Double din install, handbrake cable?

[spongebob]

Just purchased a Sony Double din stereo. Looks like a reasonable straightforward job but some cables will need to be cut as Im ditching the lousy amp in the frunk. The built in 4x45 should be good enough.
Just a question regarding the handbrake connection specified in the manual.
It does not specify the reason for this connection.
What does it do and can I supply 12 v all the time instead of routing the cable to handbrake switch?

[Stl-986]

it's to play videos and no, you can't apply 12+ to it, if you do, you will fry the radio.

dont know the law in sweden, but it's illegal to play videos while driving in most states in the US. If you want to bypass this it's best to search on google on how to do it. Newer systems wont allow the typical way to bypass anymore.

[Cunningr]

I wouldnt cut cables to install amp, I bought an old amp and dissected the connector and made a adapter cable that plug straight into the factory harness. You never know if you sell the car someone might want to go back factory.

[spongebob]

Originally Posted by Cunningr

I wouldnt cut cables to install amp, I bought an old amp and dissected the connector and made a adapter cable that plug straight into the factory harness. You never know if you sell the car someone might want to go back factory.

Thanks, great solution.
Was just thinking of the cable diameter. The existing cables are designed for low level signals to the amp. Are they good enough also for the amplified signal directly to the speakers ?

[Cunningr]

Originally Posted by spongebob

Thanks, great solution.
Was just thinking of the cable diameter. The existing cables are designed for low level signals to the amp. Are they good enough also for the amplified signal directly to the speakers ?

I am running a Alpine 5 channel amp, cant remember the rms at the moment but I haven't had a any issues. Honestly the cab is small so I don't really crank the system, but I am running a separate line to a sub From a 996 cabriole, if I remember that channel is 300 watts rms. I did melt down a pioneer 8” sub driver showing off to my son.

[ike84]

Usually you need to ground the reverse light or hand brake connection in order to bypass the video in motion restriction...or so I've heard.

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[KevinH1990]

I installed a Sony XAV-AX5000 in my wife's Toyota. If you are using the same or similar unit connecting the handbrake cable on the wiring harness to ground, that will take care of that connection.

Check post #14 of this thread if you need to find the reverse signal wire:

http://986forum.com/forums/boxster-general-discussions/51283-does-anyone-know-vss-wire-02-bose.html

I agree with Cunningr - exercise caution in cutting the wiring harness. You never know when you or a later owner will want to update your work.

[Stl-986]

If you are going to use the built in amp in the HU you will need to run new wires to the speakers since the wires to the speakers are wired to the factory amp....or...use the factory amp.

[spongebob]

Originally Posted by Stl-986

If you are going to use the built in amp in the HU you will need to run new wires to the speakers since the wires to the speakers are wired to the factory amp....or...use the factory amp.

Using the factory amp is not going to happen. I believe is the worst part in the system. Will create an adaptor harness of an old amp as suggested here earlier. Realise I will need to pull 8 new speaker cables through the firewall This was what I was trying to avoid by using the old cables that went to the Nokia amp

[ike84]

The frunk amp really isn't that bad, unless you are installing additional speakers. It's a 4 channel, with 2 channels going to front speakers and two to the door subs. Not the best setup but unless you're a true adiophile I'm not sure it's worth the effort. If you're adding additional speakers, that's a different story.

If you really want to improve the overall sound of your system, buy the kit to add rear speakers into the cubby. Totally worth it. You'll need to rework the amplifier situation but there are several ways of doing this that are not at all difficult.

No, the amp built into the head until will not power your speakers. Not even close. You have to have an amp between the head unit and the speakers. I know that all HUs come with built in amps, but it's purely to get a good signal to the real amp.

Where did you get your HU? If you haven't already bought it (or you can return it), buy one from crutchfield. They will do all this work for you for a very reasonable price. I'm a huge diy guy, but that was the best $40 I've ever spent.

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[ike84]

Just saw your last post - out of curiosity why do you think the factory amp is so bad?

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[spongebob]

Originally Posted by ike84

Just saw your last post - out of curiosity why do you think the factory amp is so bad?

