Oil change at trusted mechanic vs. Dealership
 

I'm a brand new Porsche Boxster 986 owner (2001 Base, 76k miles). Apologies if this question has been asked a million times before.

I want to get the car's oil changed for a fresh start. Local Porsche dealership quoted me $340 for a straight-up oil change. My normal mechanic, whom I explicitly trust, has saved me tons of money over the years, and has worked on every car I have owned, said he was more than comfortable doing the job. Even said his shop did an oil change on a Porsche a week ago. His price was $75. I've watch the DIY videos on how to do it - it's not difficult (but something I am not going to do myself). Question is...do you think it is OK to use a third-party mechanic for an oil change in a Porsche? Thanks for honest feedback.

An indie is MORE then capable of an oil change

A Porsche is just an automobile.
Any shop or mechanic can change oil on it.
If they can't I wouldn't let them put air in my tires.

Ok, as long as they have a torque wrench... Shots fired, shots fired... LOL

Your indy should have absolutely no issue changing your oil and filter. My only question is weather its too cheap! Verify the oil he's going to use (need synthetic) and that he's aware the car takes about 9 quarts.

I do my own changes and the best I can do is about $60 for the 8 quarts (I use Castrol Edge) and the filter and new crush washer runs me ~ $10.

Our local indy is at about $110.

I do my own oil changes but as long as your guy uses approved oil, filter, crush washer AND knows the proper torque setting for the drain plug, well, $75.00 is a steal.

PS..... make 100% damn sure he doesn’t overfill the oil. It takes a bit of precision and time to ensure the proper fill. The sump rarely empties completely when draining so dumping in 9 quarts without checking the level as you add each quart could lead to overfill.

As I was reading thru the thread I was going to make both points, but no need to since Paul said it perfectly.

I second the concern about the price being too low. As was stated, make sure he knows quantity and quality of oil required. It is actually one the easiest oil changes to do.

thanks
 

Excellent helpful feedback everyone. Thank you!!

I actually already purchased an approved replacement filter, o-ring and crush washer that I intend to give to him just to ensure he uses the correct ones. As far as approved oil, I live in Maryland and I think I am just going to go with whatever is listed in the manual for the temperature of this regional area.

If I could find someone to,do,it that cheap I would be all over that! I’m just wondering what oil he is including with that price?

Yes... but what brand of oil are you going with? That's what everyone wants to know. ;)

Gotta understand that religious wars are safer than discussions here on what oil to use.

Deleted, accidental post

Starter, you’ve been a good boy lately, why are you stirring the s#it now?

I agree $75 sounds way too cheap. I get 2 five QT containers of Mobil 1 SYN 10-40 from Walmart shipped free for 22.37 each, a Mann filter from Amazon for $10.95 and the Porsche dealer in Rockville sells the crush washers for $2.50 which is the cheapest I've been able to find.

Wanted to update everyone. The quote over the phone was a little low. I got it done today and the final tally came to $142. He said he forgot the Porsche engines take 9 quarts of oil. So there ya go. Still pricey, but a heck of a lot better than $340 the local Porsche dealer quoted me. Thanks all!

Boredom. :cool: The car has been down 6 months now.

Car finally goes into the shop May 3 for the Tip repair. Mechanics in the Palm Springs area... then entire Coachella Valley: Weak. No one wants to touch the Tip. Had a few guys who were days away from helping me pull, repair, and reinstall... but their balls shriveled up when they talked to their pals.

I'll be having it towed to Riverside... found a 5 Star guy. Looking forward to getting back on the road.

To really answer your question: I'm getting old and soft. :dance:

DON'T let him willy-nilly put 9 qts in. Have him start checking level after 7. It will probably only take 7.5 to fill. If he just dumps 9 in you'll be overfull, which is just as bad as underfilled. When too full, the oil needs to find a way out, so it will blow out the membrane in your AOS and fill your intake manifold on it's way into the combustion chamber to foul your plugs. On the way out, it will coat your cats and put soot on your exhaust tips.

To paraphrase Pedro Cerrano from 'Major League', it is very bad to overfill your Boxster, very bad!

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1618669329.jpg

Is that really the rule rather than the exception? Mine's always taken pretty close to 9 qts. Is there a lot of variability from one car to the next?

I googled 'Porsche M96 oil capacity'. Pelican says you'll need 7-10 qts. That nailed it down. The next entry said 8.5L. When I convert that to qts, it equals 8.9 qts. So that's probably where everyone comes up with 9Q per oil change. However, that assumes all the oil comes out, which it doesn't.

