Alignment help
 

Well I am stoked, got the 986 back in action after complete front suspension refresh including all control arms, struts and strut top mounts, inner/outer tie rods, sway bar bushings, and alignment.

Was about to give up on using my lifetime alignment at firestone, but requested appt. with their best tech (allegedly) and gave him my specs and told him if he could get it close and match each side he would get a nice tip [emoji16]. Rear camber was a little more than I wanted but was not enough adjustment left to get to the -1.5 I was shooting for he claimed. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...c3585a2a11.jpg
But the car has never driven so well, steering is tight now, and would think you were driving a brand new car.

But a buddy with a boxster said while its on the rack you cant get the negative camber right on the rear, weight has to be off then reduce camber and then put on the rack and adjust from there. Initial test drive was great, but was he right on the rear camber, and would this amount contribute to too much tire wear if left as is?


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Those are the numbers I run on rear camber. No negative side effects with either 986 I've had.


With the Hunter machines do two rolling compensations. Thats the trick for cars that derive a lot of steering from the rear axle; like a 986.

thats not very impressive. You should be able to get less rear camber and also even up the toe a bit.

Definitely not for a competent shop, but for Firestone is above average lol.


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It doesn't look bad. If it drives well, then you have nothing to complain about.

$5 says he adjusted for corrected toe and thats the best camber you're gonna get. I've had 2 of these cars and aligned 3 different ones... all of them couldn't come close to factory rear camber specs. Both my 986s had new bilstien struts/mounts; so no bent strut issues.



Only thing that comes to mind is spring sag. Clearly, both cars I've owned had whatever weight on them for 20 some years; cause for sag. Maybe with some extra or new springs that camber would be closer, but part of me doubts that a lot.

Might be "squanch" in the chassis like what happens to the front end of mustangs over time. The lower bits are slowly separating causing a non correctable camber issue.

^^^ Those are just food for thought. I have no idea why 3 of 3 boxsters have lots of neg rear camber.

OP: if you plan on racing I have no idea what specs you should run. Most of my "boy racers" that come in with their miata's seem to like toe in .3* rear both sides and -2.5* camber rear; fronts stay 0 toe 7* caster and 3.5* camber. Those guys usually run the local tracks. I figure a Miata is gonna be pretty close to a boxster as far as handling.

If you are driving this as a normal car those numbers will be perfect. Remember there is give and take with the 20 yo rubber bushings and steerage shaft linkages.

IF you really want to change that rear camber you're gonna need to shorten both the lower control arms somehow. Or Dremel out your eccentric slot on the rear lower subframe and get larger eccentric bolts. Seems like a lot of effort IMPO.

OP, did you do any refreshing on the rear LCAs? You only mention working on the front. You may need to replace the bushings that mount the rear LCAs to the body. These bushings are just like the fronts and when they get old will not let you get to factory specs. They do wear out.

The rears have new struts, drop links, and sway bar bushings, and track arms. May do the rest next year, heard spring sag could contribute also.


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everyone that is paying attention to their car did the trailing links in the rear to get rid of the noisy clump over slow bumps. Replacing the lower control arms shouldn't be overlooked.

I refreshed the suspension on several of my cars, complete. I admit I don't know what was worn, but the "after" changed the car. When I was selling them, I had a couple of Boxster experts remark my car handled like it was new.