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I have tried everything else.
Installed the PNP speakers in 2006, helped a little bit.
New speakers did some but not much, door speakers are original again.
A Becker Indianapolis connected to the amp did not improve situation at all.
Then tried a 996 cabrio amp. Different sound but not better.
But what you are saying is that the 20 year old Nokia amp is better than a new Sony head unit ?on paper same output .
Im not really disagreeing on this but when just checking the weight of the Nokia, there can not be much more in it than the new Sony HU
Not an audiophile at all but should maybe invest in a new amp as well

[Stl-986]

Here is my take on it.

original speakers I believe are 8 ohm (threw all my old ones away so I can't verify). Installing new speakers and using the oem amp is going to cause issues. New speakers are going to be 4 ohm. Quality wouldn't be much a issue, but power will be connecting things up.

The better setup would be to just run rca cables to an aftermarket amp and ditch the factory amp. You could connect the low level wires from the HU to the factory amp to the new amp, but rca cables would be better. It really isn't that difficult and is pretty quick to do. You also dont need to run a turn on wire as there is already one at the HU & amp, just use it.

I am also not a fan of using the Metra or others wiring harness. Not that expensive, but it's just easier & quicker to just cut off the factory connector and wiring things. if you use an afttermarket amp you only need 12+, switched 12+, ground, antenna power, illumination and turn on wire. The rest can be capped off.

What you need to do though is to look at the entire system, your goal, budget, etc and plan accordingly. For example, if you get a HU that only has front/rear rca pairs & a single sub output you need to plan your amp accordioning as well as your wiring. Some amps will have a pass through for connecting a sub amp, some wont. if you only have a single sub output you should connect it to an amp with a splitter so you get the amp to output both left/right for the door speakers. If you want to eventually add the rear speaker tray & speakers, take this into consideration. Wiring isn't that difficult either. You will pay more for HU that has all 6 channels out but it isn't that much more.

There are just so many more options available if you ditch the factory setup when replacing the HU.

When you do want to do the rear speakers let me know I have a kit that is way cheaper then factory.

[spongebob]

Originally Posted by Stl-986

Here is my take on it.

original speakers I believe are 8 ohm (threw all my old ones away so I can't verify). Installing new speakers and using the oem amp is going to cause issues. New speakers are going to be 4 ohm. Quality wouldn't be much a issue, but power will be connecting things up.

The better setup would be to just run rca cables to an aftermarket amp and ditch the factory amp. You could connect the low level wires from the HU to the factory amp to the new amp, but rca cables would be better. It really isn't that difficult and is pretty quick to do. You also dont need to run a turn on wire as there is already one at the HU & amp, just use it.

I am also not a fan of using the Metra or others wiring harness. Not that expensive, but it's just easier & quicker to just cut off the factory connector and wiring things. if you use an afttermarket amp you only need 12+, switched 12+, ground, antenna power, illumination and turn on wire. The rest can be capped off.

What you need to do though is to look at the entire system, your goal, budget, etc and plan accordingly. For example, if you get a HU that only has front/rear rca pairs & a single sub output you need to plan your amp accordioning as well as your wiring. Some amps will have a pass through for connecting a sub amp, some wont. if you only have a single sub output you should connect it to an amp with a splitter so you get the amp to output both left/right for the door speakers. If you want to eventually add the rear speaker tray & speakers, take this into consideration. Wiring isn't that difficult either. You will pay more for HU that has all 6 channels out but it isn't that much more.

There are just so many more options available if you ditch the factory setup when replacing the HU.

When you do want to do the rear speakers let me know I have a kit that is way cheaper then factory.

Thanks, I have the Harvey PNP kit installed, powered directly from the old HU.
Think I will take a stepwise approach on this to see what level that is enough for a decent sound
Sony xav is already in the garage. Will use the low level output to existing 996 cabrio amp. Found a cheap cable for this. New coax in dash but keeping door speakers. Rear kit can be powered from HU I think. These speakers shouldn’t need to be connecter to the frunk amp
If this doesn’t do the trick, an aftermarket 4 channel will be next step along with coax also for the doors.

[Cunningr]

Originally Posted by Stl-986

Here is my take on it.

original speakers I believe are 8 ohm (threw all my old ones away so I can't verify). Installing new speakers and using the oem amp is going to cause issues. New speakers are going to be 4 ohm. Quality wouldn't be much a issue, but power will be connecting things up.

The better setup would be to just run rca cables to an aftermarket amp and ditch the factory amp. You could connect the low level wires from the HU to the factory amp to the new amp, but rca cables would be better. It really isn't that difficult and is pretty quick to do. You also dont need to run a turn on wire as there is already one at the HU & amp, just use it.

