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http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02/AOS1743390727.jpg https://www.amazon.com/Bapmic-99610702304-Separator-Crankcase-1997-2002/dp/B01MZAEBC6/ |
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https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/99610702304.htm?pn=996-107-023-04-M100&bc=c&SVSVSI=0784 |
What's more difficult to replace than the AOS with the engine in is the coolant tank. That's a real PITA to do and 100 times easier with the engine out. Just a suggestion, if you haven't already addressed it.
Pelican has that, too. Yeah, it's pricey, but yours is 25 years old, unless it has been changed already. Is it white or yellow? If it's yellow, recommend changing it. If you could only do one, I'd do the tank because in comparison, the AOS is much easier to do with the engine in, plus the AOS won't leave you stranded if it goes bad. |
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Sunset Porsche out in you neck of the woods has them for $156. |
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https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/98710792600.htm?pn=987-107-926-00-OEM&bc=c&SVSVSI= If I hadn't been in a rush I would have noticed the form factor was very different. |
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https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/99610614708.htm?pn=996-106-147-08-M100&bc=c&SVSVSI= |
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https://www.******porscheparts.com/oem-parts/porsche-air-tube-99611311755 (Pelican won't permit links to competitors' products, so replace asterisks with "sunset.") |
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AOS is part # 996-107-023-04 I would also order one of these as it makes installing the lower hose clamp much easier - 999-512-630-00
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So, AOS and coolant tank. Anything else in the "must replace" category?
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The new rear main seal has been installed. Getting the old seal out required some determined reefing on the sheetrock screws, but it finally popped out. The tool used to seat the new seal worked like a charm. All in all, it was an easy job, as others who've done it can attest.
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I intended to include these photos in the previous message, but I clicked "Submit" by mistake and editing doesn't allow uploading photos, even under "Go Advanced." Mutter, mutter... And I thought I had taken a shot with the seal completely out, but I thought wrong. Not much to see, just blackness surrounding the crankshaft.
As I said, this was an easy procedure. Wish they all were that easy. Wish replacing the cam chain wear pads would be that easy. That's the next project on the schedule. Actually, it might not be too bad, as long as I: (1) fully understand the procedure, (2) take it slow and careful — there's no hurry, (3) be meticulous, and (4) take lots of photos. (Photos kinda come in handy when putting things back together, I've found.) Removal of old RMS: http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1743555859.jpg New RMS, ready to be seated: http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1743555884.jpg Tool in place: http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1743555916.jpg New RMS, seated: http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1743555939.jpg Supposedly, the tool actually seats the new seal in a slightly different place, to avoid wear from the old seal. Not surprisingly, I couldn't detect the difference. |
You answered my question before I had a chance to ask. So it does seat in a slightly different depth! Very interesting, as the two I have had apart showed a light line where the seal rides, but not deep enough to feel it. Tough stuff!
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See the rubber hose connected to the fuel rail? Note the crimp next to its metal sleeve. The hose got munched when they packed the engine for shipping. Haven't priced a replacement yet. I'm afraid to.
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1743653622.jpg |
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What's that hose for? Can't you pull one off your other engine? |
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As suggested by piper... use the old one or: - has the kink really damaged the line? - if so a shop that deals in hydraulic equipment may be able to fix it for less than the Porsche part. |
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