Quote:
Originally Posted by Quadcammer
thats not very impressive. You should be able to get less rear camber and also even up the toe a bit.
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$5 says he adjusted for corrected toe and thats the best camber you're gonna get. I've had 2 of these cars and aligned 3 different ones... all of them couldn't come close to factory rear camber specs. Both my 986s had new bilstien struts/mounts; so no bent strut issues.
Only thing that comes to mind is spring sag. Clearly, both cars I've owned had whatever weight on them for 20 some years; cause for sag. Maybe with some extra or new springs that camber would be closer, but part of me doubts that a lot.
Might be "squanch" in the chassis like what happens to the front end of mustangs over time. The lower bits are slowly separating causing a non correctable camber issue.
^^^ Those are just food for thought. I have no idea why 3 of 3 boxsters have lots of neg rear camber.
OP: if you plan on racing I have no idea what specs you should run. Most of my "boy racers" that come in with their miata's seem to like toe in .3* rear both sides and -2.5* camber rear; fronts stay 0 toe 7* caster and 3.5* camber. Those guys usually run the local tracks. I figure a Miata is gonna be pretty close to a boxster as far as handling.
If you are driving this as a normal car those numbers will be perfect. Remember there is give and take with the 20 yo rubber bushings and steerage shaft linkages.
IF you really want to change that rear camber you're gonna need to shorten both the lower control arms somehow. Or Dremel out your eccentric slot on the rear lower subframe and get larger eccentric bolts. Seems like a lot of effort IMPO.
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