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Old 11-06-2021, 06:02 AM   #1
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Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Woodland Wa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boxstard View Post
I know continuity and resistance are two different things, but effectively you are checking both at the same time when you are checking coils with a multimeter for breakage, short or insulation leakage.

I agree that you can waste time doing all those tests to pin point the coil issue when you can just buy new ones and forget about it, ‘if you have any doubt’…. my point is how to confirm that doubt by reasonable test so that you don’t end up just replacing perfectly good coils with zero appreciable improvement. They are not expensive, it just bothers me wasting good parts, just because I can replace them.
I have never found a coil to be at fault where I could not detect the fault.
I have always been able to see physical damage, high Ohm's resistance, weak yellow spark. Or no spark.
That is over a period of 50+ years of playing with cars.
I have had very few coils fail.
Although in my old VW bug, heat from the engine was hard on them.

Last edited by blue62; 11-06-2021 at 06:10 AM.
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Old 11-06-2021, 07:52 AM   #2
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Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: SE Michigan
Posts: 496
Quote:
Originally Posted by blue62 View Post
I have never found a coil to be at fault where I could not detect the fault.
I have always been able to see physical damage, high Ohm's resistance, weak yellow spark. Or no spark.
That is over a period of 50+ years of playing with cars.
I have had very few coils fail.
Although in my old VW bug, heat from the engine was hard on them.
My takeaway from this threat is no need to change coils as PM, as they can last long time and you will likely notice symptoms. It is my habit to change spark plugs routinely at much shorter interval as factory suggests, so I can read them to see health of combustion and detect weak spark, if I don’t feel it from driving,

My first car was a 73 VW bug and probably the very first thing I did for ‘performance’ upgrade was Bosch blue coil….. I guess I’m spoiled now, no need to adjust valve gap every 3K miles, adjust distributor point gap, set the timing with strobe light, fiddle with carburetors, etc….
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1997 Boxster arctic silver/ red, XNE riveted mahogany/ leather steering wheel & 917-style wood shift knob, Ben’s short shifter, PSE, 996 TB, UDP, stereo/ center console delete, hardtop and speedster humps, daily driver rain or shine or snow!

Last edited by Boxstard; 11-07-2021 at 01:50 AM.
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