After repairing my car the ABS and brake pad sensor lights are on, don't know why.
 

I had a mishap with my car and it's all fixed, but now the ABS and pad wear dash lights are on. Looking for any suggestions on how to remedy it.
Before the incident the car had all new pads, rotors, and sensors and the brake system flushed. Everything was perfect.
I replaced the left rear hub carrier, axle and bunch of suspension parts. The speed sensor cable was fine, but the brake pad wear sensor wires were ripped out of the plug. I put in a new sensor. Also, the hub that I got had a little different looking wheel speed sensor and had a different kind of plug. Mine is a 2001 S 6 speed and the hub was from a 2002 S speed. I used my old speed sensor since it was fine and undamaged.

The ABS fuse is fine, just don't know what would cause both lights to now come on.
I've driven about 20 miles and in the last two days and lights still on.

It's strange that the pad sensor is new so why is the wear light on.

you need to read & post the codes for abs. You can do this with a durametric but a standard obd2 reader wont be able to.

Also, the brake sensor wont light up the abs light. it will only light up the brake pad light.

I am going to take a guess but either the hub is the wrong one, wrong sensor, bad sensor or the spacing is wrong. That of course assumes that the wheel that is causing the light is the one you worked on and not a different one.

I can't help you with the warning light issues. but glad to hear that you have that black beauty back on the road!

Thanks, I'll have to get one of those readers. I have a cheap iCarsoft reader and it just says "Fault in communication with vehicle ECU".
The hub has the same part number on it as mine so the hub is the same. The lights I would think have to be from the left rear since that's the only thing I touched.

Thank you, it felt great getting it on the road again after a month and a half sitting on jacks.

Well, your car was in a wreck. Assuming isn't something I would do.

Don’t know if this makes a difference, the first link is for the ABS speed sensor I had originally, and the 2nd link is the one that came with the used hub carrier that had a different plug and the sensor looked different.
Pelican says the the 2nd one can't guarantee it fits for my car. The only thing that tore was the brake pad sensor and replaced it with a new one. And the ABS speed sensor wasn’t damaged so I had to use mine since the one from the hub tue connector didn’t fit.
The hub carrier was the same part number, so not sure why the ABS and pad wear sensor are lit. Have to buy a durametric soon can get the codes.

https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/99660640600.htm?pn=996-606-406-00-M14&SVSVSI=1048&fs=0

https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/99660640702.htm?pn=996-606-407-02-M14&SVSVSI=1048&fs=0

Also while testing the brakes, the left front is locking up, ABS is working on all the other tires. The left tire went up the curb as well but there was no damage that I could see except for the rim needed to be repaired and had to replace the tire. When I had it on the lift earlier, I looked at all 4 wheels and the ABS speed sensor and pad wear sensor wires and plugs all looked ok.
Still trying to figure it out.
Does the Duramatic tell you which wheel has an ABS fault? Still need to get one of them.

FYI: a Durametric is a specially made communication cable that has to be used with a Windows based laptop . You buy the cable , download the software to your computer and you are good to go . There are two versions available , a DIY version and a pro version . The DIY can read three different cars/VIN numbers . The pro version is unlimited .

Thank you, I’ve been looking at them. I think I’m ok with the Enthusiast one. I think since the left front is skidding when testing, I think that's the wheel that’s causing the light. I took the wheel off and unplugged/cleaned both cables and everything looks fine. Hopefully the durametric can tell me what needs to be fixed. And for the pad wear sensor, all 4 wheels have new brake pads and sensors and all installed correctly.

Jasper, out of curiosity did you replaced the wheel bearing on the new hub..?

The first time I replaced my rear wheel bearings, I installed them backwards (..!) and the magnetic strip was at the wrong side of the hub and as soon as I took the car for a test drive, the ABS failure light was On.. :rolleyes:

The wheel bearing on the used hub was installed correctly.

I talked to Pelican and was thinking of buying the Duramatic and they said probably wouldn't do anything in this case.

You have 2 lights on the dash. Durametric will tell you why. Or you can spend time trying to figure it out yourself.

Personally I just clip the pad sensors and tie them together. I dont need a light to tell me when the pads are low, it's pretty obvious if you drive the car and listen.

Now you are saying that 1 wheel is skidding? What do you mean by that?

Thank You, I had called Pelican and was maybe going to order the Durametic and the guy said it's just going to tell me something is wrong, but that's it. He said I'd have to take it to the dealer to get full detail of why the light is on.
And all the pads were only a month old.

And testing the ABS on the road I slammed on the brakes and ABS worked on all the wheels except the front left locked up and skidded. Did that about 4 times with the same result.

Dont call Pelican. Just order directly from Durametric.

Still looking at getting a Durametric.
In the meantime, I moved the ABS sensor to the left rear. Now both front wheels lockup when testing the brakes. The car still stops fine, just skids when slamming on the brake pedal.
Don't know why switching the sensor from the front to the rear would now make both wheels skid, instead of just the left front.

