Door speaker recommendations?

[clickman]

Hi folks, I'm looking for suggestions to replace the original door speakers in my 2001. I've read through many forum posts and am more confused than ever. Especially since they're apparently 2ohm.

My setup:

• Head unit: Kenwood DDX5706S DDIN (need that volume knob!)
• Amp: original Option M490 replaced with 996 cabrio amp
• Dash speakers: originals replaced with Hertz ECX100.5 4" 4ohm coax
• Rear speakers: Harvey PNP retrofit kit - four 3.5" coax

I don't want to modify the existing speaker box, so I assume that limits me to 5.25". True?

Does the 996 amp have the same cutoff of highs as the old stock amp? If so, coax vs component? Or will the Kenwood controls deal with that?

Thanks!

[Cunningr]

If your wanting a bolt in, Morel makes a 5.25 woofer that would work. The door speakers only have low frequencies so no need for coaxial with that configuration. You could look a parts express as well.

[morgal48]

Assuming you replaced the Haes 4X40 with the Haes 6X40, replacing the door speakers may (will) lead to disappointing results. Both factory amps have a low pass filter set ~50Hz, so you won't hear any frequencies above that threshold. Installing a 5-channel amp and wiring the doors in series will result in 1-ohm door speakers. And more pleasing results.

[KevinH1990]

How do you think this speaker https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-DA135-8-5-1-4-Aluminum-Cone-Woofer-295-330 would sound with a Haes 6X40?

My set up is similar to the original poster and I'm seeking better base response. I'm wondering whether simply improving the quality of the door speakers would meet my needs or should I go all out and add an amp to power a 6.5 inch sub in both doors. When I upgraded the dash speakers, I noticed a huge increase in sound quality and I attributed that to the better construction of the replacement speakers. I understand that a larger speaker would require me to modify the speaker baffles. If anyone needs it, here's a link to a video showing how to remove and replace the door speakers: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NnQY89zBVTw&lc=UgxeWFXmMfGTvIgcOMp4AaABAg.9JkOxOqlJYh9JkTEK10f Sy

[solo118]

Are any of these speakers plug and play? Or do you need special wiring/splicing done?

[Cunningr]

Originally Posted by KevinH1990

How do you think this speaker https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-DA135-8-5-1-4-Aluminum-Cone-Woofer-295-330 would sound with a Haes 6X40?

My set up is similar to the original poster and I'm seeking better base response. I'm wondering whether simply improving the quality of the door speakers would meet my needs or should I go all out and add an amp to power a 6.5 inch sub in both doors. When I upgraded the dash speakers, I noticed a huge increase in sound quality and I attributed that to the better construction of the replacement speakers. I understand that a larger speaker would require me to modify the speaker baffles. If anyone needs it, here's a link to a video showing how to remove and replace the door speakers: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NnQY89zBVTw&lc=UgxeWFXmMfGTvIgcOMp4AaABAg.9JkOxOqlJYh9JkTEK10f Sy

Those speakers are 8 ohms and 85db so not very efficient. I think you need 4 ohm as the stock door speakers with that amp are wired in series run at 2 ohms. I would look for something with a better efficiency rating as well.

[KevinH1990]

Thanks

I had been planning to end my Boxster audio work after adding rear speakers upgrading the dash speakers and installing a double DIN head unit. I added an 8-inch sub in my daily driver and now I think I need a little more bass response in the Boxster. I was hoping for a quick and easy project, but it is likely to be a more complex and costly process to do this right.

[Cunningr]

Originally Posted by KevinH1990

Thanks

I had been planning to end my Boxster audio work after adding rear speakers upgrading the dash speakers and installing a double DIN head unit. I added an 8-inch sub in my daily driver and now I think I need a little more bass response in the Boxster. I was hoping for a quick and easy project, but it is likely to be a more complex and costly process to do this right.

When I did mine it started as a general upgrade then kinda got out of hand. Sounds excellent and I can put all the original pieces back in. I used a pioneer single din
DEP 85 head which has single processing built in it powers dash tweeters the i power upper 3.5 inch dash speakers and 6.5 inch doors and footwell sub with a Alpine amp.
Pioneer has tunable cross over so it splits hid mid and bass outputs on the amp I tune cross over on the channels for upper mid lower mids. I made the sub box from a old bode cabriolet footwell sub. Thin mount 8” driver.

I bought a broken m490 amp to build a wiring harness adaptor to use the stock speaker wiring, then then ran rca cables, and a speaker wire to the woofer. Tweeters are amplified by the head unit so ran a couple wires for those.

