = battery voltage
9. convertible top unlocked . Connect the measuring device to terminal 23 and terminal 19 (microswitch wind frame). Display = battery voltage
Connect control relay to relay carrier. Open the soft top compartment lid and disconnect the electrical plug connection on the drive motor-top drive.
10. connect the positive of measuring device to terminal 1 (black cable) and the negative of measuring device to terminal 4 (green cable). Kl. 2 and Kl.
11. connect the positive of measuring device to terminal 4 (green cable) and the negative of measuring device to terminal 1 (black cable). Bridge terminals 2 and 3 with an auxiliary cable. Switch on the ignition and press the "Close" button. Display = battery voltage

Btw, afaik from 2000 onwards there are only two microswitches, one in the lock and the other in the planetary gearbox. No microswitch on the bracket of the motor.


The above, along with the diagram 78f350 gave you, will help you determine the health of the circuits and hopefully rule out either a mouse chewed out some wires or a bad relay.

For example, if you get no voltage when you test the handbrake circuit (test #3), but you have a handbrake light on the dash then you know the switch is fine, but there's a break in the wire before the relay.

I have to admit, test #10 has me puzzled as I don't know what they mean by "KI. 2 and KI."

But the other tests seem straightforward.

OOPS. Sorry, 78F450. I just saw that you posted a link to the same diagnostic procedure.

I'm shelving the issue with the insubordinate top mechanism for a while, because my cam timing kit arrived today. It's much larger and heavier than the IMS kits. I'm very pleased with the quality of the Chinese parts. Not sure what those long tools are used for, but I don't think I'll be using them during this procedure. Perhaps someone can shed some light on their function. Tomorrow I'm going to press this kit into service. Putting the top in service mode can wait until the new pads are installed and the cams are timed. Lexi, my Jack Russell Terrier, is eyeballing the kit with skepticism in the photo, but I think it's well worth $97.

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Awww Lexi!

Never underestimate a dog's intuition!

The long white nylon tool is used to insert the pistons circlip during assembly

I'll take your word for it. It's unlikely I'll ever have to try it out. As for the other tool, the black tube is metal.

The long white nylon tool is used to align the connecting rods with the piston pin openings in the pistons before the black metal tool is used to insert the piston pin retaining clips.

Thanks, JFP. They probably won't get any use unless I loan the kit. Here's another question for you: I removed the three chain tensioners during the IMS installation and I haven't put them back. I haven't seen it explicitly stated, but I figured I should hold off reinstalling them until after the new cam chain pads are in place, during the timing procedure. Correct?.

Leave them out until everything is back together and you are read to do cam allocation.