I rented a Durametric and should be here beginning of next week.
They also said for the ABS, it's just going to tell you the fault code, but not going to tell you what wheel or why. I can clear the code, but that doesn't help as it will just come back on and I'm hoping to resolve why it's on.
Also, the list doesn't say anything about the pad wear sensor, I have no idea why that light is on as all 4 sensors are new and installed correctly.

Someone suggested disconnecting the battery, did that as well with no luck.

Honestly just ignore the brake pad light. it has nothing to do with the issue. It is on cause it sees a brake in a wire to any of the pad sensors. It could be at the pad or anywhere along the path.

With that said, given that you have both and the pad sensors are new you very well could have a break in the wire/connector. Been 4 years since I dealt with similar issue and I dont have a car on a lift right now to get a picture, but the 2 sensors go into a single harness at each wheel. These can get chaffed/cut/rubbed. Very common cause porsche makes a repair kit for it. When I ran into this my durametric did say which wheel sensor it wasn't reading.

Again, I dont care about brake pad sensor on my cars. I dont even use them. I just cut the end off, connect the 2 wires and it thinks the sensor is there. All it is is a contact sensor so it doesn't really matter.

I would get it in the air, go to each wheel, pull the wheel sensor and ohm it out. FSM should have the specs or it's somewhere on the interwebs.

Thank You,
I did unbolt all 4 of the connectors from the hub and unplugged both sensors and cleaned and blew air into the plugs and connectors. All of them looked totally fine. The pad sensor pulled the wires from the left rear plug when the hub carrier broke, but I replaced it with the same part number. And that's great that the Duramatic told you which one wasn't reading. Hopefully when my loaner arrives it will tell me that so it will narrow it down to which wheel.

I'll search for the connector rebuild kit and also look for what the speed sensor resistance is supposed to be.

if I remember right these are each keyed differently so double check me, but make sure you aren't putting the pad sensor in the abs plug & vise versa

Ya, I made sure everything is plugged in correctly, ABS outboard and pad wear inboard.
Only corner I could think it would be is the left rear carrier that broke, found the left rear rebuild kit 986-612-953-01
And a possibly ohm reading of 1.6-1.8. Hopefully this will get me closer to seeing what the issue is.
Thank You

Also found a diagnosis/troubleshooting PDF.
http://www.steinbock.cl/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/8-Manual-Diagn%C3%B3stico-y-Soluci%C3%B3n-Frenos-ABS-PORSCHE-Boxter.pdf

Check all the sensors with a ohm meter and they’re all working fine. I looked closer at the plug where the hub carrier broke and the wire just beyond the harness connector looks a little deformed and not perfectly round like the rest of the harness. Wondering if the wires got pinched.

The Durametric Pro rental arrived and here's what the ABS 5.7 fault code said:
4216 Rear left spped sensor - signal implausible
4216 Rear left speed sensor - op. circ/GND/+ short

Thinking maybe buy the harness repair kit for $90 and switching it out.
Can't find a how to video online. I don't know if there's a junction box or something in the trunk that the harness goes to.

Looks like it's part of the trunk harness. Do you need a trace of what connector and pin that goes to?
https://live.staticflickr.com/647/31...4bb9e297_c.jpg

I could probably de-pin those wires from the connector on one of my scrap harnesses and send it to AZ if that's what you want.

Thank you so much for the diagram, only have my phone for now but it looks like the left rear after the fender well grommet there’s a plug. I’m thinking the repair harness would go up to that plug.
A weird thing that happened is in the Durametric under ABS 5.7 activations, there’s a ABS warning light. When I click start the spoiler goes up. Don’t know why that’s happening.
Then with the car running and go into the ABS fault code or now shows 3 codes.
4241 Control module fault and replace complete hydraulic unit.
4215 same as when car not running.
4607 Control module fault.
I took it for a quick spin and now those fault codes are gone when the car is running.
When. Testing the ABS, both front tires are still locking up when slamming on the brakes.

That would be great if you were able to do that, just let me know how much plus shipping.
I didn’t see the 2nd part of your post as it was after the photo of the harness.
I do think a wire is pinched in the harness.

Jasper,
Congratulations on your through troubleshooting steps, it seems that you are getting your car back where it was before the accident one step at the time, these are great news! :)

I found a rear harness that was already removed from the car and pulled the extra wires from the plug. I'll message you with payment info if you want it. The left side connector does have a partial crack as pictured. I melted the crack back together and it should function fine. I still have another one that I can get off a parts car, but may not have time to do it until next week.

Here's what I'll send. Wiring for both brakes including the yellow plug for reference of where the wires go.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...e1249432_c.jpg

I used a small metal tube (handle section from a broken inspection mirror) to remove the pins from the plug. I'll include it. I think that a small coffee straw might work too. Push it in around the pin, pull the wire out the back.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...5f6fd566_c.jpg

Here's the cracked part of the connector, melted back together.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...00ee69a7_c.jpg

Thank you very much, looking forward to seeing if the cable is the issue.