Help - Won't Start!

[blue62]

To prevent the possibility of shorting the battery to the frame when removing battery cables you always remove the negative first and replace it last.
Also sparks near any battery acid fumes is not good. Can cause the battery to explode.

[Stl-986]

This could be debated as much as which oil brand is best or which leg goes into your pants first.

Disconnecting the positive cable 1st removes the possibility of a short.

While I do agree, disconnecting the negative cable from the terminal is best practice and the way I do it, it doesn't mean removing positive cable from the terminal 1st is wrong or bad. Removing either cable from the battery removes power to the car.

Back to the issue at hand though, removing positive cable from the battery will not cause a short or cause any electrical issues...ASSUMING the person didn't cause a short while lossening the bolt/nut that secures the cable to the battery (this is why you SHOULD do negative 1st).

My bet is that if anything happened there is a blown fuse somewhere and....we dont have all the information to determine the exact issue, we can only pass on recommendations of what to check as the most likely culprits that COULD be the issue.

The flickering lights described appear to me to be exactly like someone trying to wiggle the cable off the battery (either terminal) and the cable connecting/disconnecting fromt he post as part of this. Sounds perfectly normal to me cause a short would cause lights to NOT work. VERY common on top posts that crimp their sides to the post for ANY car.

[blue62]

Originally Posted by Stl-986

This could be debated as much as which oil brand is best or which leg goes into your pants first.

Disconnecting the positive cable 1st removes the possibility of a short.

While I do agree, disconnecting the negative cable from the terminal is best practice and the way I do it, it doesn't mean removing positive cable from the terminal 1st is wrong or bad. Removing either cable from the battery removes power to the car.

Back to the issue at hand though, removing positive cable from the battery will not cause a short or cause any electrical issues...ASSUMING the person didn't cause a short while lossening the bolt/nut that secures the cable to the battery (this is why you SHOULD do negative 1st).

My bet is that if anything happened there is a blown fuse somewhere and....we dont have all the information to determine the exact issue, we can only pass on recommendations of what to check as the most likely culprits that COULD be the issue.

The flickering lights described appear to me to be exactly like someone trying to wiggle the cable off the battery (either terminal) and the cable connecting/disconnecting fromt he post as part of this. Sounds perfectly normal to me cause a short would cause lights to NOT work. VERY common on top posts that crimp their sides to the post for ANY car.

Yes and if you have ever grounded your wrench to the frame and your wedding ring at the same time while removing the positive first, it will possibly be the last time you do it that way. Don't think the car will suffer though

[mikemcginn7]

Wasn't expecting so many thoughtful replies so quickly. You guys are ultimately the reason why I decided to buy a 986 in the first place, because I believed it when I heard there was a supportive community; thanks for rewarding my faith.

As for the actual issues...yes, I have tried the key in the door lock/unlock method, no luck. My poor, well-intentioned father said the same thing about the order of battery terminal removal not typically making a difference; perhaps I'm too focused on that being the cause. Either way, I've

When I get back to the car, first thing I'll do is pull out the seat / access the immobilizer to see if that fuse is blown. If it is, and anyone has knowledge/recommendations of the removal + fuse replacement process, I'm all ears!

piper6909, the tip about resetting the computer is helpful, thank you; I will give that a shot as well! Perhaps that's what happened in the first place, though, i.e. Dad's attempt to remove the negative terminal of the battery / flickering connection caused a computer reset to some degree.

Our main issue now, though, is getting the frunk open to even access the battery; apparently the levers for front and rear trunk won't budge (consequence of a blown immobilizer fuse?), so again, helpful hints are certainly welcome.

As for the "orange thing" I referenced before, I'm talking about the pop-out fuse box adapter that allows you to pass in 12V to pop the frunk: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1tZ1yUsdq7g

**

Thanks again to everyone; wish I could buy you guys each a beer just for your time (especially you, ike84)! If you ever find yourselves in NYC or Iowa City, IA, shoot me a message!

[blue62]

Originally Posted by mikemcginn7

Wasn't expecting so many thoughtful replies so quickly. You guys are ultimately the reason why I decided to buy a 986 in the first place, because I believed it when I heard there was a supportive community; thanks for rewarding my faith.

As for the actual issues...yes, I have tried the key in the door lock/unlock method, no luck. My poor, well-intentioned father said the same thing about the order of battery terminal removal not typically making a difference; perhaps I'm too focused on that being the cause. Either way, I've

When I get back to the car, first thing I'll do is pull out the seat / access the immobilizer to see if that fuse is blown. If it is, and anyone has knowledge/recommendations of the removal + fuse replacement process, I'm all ears!

piper6909, the tip about resetting the computer is helpful, thank you; I will give that a shot as well! Perhaps that's what happened in the first place, though, i.e. Dad's attempt to remove the negative terminal of the battery / flickering connection caused a computer reset to some degree.

Our main issue now, though, is getting the frunk open to even access the battery; apparently the levers for front and rear trunk won't budge (consequence of a blown immobilizer fuse?), so again, helpful hints are certainly welcome.

As for the "orange thing" I referenced before, I'm talking about the pop-out fuse box adapter that allows you to pass in 12V to pop the frunk: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1tZ1yUsdq7g

**

Thanks again to everyone; wish I could buy you guys each a beer just for your time (especially you, ike84)! If you ever find yourselves in NYC or Iowa City, IA, shoot me a message!

The frunk will not open if the battery is disconnected.
Should be a pull cable behind the right front wheel well liner.
Do a search here on the forum should be info and pictures on cable location

[ike84]

Originally Posted by blue62

The frunk will not open if the battery is disconnected.
Should be a pull cable behind the right front wheel well liner.
Do a search here on the forum should be info and pictures on cable location

You can access that cable from the circuit panel in the driver's footwell. Remove the panel cover and the front of the housing and the cable will be lying at the bottom.

Sent from my POCOPHONE F1 using Tapatalk

[ike84]

Originally Posted by blue62

Yes and if you have ever grounded your wrench to the frame and your wedding ring at the same time while removing the positive first, it will possibly be the last time you do it that way. Don't think the car will suffer though

Oh dang! Luckily 12v and not 120v!

Sent from my POCOPHONE F1 using Tapatalk

[piper6909]

Originally Posted by ike84

Oh dang! Luckily 12v and not 120v!

Sent from my POCOPHONE F1 using Tapatalk

it's not the volts that'll kill you, it's the amps.

[ike84]

Originally Posted by piper6909

it's not the volts that'll kill you, it's the amps.

Hah! You are correct good sir. But just as the fall is not the thing that kills you, how high you fall from determines how hard you hit the ground.

Sent from my POCOPHONE F1 using Tapatalk