Help for a pathetic newbie - 986 Forum - The Community for Porsche Boxster & Cayman Owners

rkmore · 07-01-2021, 04:11 AM

Sorry in advance for this question but I have been unable to figure out the answer from searches I have done.

I replaced the battery in a 1998 986 that I recently bought (it came without the manual). After the replacement I have a crank but no start condition.

From what I have read there seems to be some sort of security procedure.

When I turn the key to "on" I see the countdown timer and I wait until it times out then try to start but still no luck. I have read many different snippets about pressing the key fob while doing this etc. but I cant find the complete procedure documented online and I can't find anywhere to download the manual.

Can anyone point me to the exact complete procedure I need to follow?

Thank you.

Rob175 · 07-01-2021, 05:59 AM

I'm not much help but...I installed a new battery a few years ago in my 98' Boxster with no issues at all. IF it were a "security issue" I don't think your car would even crank. The fact that it appears to be trying to start says to me it's something else. First I would check the battery, the connections and the ground.....after that I'm not much of an expert. But IF it's cranking strong and won't start it could be fuel supply (ie: fuel pump) or no spark (ie: spark plugs).

It could be just a coincidence after a battery change but I doubt that. I know the radio typically has a security code that sometimes needs to be input for the radio to play after a battery change but other than that I'm not sure.

Curious as to it being able to crank but not fire off.

Rob175 · 07-01-2021, 06:05 AM

double post

Stl-986 · 07-01-2021, 06:50 AM

replaced many batteries in these. If the car started before replacing it would start after, there isn't a code or process.

for a car that doesn't start let's start at the beginning.

why did you replace the battery?
Did you connect the battery correctly? Positive to positive, negative to negative?
did you accidently reverse the above at any time?
did you tighten down the terminals on the battery?
do the interior lights come on when opening the door?
can you lock/unlock the doors with the remote or when using the key in the lock?
manual or auto?
does it crank when trying to start?

Last (for both above posters) It helps everyone to put your car info in your signature

mikefocke · 07-01-2021, 04:29 PM

And since some batteries have + and - posts in a different orientation, look at the old and new battery and check.

Also see if the tach needle moves at all. Check that the battery cables are tight against the battery posts. And even trace the grounding cable and see if it is likewise secured.

Cunningr · 07-02-2021, 06:51 AM

This maybe a silly question, did you have it running before you replaced the battery? You said you just bought it, some people buy and have the cars delivered so just to make sure when the no crank issue started.

The count down time is for the oil level test, you will notice once running the time to complete changes sometimes.

bcrdukes · 07-02-2021, 07:36 AM

Agreed with the posts above - If this were security related (immobilizer) the car wouldn't even crank to begin with. The factory owners manual won't provide much information on what you are describing. You can try all kinds of tricks like putting your index finger on your nose while cracking the car or rubbing your belly at the same time, but what you've read online doesn't sound right.

If it were the wrong key and its radio frequency not synchronized to the DME/ECU and the immobilizer, you wouldn't have been able to crank the vehicle whatsoever. By virtue of at least you acknowledging the engine is cranking but not starting indicates the key is correct and is matched with what is written to the DME/ECU.

rkmore · 07-02-2021, 11:27 AM

Thanks for all the feedback. I really appreciate it.

The car has been running fine.

I took the battery out to replace the fuel pump (which was a bit of a pain).

The old one had a bearing going bad, it would run then squeel occasionally.

The new pump is running and I jumpered around the relay ran it into a graduated cylinder and the volume seems good.

I don't have a pressure tester but it is about the only thing it can be at this point.

Before you say it, not it was not an OEM pump, it was a Carter. Should have know better.

Unless there is some sort of pump priming procedure I don't know about or something then it is just me being penny wise and pount foolish :-(

Thanks again

1998 Boxster, manual

blue62 · 07-02-2021, 12:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rkmore

Thanks for all the feedback. I really appreciate it.

The car has been running fine.

I took the battery out to replace the fuel pump (which was a bit of a pain).

The old one had a bearing going bad, it would run then squeel occasionally.

The new pump is running and I jumpered around the relay ran it into a graduated cylinder and the volume seems good.

I don't have a pressure tester but it is about the only thing it can be at this point.

Before you say it, not it was not an OEM pump, it was a Carter. Should have know better.

Unless there is some sort of pump priming procedure I don't know about or something then it is just me being penny wise and pount foolish :-(

Thanks again

1998 Boxster, manual

You say you jumperd around the fuel pimp relay to test volume flow.
Is the relay working or is it possible that the relay is bad.

There is a possibility that you have air in the fuel line.
Perhaps jumpering the fuel pump while pushing the presta valve on the injector fuel rail will bleed the air out.
If that is the issue.

When you crank it over does it even fire??? sputter??