Speakers are Hertz Audio.

Ran coaxial speakers in the dash and the 6.5 in the doors in the same setup you have sounded pretty good. But by then I was committed.

[KevinH1990]

What do you think of this woofer: https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-DC160-4-6-1-2-Classic-Woofer-Speaker-295-309

I understand that it would require some modification of the speaker baffle in the door to accommodate, but the instructions for that procedure are readily available. I'm also concerned that it may be a bit too deep to fit. I found a document stating that a speaker 3-inch deep would work, but most of the posts I've seen show the use of speakers about 2.5 inches or less.

I may be grasping at straws to avoid installing an additional amp.

[Cunningr]

Originally Posted by KevinH1990

What do you think of this woofer: https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-DC160-4-6-1-2-Classic-Woofer-Speaker-295-309

I understand that it would require some modification of the speaker baffle in the door to accommodate, but the instructions for that procedure are readily available. I'm also concerned that it may be a bit too deep to fit. I found a document stating that a speaker 3-inch deep would work, but most of the posts I've seen show the use of speakers about 2.5 inches or less.

I may be grasping at straws to avoid installing an additional amp.

Not sure what they sound like but has a better efficiency than the previous one, 4 ohms so should end at 2 ohms installed in both doors. For the price its worth ago.
Not sure on the depth. What I did was buy a couple used boxes off ebay and modified those so I could put it back original. I bought a spacer ring from amazon and cut out the space size then hot glued then fiberglassed around the ring. Drilled holes for air space you might experiment see how they sound if not enough bass drill holes in the back.

[KevinH1990]

I think I will follow your example and experiment with a used speaker enclosure before I start any irreversible work on my car. I found a used enclosure on eBay. It should be here in about a week.

This thread http://986forum.com/forums/diy-project-guides/43919-diy-6-5-inch-door-speakers-using-oem-baffles-2.html has a possible option for using the OEM enclosure without a wood cover.

[Cunningr]

Originally Posted by KevinH1990

I think I will follow your example and experiment with a used speaker enclosure before I start any irreversible work on my car. I found a used enclosure on eBay. It should be here in about a week.

This thread http://986forum.com/forums/diy-project-guides/43919-diy-6-5-inch-door-speakers-using-oem-baffles-2.html has a possible option for using the OEM enclosure without a wood cover.

Yes that was the thread I followed but I bought adaptor rings to use instead of trying to make something.

[KevinH1990]

Do you recall which adapter rings you used?
Thanks

[Cunningr]

Originally Posted by KevinH1990

Do you recall which adapter rings you used?
Thanks

Not sure seems like they were for a mitshibushi. I can check my order history in the morning see if I can find the order.

[KevinH1990]

Does this look like the product that you used?
https://www.amazon.com/2002-2007-Mitsubishi-Lancer-Speaker-Adapter/dp/B016YS6WKI/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2E4C870C8EB9N&dchild=1&keywords=mitsubishi+speaker+adapter&qid=1613831018&sprefix=mitsubishi+spe%2Caps%2C145&sr=8-3

[andys320]

I utilised the mid base/woofer from a pair of Infinity kappa component run directly from standard amp as only lower frequencies go to these speakers.

A worthwhile upgrade for me and cheap as managed to purchase woofers only via ebay.

[KevinH1990]

I have Infinity Kappas in the dash. Using Kappa woofers in the doors like you did may increase the likelihood of compatible sound between the doors and the dash.

[Cunningr]

Originally Posted by KevinH1990

Does this look like the product that you used?
https://www.amazon.com/2002-2007-Mitsubishi-Lancer-Speaker-Adapter/dp/B016YS6WKI/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2E4C870C8EB9N&dchild=1&keywords=mitsubishi+speaker+adapter&qid=1613831018&sprefix=mitsubishi+spe%2Caps%2C145&sr=8-3

It does appear to be the very one! Apologies forgot to check my records yesterday.

[Cunningr]

Originally Posted by KevinH1990

I have Infinity Kappas in the dash. Using Kappa woofers in the doors like you did may increase the likelihood of compatible sound between the doors and the dash.

I had some kappa coaxial i liked then went to a component set of Hertz.

[andys320]

Originally Posted by KevinH1990

I have Infinity Kappas in the dash. Using Kappa woofers in the doors like you did may increase the likelihood of compatible sound between the doors and the dash.

That was my thinking as I also have the Kappa in dash.