I am also not a fan of using the Metra or others wiring harness. Not that expensive, but it's just easier & quicker to just cut off the factory connector and wiring things. if you use an afttermarket amp you only need 12+, switched 12+, ground, antenna power, illumination and turn on wire. The rest can be capped off.

What you need to do though is to look at the entire system, your goal, budget, etc and plan accordingly. For example, if you get a HU that only has front/rear rca pairs & a single sub output you need to plan your amp accordioning as well as your wiring. Some amps will have a pass through for connecting a sub amp, some wont. if you only have a single sub output you should connect it to an amp with a splitter so you get the amp to output both left/right for the door speakers. If you want to eventually add the rear speaker tray & speakers, take this into consideration. Wiring isn't that difficult either. You will pay more for HU that has all 6 channels out but it isn't that much more.

There are just so many more options available if you ditch the factory setup when replacing the HU.

When you do want to do the rear speakers let me know I have a kit that is way cheaper then factory.

This kinda how i went but used a adapter for power into the factory harness, power tweeters with hu amp, rca to alpine amp in frunk, made adapter for speker connect back into dash and doors, ran speaker to sub in footwell. Head unit acts as a DSP mid channel gets balanced on the amp between 3 inch dash and 6.5 inch doors. Low channel sub. I cut none of the factory wiring.

I did run a 6 channel from a cabriolet if you trim a tab plugs in no problem, gives you some balance control, i ran my hertz 6.5 with it fir a while with coaxial in dash. Sounded pretty good.

I think the factory door speakers are 4 ohm wired in parallel for 2 ohms and seems the dash was either 4 or 6 ohm. Fell apart though.

[spongebob]

Originally Posted by Cunningr

This kinda how i went but used a adapter for power into the factory harness, power tweeters with hu amp, rca to alpine amp in frunk, made adapter for speker connect back into dash and doors, ran speaker to sub in footwell. Head unit acts as a DSP mid channel gets balanced on the amp between 3 inch dash and 6.5 inch doors. Low channel sub. I cut none of the factory wiring.

I did run a 6 channel from a cabriolet if you trim a tab plugs in no problem, gives you some balance control, i ran my hertz 6.5 with it fir a while with coaxial in dash. Sounded pretty good.

I think the factory door speakers are 4 ohm wired in parallel for 2 ohms and seems the dash was either 4 or 6 ohm. Fell apart though.

Thanks all for the good support given here, much appreciated.
Just found a set of Hertz woofers that I bought 5 years ago but never became installed.
Could the 6 channel cabrio amp be enough for feeding these ?
Just assuming that the HU to these are a big no-no.

The alternative would be to keep boxster door speaker and amp. This would be the easiest way to avoid cutting in cables.

Third alternative would be to use the door speaker money saved and buy a new amp that can feed the Hertz woofers.

Now to many options and not really sure what would give a reasonable good sound. I do not need the deepest bass tones. Think it will just make every loose part in the car to rattle more than ever

I have two weeks now before I will see the car again, gives plenty of time to source all the cabling alternatives and front speakers. Then when back again, I can test all alternatives above.

[Cunningr]

Originally Posted by spongebob

Thanks all for the good support given here, much appreciated.
Just found a set of Hertz woofers that I bought 5 years ago but never became installed.
Could the 6 channel cabrio amp be enough for feeding these ?
Just assuming that the HU to these are a big no-no.

The alternative would be to keep boxster door speaker and amp. This would be the easiest way to avoid cutting in cables.

Third alternative would be to use the door speaker money saved and buy a new amp that can feed the Hertz woofers.

Now to many options and not really sure what would give a reasonable good sound. I do not need the deepest bass tones. Think it will just make every loose part in the car to rattle more than ever

I have two weeks now before I will see the car again, gives plenty of time to source all the cabling alternatives and front speakers. Then when back again, I can test all alternatives above.

I agree the factory amp will work but not jaw dropping. Albeit depends on what type sound your looking for, with the 6 channel on the four channel set up you can use the fader to adjust the bass mix some. If you just looking for better sound loud enough for cruising it works.

I used a second set of door speaker boxes off ebay to cut up and molded in some .5” mount rings to install the hertz drivers. Plugged it back into factory harness. Door panel fit back over.

[Stl-986]

coax? What do you mean?

[spongebob]

Originally Posted by Stl-986

coax? What do you mean?

Sorry, coaxial speakers

[paulofto]

Originally Posted by spongebob

Sorry, coaxial speakers

So you mean Tannoy style speakers not coax cable......... thanks for clarifying.