Simple solution for oil filter removal

[trevorhp]

Just fix 2 medium jubilee type clips (the ones with a flat worm drive) around the filter housing right at the top near the aluminium casting and tighten quite tightly.
Tap one of the screw heads with a hammer sharply to loosen the over tightened housing slightly, then spin it off with your hand.

[2ata]

LN Engineering spin on filter adapter

[Stl-986]

Or just use the correct tool instead of a hammer

[JFP in PA]

Let's see: Tighten a steel band clamp around a brittle plastic housing full of oil, then hit it with a hammer. I'd suggest if you intend to go this route, have lots of oil spill cleanup supplies on hand, as well as a replacement canister. Or as suggested, just get the right tool in the first place...........

[elgyqc]

Originally Posted by trevorhp

Just fix 2 medium jubilee type clips (the ones with a flat worm drive) around the filter housing right at the top near the aluminium casting and tighten quite tightly.
Tap one of the screw heads with a hammer sharply to loosen the over tightened housing slightly, then spin it off with your hand.
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I like original and inexpensive solutions... this could work. I have the proper tool but it cost over $30. For removing the filter once a year your idea is cost effective. I think there is a difference between tapping with hammer to loosen and hammering...

[Newsguy]

Why are we overthinking this? I just use one of those cheap stamped-steel oil filter tools with no problem.

[old911doc]

I recently acquired a 2001 Boxster S which still had the plastic oil filter can. It was on so tight that my Hazet oil filter wrench would ‘cam over’ at approximately 175 foot-pounds of torque. The cast-aluminum cap type wrench sold as ‘Craftsman’ at Lowe’s saved the day, and I was able to get the plastic cup off the engine, but I couldn’t get the tool off the cup.
My suggestion: under NO circumstance should you continue use of the plastic cup, and risk having either a permanently-installed oil filter, or worse, having the cup break off at its threads. Good luck removing the fragments. The aluminum spin-on adapter and filer should be fitted at the time the car is acquired.

Notice the M96 engine blocks for sale on eBay: they all still have the black filter cup in place. The sellers couldn’t get them off!

[Stl-986]

actually it's most likely not cause they couldnt get it off, it's cause they dont even bother. They will drain the oil but leave filters on so oil doesn't come out holes when getting moved around or shipped. Not to mention then they have to dispose of them.

[Frodo]

Originally Posted by old911doc

I recently acquired a 2001 Boxster S which still had the plastic oil filter can. It was on so tight that my Hazet oil filter wrench would ‘cam over’ at approximately 175 foot-pounds of torque. The cast-aluminum cap type wrench sold as ‘Craftsman’ at Lowe’s saved the day, and I was able to get the plastic cup off the engine, but I couldn’t get the tool off the cup.
My suggestion: under NO circumstance should you continue use of the plastic cup, and risk having either a permanently-installed oil filter, or worse, having the cup break off at its threads. Good luck removing the fragments. The aluminum spin-on adapter and filer should be fitted at the time the car is acquired.

Oh My Gosh! What is it with these dealerships and shops whose employees crank on the oil filters with lug nut-level (or higher) torques! Hand tightening, it works. In over 80k worth of oil changes (@ every 3-4k miles) I have, after hand tightening, had one single solitary occasion where I got the slightest seepage and had to tighten it a smidgen more. The oil loss was infinitesimal—didn't have to top it off a drop.

And yeah, get the spin-on oil filter adapter. A definite upgrade.

[rexcramer]

My guess is most people never use their torque wrench (set at 19lbs I believe) to re-install the plastic oil housing. Most of them are/have been ridiculously over-tightened.