0w50?

[ike84]

I have no objective reason to say this, but I like running 50wt oil in this car. I tend to run her hard and fast - yes I'm sure there's a joke in there - and rarely have rpms under 4k. When I started seeing bits of tensioner pads in my last oil change, I switched from mobil1 0w40 to Castrol 20w50. I swear the motor sounds and feels happier (yes I know it's a dumb thing to say). I'll be curious to see if there's more or less debris in the filter this time.

Anyway, here's the kicker - I'm moving to Minnesota. Yes, the state that in a single year has recorded temps over 100f in the summer and below -50f in the winter.

So, I've got to switch all my oils over to 0w (Duramax and vortec included). I see that mobil1 makes a full syn 0w50 racing oil. The stuff looks fantastic, with stupid high levels of zddp (enough to clog cats lol) and all the benefits of high weight with excellent cold flow. Plus, mobil1 actual recommends it for flat tappet engines.

Does anyone have personal experience with this oil in an m96? The only drawback I see would be the issue with cats, but I run aftermarket high flow cats that could be easily (and somewhat inexpensively) swapped out of it becomes a real problem.


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[paulofto]

I’m curious where in Minnesota are you moving and do you plan on driving your Boxster in the winter. I’m just over an hour north of the border outside Winnipeg and our winters are even more severe than most of Minnesota and our summers get almost as hot. I don’t drive mine in the winter only from April to October and have only ever used Mobil 1 0W40.

I’m also curious about peoples experience with heavier weight oils in the M96 since some people with much older air cooled 911s in the PCA chapter here have indicated they have moved to Porsche brand ‘Classic’ 50 weight oil but I don’t know anyone with an water cooled engine having done it.

[ike84]

Originally Posted by paulofto

I’m curious where in Minnesota are you moving and do you plan on driving your Boxster in the winter. I’m just over an hour north of the border outside Winnipeg and our winters are even more severe than most of Minnesota and our summers get almost as hot. I don’t drive mine in the winter only from April to October and have only ever used Mobil 1 0W40.

I’m also curious about peoples experience with heavier weight oils in the M96 since some people with much older air cooled 911s in the PCA chapter here have indicated they have moved to Porsche brand ‘Classic’ 50 weight oil but I don’t know anyone with an water cooled engine having done it.

Marshall - it's about halfway between Sioux falls and Rochester

I don't plan on much winter driving because the community uses calcium chloride road salt in the winters. Yuck. However, having gone this last winter not being able to even move my car having the 20w was a bit annoying. I have been known to drop the top in subfreezing weather though so long as the sun is shining

I have read a lot of members, especially racers, who speak highly of running 50 weight oil in our cars. It makes sense to me for a lot of reasons andy experience has been positive so far.

Btw, do you have any experience building fences? There aren't many backyard fences in Marshall, and when I spoke to the main fence guy in the area he told me he only buries his posts 2-3ft deep and only concretes in corner posts and gate posts! We can get away with that **************** in KY but my jaw dropped when I saw that the frost line in this area is 70+"! I figured this was why no one builds fences - they all fall down lol.

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[paulofto]

Re fence posts. 2 to 3 feet certainly isn’t deep enough for around here. Within a couple of years frost heave will have the posts pointing everywhere but up twisting the fence. A minimum of four feet is needed here and usually deeper. Many people who don’t want to dig that deep uses 5 foot screw post type anchors and bolt the post to that. If there is some movement the posts can be adjusted in the anchor.

Back in 2014 when we had the coldest winter on record here I was having a sunroom added to our house in the spring and the contractor had planned on breaking ground in early May. He couldn’t do it till late June. The ground was frozen 7 feet down and he couldn’t get the massive screw piles to get down to the minimum necessary depth of 12 feet. The whole project was delayed for 2 months simply because he couldn’t break ground. Such is life in The Great White North.

Okay, back to oil discussions.

[ike84]

Originally Posted by paulofto

Re fence posts. 2 to 3 feet certainly isn’t deep enough for around here. Within a couple of years frost heave will have the posts pointing everywhere but up twisting the fence. A minimum of four feet is needed here and usually deeper. Many people who don’t want to dig that deep uses 5 foot screw post type anchors and bolt the post to that. If there is some movement the posts can be adjusted in the anchor.



Back in 2014 when we had the coldest winter on record here I was having a sunroom added to our house in the spring and the contractor had planned on breaking ground in early May. He couldn’t do it till late June. The ground was frozen 7 feet down and he couldn’t get the massive screw piles to get down to the minimum necessary depth of 12 feet. The whole project was delayed for 2 months simply because he couldn’t break ground. Such is life in The Great White North.



Okay, back to oil discussions.

Thanks for that info, it confirms exactly what I was thinking - 6 ft tall fence needs 12-13 ft long posts! Anyway, yes, back to oil...

When I change my oil soon I will post about filter debris. I'm hoping that there will be none, giving a bit of objective support to my thinking about 50 weight.

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