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Old 02-18-2024, 06:52 AM   #1
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Join Date: Dec 2023
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Annoying rattle/creaking behind driver side door

Hello all, I wonder if anyone can provide some insight or guidance. My 2000 Boxster has a rattle / creaking in between the driver side door and the air intake. It occurs at any speed over bumps etc. I imagine this would have something to do with the convertible top mechanics? I should note I don't know the condition of my bushings, it's possible they are on their way out, would that be a factor in creating this noise?

On another note, the top while in good shape has a scratched and hazy plastic window. Would replacing the top perhaps also cure this rattle when the new top would be installed?

Any thoughts welcome and thanks in advance!

Last edited by fastricky; 02-18-2024 at 08:39 AM.
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Old 02-18-2024, 09:48 AM   #2
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Hi fastricky,
No, your annoying rattle would not likely be resolved in the process of replacing the convertible top cover.
Replacing the fabric top covering is, in my opinion, best done with the top frame left on the car with its mechanical drive parts left in place, as the top frame must be moved back and forth to different points in its travel as you work on different parts of the top. I have done three top replacements on 986ís and have never needed to have the frame off the car.
I have also done several gearbox overhauls, which require removal of the large Ďbanana armsí and the lightweight foam-plastic water drains to access them. If a gearbox were loose on one or more of the three mounting points, you might hear it rattle. Also, if the top frame itself was loose on its three mounting bolts, that might cause a rattle seeming to arise near the driverís left shoulder, as you describe. An easy fix: the bolt heads arenít difficult to feel, though they are difficult to see.
Other causes of rattling might include loose water drain plastic located underneath the front of the left rear plastic fender liner, the large aluminum diagonal brace ( attaches to chassis in front of the rear wheel), the front bushing of the long aluminum trailing arm of the rear suspension, or a loose rear undercar spray shield.
I suggest you check the tightness of the top frame retaining bolts first ( easiest to access), before going to the trouble of lifting the rear end of the car on stands and removing the left rear wheel. Make sure you chock the front tires both side before you lift the rear, as the parking brakes act only on the rear wheels ( but you already knew to do that.).
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Old 03-06-2024, 09:03 PM   #3
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when the rear trailing arms spherical bushings go out you get and ugly noise from that same area, I replace them a little while ago with the urethane versions and it made a huge difference

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