The first thing to do is Spray some starter fluid into the intake while cranking to see if it fires.
Then you will know for sure if it is a fuel issue.
Don't get carried away with the starter fluid.

If it does not fire on the starting fluid then you need to test for spark at the plugs.

Stl-986 · 07-02-2021, 12:41 PM

really dumb question, but....How much gas is in the car?

I haven't had to replace a fuel pump yet, but I remember there being some pickup lines there. Sure you didn't knock any of them off?

Sounds like you have a fuel issue. I would do as Blue suggested. Turn the ignition to the on position, that will start the fuel pump. At the engine, fuel rail, take a small screwdriver and press the schrader valve to see if you get fuel to come out. If not then you know the issue is with the pump or related.

Other thing you can do is put the old pump back in and see if it starts. If so, again, problem with new pump.

Also, I would put things back in place with the relay.

blue62 · 07-02-2021, 12:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stl-986

really dumb question, but....How much gas is in the car?

I haven't had to replace a fuel pump yet, but I remember there being some pickup lines there. Sure you didn't knock any of them off?

Sounds like you have a fuel issue. I would do as Blue suggested. Turn the ignition to the on position, that will start the fuel pump. At the engine, fuel rail, take a small screwdriver and press the schrader valve to see if you get fuel to come out. If not then you know the issue is with the pump or related.

Other thing you can do is put the old pump back in and see if it starts. If so, again, problem with new pump.

Also, I would put things back in place with the relay.

Damn that is a Schrader valve not a presta valve.
I am not positive if pressing the valve will work or not but one would think so.
He can check for a fuel issue by using starter fluid into the intake.
Just to see if it will fire. If it fires on the starting fluid that says it all

If not fire Then check spark before starting to pull parts off.

rkmore · 07-02-2021, 01:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blue62

You say you jumperd around the fuel pimp relay to test volume flow.
Is the relay working or is it possible that the relay is bad.

There is a possibility that you have air in the fuel line.
Perhaps jumpering the fuel pump while pushing the presta valve on the injector fuel rail will bleed the air out.
If that is the issue.

When you crank it over does it even fire??? sputter??

The first thing to do is Spray some starter fluid into the intake while cranking to see if it fires.
Then you will know for sure if it is a fuel issue.
Don't get carried away with the starter fluid.

If it does not fire on the starting fluid then you need to test for spark at the plugs.

Thanks for the ideas.

The relay is working. I hooked a very thin wire to the switched side of the relay and to a meter and it shows 12v when I try to start (but not rest of the time so I am sure it is the correct pin)

Not even a single cough when cranking.

I am hesitant to take the cap off the presta valve since I have read that you can't re-use an old cap once you take it off and I don't have another cap.

Where would be the best place to squirt a little starter fluid? Pull out the air cleaner tray maybe?

Thanks again for all the help. This is a very good forum!

old911doc · 07-02-2021, 02:01 PM

The simplest explanation is that there is air in the fuel line. It got in there when the fuel pump was changed. The Schrader ( not Presta, like on bicycles) valve on the fuel rail is there for the purpose of purging air from the system, and to attach a fuel pressure gauge ( many of which have bleeder valves like tire pressure gauges). The cap is the same thread as a tire valve cap, 4/$1.
Press the Shrader valve pin down while an assistant turns the ignition key from off to on; several repetitions may be needed. When fuel sprays out, release the valve. The engine should start.
Depending on whether the car is on level ground, you may not get all the air out at first try.
If the fuel system is delivering fuel under pressure, there is some other cause. Ignition failure would be next. An easy way to test would be to remove one coil from one plug ( two small bolts, 5mm Allen wrench) and stick another spark plug in it and hold it against the engine to ground it while your assistant turns the ignition key to Start. You should see the plug spark; if not, consider crank position sensor failure.

blue62 · 07-02-2021, 02:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rkmore

Thanks for the ideas.

The relay is working. I hooked a very thin wire to the switched side of the relay and to a meter and it shows 12v when I try to start (but not rest of the time so I am sure it is the correct pin)

Not even a single cough when cranking.

I am hesitant to take the cap off the presta valve since I have read that you can't re-use an old cap once you take it off and I don't have another cap.

Where would be the best place to squirt a little starter fluid? Pull out the air cleaner tray maybe?

Thanks again for all the help. This is a very good forum!

Pulling the intake tube from the air filter box off of the throttle body would probably be best.
Your going to have to open the butterfly to get the starting fluid down to the intake valves.

Taking the cap off of the Schader valve will not hurt anything tell you get another cap.

rkmore · 07-02-2021, 04:14 PM

There is a split in the plastic nipple on the output at the top if the pump.

Will pump some fuel if there is no pressure required so it passed my flow test but as soon as even a little pressure required just squirts back into tank.

Finally resorted to powering the pump directly with my power-probe while I looked into the tank with a flashlight.

What a pain in the rump.

Thanks for all the help! Greatly appreciated.