Feels like a misfire under load 🤷****♂️

[blue62]

Colacharlie

The only specs. I could find in my book are for 1997-2001 models so you may want to do a search of the forum to see if you can find other specs.
Or post another thread and see if anyone knows.

Here are the specs. I found
engine off key on. 3.8 plus or minus 0.2 bar
engine idling 3.3 plus or minus 0.2 bar

[blue62]

Colacharlie

One more thing sorry.

When you found the P1128 code was your check engine light on?
Erase the code if you have not and lets see if and when it comes back.

[colacharlie]

Originally Posted by blue62

Colacharlie

One more thing sorry.

When you found the P1128 code was your check engine light on?
Erase the code if you have not and lets see if and when it comes back.

I’ll do the checks that you say tomorrow, and thank you for the details on psi’s. Oh, and is this exhaust check you’ve explained to be performed with the vacuum gauge set up as before?

I’m beginning to think that the engine light on the dash is not working, as it did not come on with the fault that is showing on the computer. I’ll also check tomorrow that it’s working when I first turn the key slightly ��

… I was watching this (thanks STL) but I can’t find a fuel pressure regulator as it’s shown in the video

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=hddx5Ux1v4Y

Unfortunately it doesn’t say the year of his car and I wonder if mine actually does have one or not?

[blue62]

It would be best to just put the vacuum gauge directly into the intake vacuum port and plug the check valve off.
So NO TEE fitting just what ever you need to hook the gauge directly to the intake. If you need a length of hose between the gauge and the intake so you can sit in the car and work the throttle and watch the RPM thats fine.

With that check valve (which connects to the EVAP system) connected and involved in the test there is the possibility that the EVAP system could run it's test while your trying to do the exhaust restriction test.

What happens is that the DME/ECU sends a signal that puts the entire EVAP system under vacuum then checks for leaks over a period of time.
So it draws on vacuum from the intake. If that happens at the same time your holding RPM at 2000 and watching the needle the needle is going to slowly drop just like an exhaust restriction.
So you could get conflicting results.
hope that makes sense.

You may throw EVAP codes or other codes because the EVAP vacuum line it is unplugged during the test.
If you do just clear them after you done testing.

[blue62]

Originally Posted by colacharlie

I’ll do the checks that you say tomorrow, and thank you for the details on psi’s. Oh, and is this exhaust check you’ve explained to be performed with the vacuum gauge set up as before?

I’m beginning to think that the engine light on the dash is not working, as it did not come on with the fault that is showing on the computer. I’ll also check tomorrow that it’s working when I first turn the key slightly ��

… I was watching this (thanks STL) but I can’t find a fuel pressure regulator as it’s shown in the video

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=hddx5Ux1v4Y

Unfortunately it doesn’t say the year of his car and I wonder if mine actually does have one or not?

The car in the video has it's fuel filter outside the fuel tank on the underside of the car.
I believe your fuel filter is inside the fuel tank. So the fuel systems are a little different. I think the change started with 2002 models.
So you probably have what they call a closed fuel system. My book says the closed system can not be volume tested the way the car in the video is tested.
says you need special equipment.

But you can pressure test at the fuel rail.