It's always easier to add oil than remove it.

I just changed mine - I let it drain for 2 full days (on purpose, long story) and then finally filled back up. I stopped at 8 and started the car, oil didn't even register on the dipstick (electronic or manual). Altogether it took almost 10.5 qts to get to 1bar low electronically and full on the dipstick. Crazy sounding, I know, but I swear it's the truth. I've started it several times and ran it hard to bleed the coolant system since then and had no overflow into my catch can.

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I do my own oil changes not difficult. Its a car not a sacred cow. I buy the recommended Mobil 1 at walmart buy 2 5 quart containers and I change it in my driveway. $340 is crazy and dont think the dealers know everything. I could tell you stories.

My first job right out of tech school was at a dealership that carried Porsche.
The way I change my own oil to to put it on the lift right after a ride. Pull the plug and filter and let it drain overnight. Inspect the filter pleats for contamination. The next day add a new quality filter and 9 quarts oil. 9 quarts is spot on on my 986S. You'd be surprised how much extra oil will drip out by leaving it overnight vs 5 to 10 minutes. Most lube racks do not let it drip long enough. Time is money.

When I change oil I weigh the old oil and put in the exact same amount of oil. Easy peasy.. :)

Not being critical, but I would think that would be kind of a headache. And probably kind of messy. No? What container(s) do you weigh it in?

Might be that he meaned 'measure the oil'...

No actually it´s very very easy!

I use this container: https://www.biltema.se/bil---mc/mc/verkstadsutrustning/verktyg/spilloljedunk-bilmc-2000024001

First I weigh myself on a bathroom scale, holding the empty container. I tap the oil straight from the car into the container, then I stand on the bathroom scale again holding the full container.

I now have the weight of the old oil, I calculate the volume in litres and fill up the car with the exact amout.

Super easy!

:dance:

That is an extra step that I would never have considered- you must be an engineer.
I initially add 8 litres of oil and then drive the car. The following morning I check the dipstick and top it off if necessary- it usually takes a mouthful or so- (I'm not an engineer... LOL!).

I feel like I'm being punked here. If you're going to convert to volume anyway, why not simply measure the volume that you removed?

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I guess that works (though I see maytag's point).

I just use the 5 qt containers (two, of course). Pour one in, right off the bat. I’ve got a plastic container with a snap-on lid that originally contained Hot and Sour soup from a local Chinese takeout place. Ran it through the dishwasher and now keep it in the garage, lid on, with my oil change stuff. It holds exactly 1 qt. I’ll pour clean oil from the 2nd 5-qt jug into it til it’s full, then pour nearly all of the rest into the car. Start her up, run it for a minute (looking underneath for possible leaks), then check the level. Add a ‘glug’ or two as needed. Check again. Done.

While I still prefer judicious filling and use of the dipstick, I do salute your devotion to precision! :cheers:

Haha, no Punking.. ;) Measuring would be an extra step, pouring and dripping.. to me this is easy, clean & fast. Previously, to avoid overfilling I poured a little less than expected, waited for the oil to settle, checked level, poured, waited, checked... Now I just pour the exact amount the first time.

Well, thanks for the salute! :cheers:

Well you're welcome!
Around these parts, that and a dollar (or two) will get you a cup of coffee! :D

Dude, are you married? My wife would destroy me if I lugged 10l of motor oil into my bathroom, or took the bathroom scale out to the lab!

Just poking at ya, very interesting approach. The one thing you may want to consider while doing this though it's that all these cars have blowby, and will inherently get some fuel into the oil, throwing of the density of the fluid and your calculations.

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Recently I drug a subframe into my bathroom scale and measured it... My scale my bathroom my house; the wife gets the privilege to live there. :D



Damn ya'll on this forum could mess up a can of chicken noodle soup with overthinking. :cheers:

Just out of curiosity, since the Tip will be out, will you have the IMS/RMS done?

Amen to that.

Just sayin'...........

TO

You can't go by weight!! Old, contaminated oil doesn't weigh the same as fresh oil!

You can't go by volume, either for the same reason! WE'RE ALL F%CKED! AHHHHH!!!


:D:D:D:D

Hah! That's the funniest **************** I've seen on here in a while.

This place is better than some though. Have you ever been to bobistheoilguy before? Lord have mercy they fight religious wars over oil viscosities on a daily basis. And everyone else is wrong, every time lol.

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